Anemones and Light

oyam1

oyam1

Member
everyone was telling me that anemones need so much light.
had LTA under 96w CP and was doing ok.
now in my 72 i got BTA (had LTA, dead now).
i got 175w x 2 MH and 65w x 2 Actinic CP.
all the anemones do now is run away from the light, the LTA took off x2 and finally is dead.
WHATS GOING ON!!!!
to much light now?
i got all this light for them, now what???
:thinking:
 
viper_930

viper_930

Active Member
They going into the shady areas? That is a sign of a bleached anemone, they often hide away from light until their zooxanthelae slowly grows back. Got a pic of them?
 
oyam1

oyam1

Member
the long tent is dead (it was very white)
the BTA is eating ant seeme to be doing better its green with white specks and a orange base.
i have photos, but the sight say file to large?
the percs are not taking to it.
they were in a 40 hex with a large LTA and one was in it all the time, to bad the powerhead got it

do you think the clown will like other type of anemone?
the BTA is still small little larger than 50c coin.
got 72gal with
2-percs
1-flame
1-longnose butterfly
1-midas blenny
1-manderin goby
3-clown gobys
 
viper_930

viper_930

Active Member
here's the pic of the anemone you sent me. I'll email the rest back to you resized so you can post them if you like.
 
T

thomas712

Guest
Doesn't look great.
Give us some water specs.
Did it look like that when you got it?
How long did it take to look like that.
What kind of MH bulbs are you using?
Thomas
 
oyam1

oyam1

Member
its a bad photo of it, it just got done eating not long before the photo.
it gets big and then small like dime size or less.
last labs i did show all in line for water quality.
but Ph is a bit low 7.8-7.9
 
T

thomas712

Guest
Well correct me if I'm wrong but it has white spotted tenticals, deflated stem, and looks as if it were in a bleaching process.
could just be my eyes.
 
viper_930

viper_930

Active Member
Good point with the deflated stem, I can't believe I missed that! It could be from the eating, mine does that every other meal or so. The white spots could be the natural color of the anemone, though I haven't seen one like that, but I don't know anything else that could cause it.
 
T

thomas712

Guest
Most bleached anemones that I have seen seem to shorten there stem, so even though I'm guessing, I am simply taking it into account, the possiblility.
As to whether it is in progress or regression I'm not sure. There should be enough lighting.
Another possiblility is too much light at once.
Oyam1
What is the current photo period for the BTA?
When did it first show signs of the white spotting?
What are you feeding it?
PH a bit low, and I know it can affect BTA's, you might check and post your alkalinity level, I suspect it may be a bit low.
Thomas
 
oyam1

oyam1

Member
run actinics 12h and MH 6-7h QD
feed shrimp
came with the spots
had it for about 20 days $16
ill try for better photo (side) this eve.
thanx
 
T

thomas712

Guest
What is anemone ‘bleaching’?
All healthy anemones have a population of zooxanthellae in their body tissues that helps provide nutrients to the host anemone. This algae population is brown in color, and all healthy anemones will have an underlying color tone of light to dark brown depending upon the intensity of lighting under which they are kept, and the size of their zooxanthellae population. In cases of stress or poor water conditions, the zooxanthellae population in an anemone can die or be expelled. This condition is called “bleaching” since a healthy, dark colored anemone can become light and pale overnight. Bleached anemones are white or translucent in color, and lack the noticeable brown undercoloring of healthy anemones. The lack of zooxanthellae puts an anemone at significant health risk, since it no longer has a substantial source of nutrients. However, even badly stressed and bleached anemones can recover if placed in a stable, healthy environment. Daily feedings and appropriate light conditions will help the animal to rebuild its zooxanthellae population and reacquire its normal tan/brownish color over time. This process may take a while – three months is not unusual.
Clear as mud now?
Thomas
 
T

thomas712

Guest
Stray Voltage in Saltwater Aquariums (just a cut and paste folks)
How To Identify, Locate and Solve Stray Voltage Problems
Whenever electric appliances are used in close proximity to saltwater aquariums, the potential for problems increases dramatically. Fortunately for most saltwater aquarists, a vast majority of equipment used in conjunction with an aquarium is of high quality and seldom fails. However, when an appliance does fail and leaks electricity into a tank, it is called "stray voltage".
Stray voltage, even in small amounts, can cause a number of subtle or dramatic problems in an aquarium.
HLLD (Head and Lateral Line Erosion Disease) - Anecdotal evidence in aquariums as well as observations of fish in close proximity to hydroelectric dams have indicated that stray voltage could be a possible cause of HLLD in fish.
Sudden Death of Tank Inhabitants - Many aquarists have tested for voltage leaks in their tanks after experiencing a sudden and otherwise inexplicable loss of fish in their tanks and found that a faulty appliance used in conjunction with their tank was the cause.
Unusual Behavior of Tank Inhabitants - When continuos strange behavior such as a rapid and jerky swimming pattern or frequent quivering of tank inhabitants is observed, many aquarists have discovered that the cause was stray voltage.
How To Test for Stray Voltage
Purchase or borrow a voltage meter. They can generally be found for less than $20 at most automotive parts or hardware store.
Turn the selector to "120 AC Voltage".
Insert the tip of the black probe into the third or "grounding" hole in an electrical outlet.
Insert the metal tip of the red probe into the tank water.
Watch the meter needle for any movement. Any needle movement indicates a voltage leak in your system.
How To Identify the Voltage Leak Source
One at a time, disconnect each electrical appliance (heaters, pumps, lights, chiller) associated with your tank, retesting for voltage as described above after each unit is disconnected. Heaters and pumps (powerheads) are the most frequent cause of voltage leaks.
How To Solve the Voltage Leak
Replace (recommended) or repair the faulty unit. Test the tank once again to make sure that you have eliminated the problem.
Install a simple grounding probe in the tank to avoid damage to the tank inhabitants. This may temporarily take care of the symptoms of stray voltage, but it does not cure the cause of the problem.
Many aquarists test their tanks for stray voltage on a regular basis as a part of their normal tank maintenance routine. Detecting a voltage leak problem in its early stages can help eliminate or reduce problems in the future.
By the way you should have a GFCI in your outlet, it could save your life.
Thomas
 
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