ammo lock 2 in QT... Now what? Do I let it cycle?

[jwhiteuwc]

Ok, I had my Hippo tang come down with ICH about 5 days ago, I already have him in HYPO status (1.009) using a refractrometer; Problem is, my QT tank was never setup before hand (yes, lesson learned). Soooo It's going to cycle.
I've used ammo-lock2 to conver the ammonia to less harmful versions, my question is, if the ammonia keeps rising (which I'm sure it will), cuz it's only at .5, do I keep dosing with this stuff? I know it says to only use 3 times before a water change, but 3 times when? When you do reg. water changes as if this is a cycled tank.
I guess what I'm trying to ask is:
1) Do I let the ammonia go through it's process?
a) If I do, the next guy in line is Nitrite, then what?
2) Now that ammonia is less toxic, do I just do bi-weekly water changes, and add ammo lock2 each time, for the 4 weeks, till I can put them back in the display?
Guess I'm stuck.
Ammonia I have ditoxified, but nitrite is just around the corner if I let it go.
?????????????
:help:

 

[elfdoctors]

Ammonia and nitrites are an emergency as these can often kill your fish.
This is part of the reason I encouraged you to make sure your fish had ich before you began treatment. My interest in fish diseases started when I introduced ich into my own tank on a hippo tang. I also had to use an uncycled tank for hyposalinity. I lost 4 out of 6 fish during treatment (primarily from nitrites, in the first week of treatment). Part of the problem was having too many fish in a 20 gallon tank: that was the only treatment tank I had. Once my nitrites and ammonia levels dropped, the fish did well (and the ich was cured with hyposalinity!).
At this point, you actually need to try to prevent your tank from cycling. By this I mean you want to avoid ammonia and nitrite spikes. The only reliable way to do this is to do frequent water changes. (I did 20% water changes daily until my ammonia and nitrites were undetectable.) You have to keep the toxins low. Your tank will eventually cycle anyway and break down the fish wastes.
In summary:
To prevent ammonia and nitrite production:
lightly stock your tank
lightly feed your fish (ammonia and nitrites come from protein)
To enhance removal of ammonia and nitrites:
use a cycled tank
water changes
certain chemical products (like Amquel) or biologic products (bacteria in a bottle)
Good Luck!

 

[jwhiteuwc]

Thanks elfdoctors!
I was thinking just that; I can't let the tank cycle. Just wanted to confirm.
I have a 35 gallon with a baby hippo (2 inch) and 2 Perc clowns in HYPO now. Been doing water changed over other day.
I've definitly learned my leason, I'm going to keep a QT tank cycled from now on in my basement, just in case.
New Question:
I also have a 10 gallon setup for a temorary QT tank for a new Flame angel.
Should I not be leaving NORI or Seaweed selects on a clip in there for him? to reduce ammonia?
Thanks for the help.
I'll keep doing the water changes until I can drop them in my main tank again.
Thanks.

 

[jwhiteuwc]

p.s.
ElfDoctors, just noticed you live in Wisconsin? Where abouts?

 

[elfdoctors]

Flame angels are omnivores. They will eat many foods (occasionally even corals, especially coral slime). They will readily eat algae products. I have one in quarantine myself right now that I got from swf.com. It is a beautiful fish, much bolder then any other fish I have had in my QT. It is also very active. If it leaves my corals alone, it will probably become one of my favorite fishes.
Leaving algae sheets will not reduce ammonia. The nori sheets are rather high in protein (35% for seaweed selects). I would remove the uneaten portion within 4-6 hours, otherwise you may actually increase your ammonia problem. Ammonia (NH3) comes from the breakdown of nitrogen compounds. Most carbohydrates and fats do not have nitrogen in their chemical structures. Protein is the primary cause of nitrogenous wastes. Unfortunately, most fish food is high in protein. Don't feed too heavily! Many people in your situation suction out any uneaten food.
A small hippo and two percs should be fine in a 35. Water changes should take care of your problem. When I got ich, I had two clowns, a hippo, a yellow tang, a strawberry pseudochromis and a six line wrasse. This was too many fish for a 20 gallon uncycled hospital tank. Only the hippo tang and the smaller clown survived. They are still thriving today. I hope that means your fish will survive.
I live in northwest Wisconsin near the Minnesota border. I have chosen to maintain my anonymity. I cannot disclose the small town I live in because it would be simple to identify me if you knew the town. Where are you from?

 

[jwhiteuwc]

Yup, I think my favorite fish just went from my Hippo tang to my Flame Angel... what a amazing fish...
Thanks for the advise.
Yup, just took a look at my Formula one flakes and it's 55.5% Protein...wow!
I'll keep up on the water changes and hope that they all live.
Man is it rough keeping 3 tanks going, 2 of which are not cycled.... Display tank... well that guy is in great shape.
I live in SouthEast Wisconsin.

 

[elfdoctors]

Originally posted by jwhiteuwc
Man is it rough keeping 3 tanks going, 2 of which are not cycled....
Been there.
After you are done hyposalinity and the tank is cycled it becomes a lot easier. I simply remove water from my QT and discard it. I then take water from my display and move it into a QT so that their chemistries should be equal. I only add freshly mixed SW to my display. The care for the extra tank then takes minimal extra time.