Anemone dead or dying?
- Thread starter mrmax
- Start date
mrmax
New Member
Lighting is anywhere from 3-4 watts per gallon.
Parameters:
Nitrite:0
Nitrate:30-40
Ammonia:activated carbon
Alkalinity:300-350
Ph:8.0-8.2
Temp:79-80
The anemone looked fine when I left the house this morning and when I came home it had green things all over the foot, I was told these were its insides by my LFS. I have not even had the anemone for a week. Any suggestions?
Thanks [@]tthemadd1[/@]
Parameters:
Nitrite:0
Nitrate:30-40
Ammonia:activated carbon
Alkalinity:300-350
Ph:8.0-8.2
Temp:79-80
The anemone looked fine when I left the house this morning and when I came home it had green things all over the foot, I was told these were its insides by my LFS. I have not even had the anemone for a week. Any suggestions?
Thanks [@]tthemadd1[/@]
flower
Well-Known Member
The API kit, as it has been explained to me, reads 4Xs higher then what other kits read...so 40 isn't really 40.
Anemones don't do well in new tanks, a 6 month maturity is recommended...they just don't handle change very well, and new tanks go through all kinds of changes that first year.
Anemones don't do well in new tanks, a 6 month maturity is recommended...they just don't handle change very well, and new tanks go through all kinds of changes that first year.
tthemadd1
Active Member
Test strips are not great. Good for fish not for reef. Get lab test kit they are sold on this site and others.
Ammonia concerns me based on fish load and minimal bacteria. Ammonia is a killer and will kill an anemone quick. Activated carbon will lower the ammonia but does not allow nitrifying bacteria to meet the bioload.
I'm going to assume the all test is actually calcium.
You will easily find out if the LFS is reputable if they will take the anemone back until the tank is ready.
I also feel your lighting is not sufficient for anemones. Are they T5, PC, LED, or Metal Halides? 10k actinics? Etc? Watts per gallon doesn't tell me much total watts helps or better yet the brand and model
Ammonia concerns me based on fish load and minimal bacteria. Ammonia is a killer and will kill an anemone quick. Activated carbon will lower the ammonia but does not allow nitrifying bacteria to meet the bioload.
I'm going to assume the all test is actually calcium.
You will easily find out if the LFS is reputable if they will take the anemone back until the tank is ready.
I also feel your lighting is not sufficient for anemones. Are they T5, PC, LED, or Metal Halides? 10k actinics? Etc? Watts per gallon doesn't tell me much total watts helps or better yet the brand and model
flower
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmax http:///t/396592/anemone-dead-or-dying#post_3533853
It is not an API kit. They are test strips. So they are not accurate?
Hi,
Strips are only useful when checking ammonia...any reading at all, and it's time for action. Like tthemadd1 said...you need lab kits, but I would get my own, and never trust any LFS for testing my water. The water quality is the very life of your fish tank, and you need your own test kits. API reads high, I use SeaChem myself, all tests come with a regent to be able to double check for accuracy.
Anemones need the brightest, strongest light possible to obtain, unless it a long tentacled tube anemone. They are nocturnal, and need 0 light, they are beautiful and have their own glow.
A little about keeping anemones:
Originally Posted by mrmax http:///t/396592/anemone-dead-or-dying#post_3533853
It is not an API kit. They are test strips. So they are not accurate?
Hi,
Strips are only useful when checking ammonia...any reading at all, and it's time for action. Like tthemadd1 said...you need lab kits, but I would get my own, and never trust any LFS for testing my water. The water quality is the very life of your fish tank, and you need your own test kits. API reads high, I use SeaChem myself, all tests come with a regent to be able to double check for accuracy.
Anemones need the brightest, strongest light possible to obtain, unless it a long tentacled tube anemone. They are nocturnal, and need 0 light, they are beautiful and have their own glow.
A little about keeping anemones:
- All intake tubes and power heads need to be covered, no matter the type of anemone, they follow the water flow, and get sucked up...poisoning and polluting the tank as they die.
- All anemones eat (anything dumb enough to get too close) and what they don't eat, they sting to death.
They need very stable water conditions, they don't handle changes well at all...poor water quality is certain death.
You can't place an anemone, they go where they want. A moving/roaming anemone is an unhappy anemone.
flower
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmax http:///t/396592/anemone-dead-or-dying#post_3533863
It is a long tentacle anemone. So does that mean by me having my light on during the day it got hurt?
Long tentacle Tube anemone is the one that needs no special lighting. They also need a 4 inch sand bed, they like to bury their tube in the sand, although mine liked the rocks.
Almost forgot to mention, a clownfish will not wallow in a tube anemone.
Originally Posted by mrmax http:///t/396592/anemone-dead-or-dying#post_3533863
It is a long tentacle anemone. So does that mean by me having my light on during the day it got hurt?
Long tentacle Tube anemone is the one that needs no special lighting. They also need a 4 inch sand bed, they like to bury their tube in the sand, although mine liked the rocks.
Almost forgot to mention, a clownfish will not wallow in a tube anemone.