anemone lighting

[keish24]

i have a rbta. i have had it about 4 months. i had pc lights but i finally got a nova extreme pro t5 fixture a couple of weeks ago. i had been running my pc lights from 7am to 7 pm and there was a little algea growth but not much. since i started running my t5 lights the algea has gotten worse. its not terrible but still more then i would like. i am running the t5s from 8am to 7pm. how much lighting time can i cut back to and still provide enough for my rbta?

 

[subielover]

The lighting is not the problem. You have excess nutrients in the tank. I would suggest cutting back on feeding. What fish do you have in the tank? What size is it and what do you use for filtration? What are your nitrates and phosphates?

 

[spanko]

Yeah, what Subie said!

 

[keish24]

i have 1 false perc clown, 1 molly, and 1 coral beauty angel. nitrates are about 10 and phosphates are .25. the tank is a 55 gal and i have 75lbs of live rock, live sand, and i also have 2 emporer 400 biowheel filters.

 

[fragglerock]

Are you using R/O water?
Tap water, even treated, can cause algae issues as can lighting.
In your T5 fixture, are the bulbs brand new or used?
Also, nitrates can accumulate without a skimmer and I do not see one listed. I'd start there for my issue...
I use 12 hours of full lighting on my T5HO unit over my RBTA.
I do still not feel it is sufficient.

 

[keish24]

i use ro/di water that i get out of a machine at our local grocery store. my t5 fixture has new bulbs in it. i do have a skimmer. i only run it a couple of hours a day though. should i be running my skimmer more?

 

[subielover]

I would also pick up some rowaphos. You shouldn't have phosphates, have you checked for phospates before mixing the salt in?

 

[kaingers]

You should run your skimmer 24/7 for it to be effective. I think your 11 hour light cycle IS a factor in your algae problem. RBTA's are not a light demanding species. I have my halide on for 7.5 hours over my GBTA, and it does fine. IMO your light schedule including dawn and dusk should not exceed 10 hours.

 

[happitylogan]

Originally Posted by kaingers
http:///forum/post/2891487
You should run your skimmer 24/7 for it to be effective. I think your 11 hour light cycle IS a factor in your algae problem. RBTA's are not a light demanding species. I have my halide on for 7.5 hours over my GBTA, and it does fine. IMO your light schedule including dawn and dusk should not exceed 10 hours.
+1, I think 10hrs is the max too, thats how I run all my tanks

 

[shrimpi]

you are most likely overfeeding or something to have phosphates.
What is your feeding schedule and what do you feed?
do you have a cleanup crew?
How often are you doing water changes?
Jess

 

[rod buehle]

Originally Posted by kaingers
http:///forum/post/2891487
You should run your skimmer 24/7 for it to be effective. I think your 11 hour light cycle IS a factor in your algae problem. RBTA's are not a light demanding species. I have my halide on for 7.5 hours over my GBTA, and it does fine. IMO your light schedule including dawn and dusk should not exceed 10 hours.

10 hrs too much???!?! I wonder how long the sun is up on the equator.
Phosphates above .04 _Can_ lead to algae issues. .25 will certainly. Not having a good skimmer running 24/7 will lead to detritus build up and then phosphates.
Nitrates will also cause issues. Any filter that has oxygen rich water passing over it will harbor aerobic bacteria (oxygen rich), which is excellent for FO tanks, because it is superior at converting ammonia>nitrIte>nitrAte and thats where it stops. For reef tanks which require low nitrates, we need anaerobic bacteria (low oxygen). Anerobic bacteria will take the nitrifacation cycle one step further by converting the nitrate in to a harmless gas that will pass of into the atmosphere (ammonia>nitrIte>nitrAte>harmless gas.) Anerobic bacteria colonize in live rock and deep sand beds (low oxygen areas) Both of these bacteria compete for the same food source. trying to harbor both types of bacteria (mechanical filtration and live rock) will allow neither to reach their full potential. Therefore (if you have enoug rock) removing the filter will lower the nitrates.
Lighting is not the problem.
Lets use a radio as an example ( I thinkI read this in TRA vol 1 by Charles Delbeek and Julian sprung)
Power button =nutrients(phosphate, nitrate)
volume = Lighting
Sound heard = Algea
If you dont turn the power (nutrients) on the radio, you can turn the volume (lighting) as high as you want but still wont hear anything (algae). but once you turn on the power, the volume button will make lots of sound.
I hope this makes sense.
FWIW in the summer I run my halides for 13-14 hours, and cut it back to 10 -12 in the winter.

 

[rod buehle]

Originally Posted by keish24
http:///forum/post/2891404
i use ro/di water that i get out of a machine at our local grocery store. my t5 fixture has new bulbs in it. i do have a skimmer. i only run it a couple of hours a day though. should i be running my skimmer more?
Investing in a good RO/di will save you lots in the long run.. LOTS.. Not only that, but I have tested a few of the machines around here, and they are not always teh best. They dont change their filters often enough. I have seen TDS readings from Wal-mart of well over 100 TDS .. OK to drink, but not good enough for our reefs.

 

[keish24]

Originally Posted by Shrimpi
http:///forum/post/2892411
you are most likely overfeeding or something to have phosphates.
What is your feeding schedule and what do you feed?
do you have a cleanup crew?
How often are you doing water changes?
Jess
i feed my fish every other day. i usually feed them a pellet food and every once in a while i feed a flake food. i have a clean up crew consisting of lots of snails, a few hermits, a few emerald crabs, and a sally lightfoot crab. i do a 10 gal water change every other week.

 

[keish24]

ok....the test kit i had been using was old. i got new test kits and my nitrates and my phosphates are 0. i tested the water i was getting from the grocery store and it also tests as 0.
Nitrates will also cause issues. Any filter that has oxygen rich water passing over it will harbor aerobic bacteria (oxygen rich), which is excellent for FO tanks, because it is superior at converting ammonia>nitrIte>nitrAte and thats where it stops. For reef tanks which require low nitrates, we need anaerobic bacteria (low oxygen). Anerobic bacteria will take the nitrifacation cycle one step further by converting the nitrate in to a harmless gas that will pass of into the atmosphere (ammonia>nitrIte>nitrAte>harmless gas.) Anerobic bacteria colonize in live rock and deep sand beds (low oxygen areas) Both of these bacteria compete for the same food source. trying to harbor both types of bacteria (mechanical filtration and live rock) will allow neither to reach their full potential. Therefore (if you have enoug rock) removing the filter will lower the nitrates.
so are you saying that i shouldnt be running a biowheel filter but instead have only my live rock and live sand as my filtration? i have 75lbs of live rock....should that be enough?