Another stupid question..

jrse7en

Member
I need a glass cover for my 55g, I guess 2 24" ones would work but i'm not sure what I need. I'm running a Corallife Pro fixture with 2 metal halides. I'm afraid to order the glass covers w/ the little strip of rubberish plastic between the glass pieces for the lid. Will the halides get hot enough to melt this or not. Do I have any options?
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by Jrse7en
http:///forum/post/3126302
I need a glass cover for my 55g, I guess 2 24" ones would work but i'm not sure what I need. I'm running a Corallife Pro fixture with 2 metal halides. I'm afraid to order the glass covers w/ the little strip of rubberish plastic between the glass pieces for the lid. Will the halides get hot enough to melt this or not. Do I have any options?

You can't cover your tank with glass, it will cause a green house effect and cook it...get some egg crate and cover it with a mesh (screen material) to keep fish from jumping...it will not melt...the lights shouldn't be that close to the water surface.
However if it is...you can put a slat of glass the exact size of the MH bulbs right under the light and the egg crate around that...this I what I do...I have retrofit lights and no glass to protect the bulbs.
 

jrse7en

Member
Kk my fixture has a small piece of glass that covers each light but they advise to keep the tank covered to prevent any splashing or anything like that. I dont want to risk messing up this fixture since it was fairly expensive. Home Depot eggcrate works. Also for the netting what sort of material works?
 

jrse7en

Member
Am I supposed to adhere some normal screen mesh to the eggcrate? Just lift it off for feeding and such?
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by Jrse7en
http:///forum/post/3127765
Am I supposed to adhere some normal screen mesh to the eggcrate? Just lift it off for feeding and such?

You got it...use super glue gel on the edges of the egg crate to attach it. Strips of glass just under the MH light fixture. Do not use the tinted mesh and make sure it is the plastic stuff. You will have to constantly clear away the salt creep on both.
If you are handy... make a canopy top that sits higher and avoid allot of grief. I would make it at least 12 inches with doors to service the tank...I am not handy, but when I get some spare cash...I am going to have a handyman make me one.
 

jackri

Active Member
You want glass on your halide lighting -- the lights themselves. That serves two purposes... protects against splashing and popping your bulbs.. and protects your tank from UV from the halides. I run open tops on both my tanks -- but I don't have any jumpers to worry about.
Open tops also provide gas exchange which is beneficial to your tank. Egg crate is the next best option if you're worried about jumping fish.
 

gio28

Active Member
i agree..always keep an open top. IMO eggcrate will diffuse more light than netting would. i would go buy pond netting and use that since it will not diffuse the light and keep jumpers in the tank. if you dont have any jumpers then i dont see why you need a lid at all. if your halides dont have any glass protecting them...they definitely need it like jackri and flower said.
 

jrse7en

Member
I'm gonna use the pond netting and eggcrate. I did my wet test this weekend with all electrical equipment running this weekend. I couldnt be any happier with my setup aside from the skimmer. I have a Vertex IN-100 and it sounds as if a rock is stuck in the impeller its pretty loud. This morning I ran down to the basement because it sounded like the return pump had been running dry and was burning out. It was pretty obnoxious but the dreadful sound went away. I'm gonna work on draining the tank and mounting all of the electrical this week. I'll post up some pictures later.
 

spanko

Active Member
Double ended Metal halide bulbs usually have a pc. of UV glass that comes with your fixture. This is to filter UV and to protect the bulb from water splashes.
Single ended bulbs usually do not come with a pc. of glass in the fixture. Their UV protection is built into the bulb. However they do also need to be protected from splashing water so a pc. of glass in is order.
On the pond netting top.....



There is also a corner connector made from vinyl that I cannot find a picture of but look like these metal ones.

And of course the 3/8" pond netting.

I used 3/8 inch and double layered it. I had it single layered but my first yellow Head Jawfish jumped right through it. So now instead of one layer of a 3/8 inch square opening in the net i have the two layers crossed so that the square is a box with a X in it. You can see what I mean in the picture.

You can order 1/4" pond netting on line, however I did not only because I did not know if the fish would still be able to launch itself through the square hole. I was really surprised one day when my wife had my 2 year old granddaughter call me at work and tell me that the new jawfish was all dried up on the carpet!
all the supplies were from Lowe's except the pond net. They may even have that. Wish you were closer I would give you some. You could make a lot of covers from one package.
Don't have a full pic of mine but here is one another reefer made from the plans I gave him.

If you have a square tank it will be much easier because we had to trim for the bow front of the 29 biocube.
 

jrse7en

Member
^ I love this idea and it looks great. I'll look around Lowe's and Home Depot this weekend for frame material. I have an Overflow box in one corner of the tank and my return tube in the other, so modifications would need to be made to accomadate both.
 
Top