Anyone hear of this Ich Medication?

sepulatian

Moderator
Originally Posted by CAM78
AP Quick Cure. AKA Aquarium Products. Any reviews?
Yes I have, it is very harsh. It contains a strong amount of Malechite green. It is not suitible for many fish. I would not use it on cichlids let alone a salt water fish. AP stands for Aquarium Pharmaceuticals.
 

ophiura

Active Member
Not just malachite green, but a good amount of formalin too. It is an excellent way to cause problems real fast.
 
B

bellaroxio

Guest
Originally Posted by CAM78
Suggestions on what I should use then? Maybe ich and/or parasites.
remove all carbon from you system. 1 drop/2 gal (half the suggested amount). Non of my soft corals were hurt. Ich was going away (or hibernate) until I decided to QT.
At LFS, very reputable and has been in business for 20 years with a 18-day warantee of their livestocks, quick cure is their way of treating ich....
 

al mc

Active Member
Cam...I would not use it. If you can not do a QT/HT with Hyposalinity or
copper (do hypo, it is safer) and have to use an additive, use the Kick-Ich.
The metronidazole that is the active ingredient is safer than malachite green and formalin in my opinion. It will not eliminate the ICH, in my opinion, but will help decrease the population. In addition, lowering stress by keeping good water parameters and removing any 'agressive' inhabitant would be additional good adjunct therapies.
 

cam78

Active Member
Originally Posted by bellaroxio
remove all carbon from you system. 1 drop/2 gal (half the suggested amount). Non of my soft corals were hurt. Ich was going away (or hibernate) until I decided to QT.
At LFS, very reputable and has been in business for 20 years with a 18-day warantee of their livestocks, quick cure is their way of treating ich....
Are we talking about the same stuff? It is not reef safe as far as I know. I have a QT I will be using it in.
 

1journeyman

Active Member
Using a medication with Malachite Green in your display is a great way to wipe out your biological filtration and to stain your silicone permanently.
 
B

bellaroxio

Guest
Originally Posted by 1journeyman
Using a medication with Malachite Green in your display is a great way to wipe out your biological filtration and to stain your silicone permanently.
note I wrote 1 drop/2 gal. Half the dosage. In my 600 gal tank, NOT ONE soft coral died. Either that or voodo magic!
 

sepulatian

Moderator
Originally Posted by bellaroxio
note I wrote 1 drop/2 gal. Half the dosage. In my 600 gal tank, NOT ONE soft coral died. Either that or voodo magic!
Bella, I understand that it worked for you, but formalin and malachite are not "safe" in any dose to a reef or for any inverts. Medications need to be used for a specific amount of time at their recomended dosage to work at all. I have used malachite on FW fish for ich. I used to think that it was working. The ich always came back whenever I did a water change or added a new fish. This was long before I read up about diseases and their treatments. I don't think it was the malachite at all that was helping. I think it may have kept it off of the fish for a short while and their immune system helped the rest of the way. There are only two things that are proven to kill ich. They are hyposalinity or copper. Neither can be done with inverts because ich is an invert. Any medication that claims to be invert safe will not kill ich. You cannot kill one invert without killing them all.
 

ophiura

Active Member
Quick cure is playing with fire in a reef tank. If you go over a magic dosage, you WILL kill the inverts in the tank. Formalin is a common preservative for scientific specimens...except for the nasty possible side effects on humans.
 

cam78

Active Member
Maybe I didn't make myself clear. I have a QT tank that I just set up. I will put any medications inside there only. What should I do or use?
 

ophiura

Active Member
If you have ick, I would recommend a full course of hypo. If that won't work for you, than copper treatment. For hypo you need a refractometer, for copper you need a copper test kit.
Both of these methods, IMO, are safer options.
 

sepulatian

Moderator
Originally Posted by ophiura
If you have ick, I would recommend a full course of hypo. If that won't work for you, than copper treatment. For hypo you need a refractometer, for copper you need a copper test kit.
Both of these methods, IMO, are safer options.
I completely agree. You can do what you want, but I ask you to take a look in the common treatments FAQ at the top of disease and treatment. There are only two methods that are proven to kill ich. They are copper and hypo. There is also a list of other meds that people have tried. They are all posts from members here. We do not make this stuff up as we go along. Quick cure or any other "miracle cure" will not kill ich. Do yourself and your fish a favor and just hypo them.
 

cam78

Active Member
I am considering hypo. Will that kill any parasite the fish might have or just ich? Also can you post a link on how to do it?
 

sepulatian

Moderator
Originally Posted by CAM78
I am considering hypo. Will that kill any parasite the fish might have or just ich? Also can you post a link on how to do it?
This link is for Beth's common treatments FAQ which is the first one at the top of the disease and treatment board. https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/127007/faqs-fish-diseases-treatments-quarantine-health-info
Scroll down and you will find lots of info. If you have more questions, please do not hesitate to ask. Hypo is ment for sw ich, but it will kill off other parasites such a a variety of worms. There are not SW parasites or diseases that can live in FW. This is a drop to brackish which will kill a lot of prasites. If you encounter any other parasite, please let us know. We will tell you how to treat it.
 

cam78

Active Member
The problem is this.....Quick story.
Bought a Butterfly, started scratching and wiggling, saw a small white spot ontop of its back fin. Brought it back to LFS where he put it in a QT for me. It died.
Few days later my Diamond Goby starts twitching and scratching. Take him out and brought him to LFS for treatment which is going well. Seems to be doing a lot better. Didn't see any spots or anything.
I don't know what the fish have so that is the reason for my question.
 

sepulatian

Moderator
Originally Posted by CAM78
The problem is this.....Quick story.
Bought a Butterfly, started scratching and wiggling, saw a small white spot ontop of its back fin. Brought it back to LFS where he put it in a QT for me. It died.
Few days later my Diamond Goby starts twitching and scratching. Take him out and brought him to LFS for treatment which is going well. Seems to be doing a lot better. Didn't see any spots or anything.
I don't know what the fish have so that is the reason for my question.
If you do not quarantine your fish then I am willing to bet that ich is in your system. Just pull your fish out and hypo them. Leave the display fishless for at least 6 weeks.
 

ophiura

Active Member
Originally Posted by sepulatian
I completely agree. You can do what you want, but I ask you to take a look in the common treatments FAQ at the top of disease and treatment. There are only two methods that are proven to kill ich. They are copper and hypo. There is also a list of other meds that people have tried. They are all posts from members here. We do not make this stuff up as we go along. Quick cure or any other "miracle cure" will not kill ich. Do yourself and your fish a favor and just hypo them.

I disagree slightly. Quick cure is not as sketchy as other medications that have no known active ingredient on the "miracle cure" scale. On the contrary, the effects of malachite green and formalin are very well known and they are used as tried and true treatments for many things.
However, the possible risks (and they are significant) to both fish, inverts and humans - make it a far less desirable treatment choice, IMO, than hypo and copper.
You would not want to use formalin on fish with any chance or indication of open wounds. Both malachite green and formalin are pretty significant risks to humans if mishandled.
So when you compare overall treatment success, availability to hobbyists and safety concerns...hypo and copper (and hypo specifically) are much better bets, IMO.
 
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