angler man
Member
Okay, this is my next purchase, but I must learn your Jedi ways first. One of our LFS's will not carry them because they can't keep them alive.
ATTN: Successful yellow leather owners
- Thread starter angler man
- Start date
angler man
Member
Great input! Any other yellow Leather Jedi's out there?
A
alexmir
Guest
Are you talking about a yellow fiji leather? I got mine about 2 weeks abo, its about 6 inches tall and the rullfes are about 8 inches across. It wasnt looking to great at the LFS but i had wanted one for a very long time, so i figured i would save it. It has been doing fantastic, i have it in pretty strong flow for now, its been shedding the waxy layer, so now its on an alternating socket.
Very pretty coral, its about 4 inches from the top of the water. I have 2 96 watt compact flourescent over my 60 gal bowfront.
Very pretty coral, its about 4 inches from the top of the water. I have 2 96 watt compact flourescent over my 60 gal bowfront.
angler man
Member
Mike,
Yellow Fiji leather. Are these dyed as well? Is there a surefire way to tell?
Alexmir,
Did you buy a PH specifically for your leather? How much flow are you putting on it? How bright is yours?
Yellow Fiji leather. Are these dyed as well? Is there a surefire way to tell?
Alexmir,
Did you buy a PH specifically for your leather? How much flow are you putting on it? How bright is yours?
michaeltx
Moderator
the fiji yellow leathers are a golden yellow color if its a neon or super bright or called rare pass on it. if the color seems unatural to what you see on soft corals in general pass on it. if you dont see it opened up pass. those are the basics corals come in bright colors but if they look unnaturally bright there is something wrong usually it means they are dyed with the exception of carnations and very few others.
mike
mike
angler man
Member
Originally Posted by MichaelTX
http:///forum/post/2460797
the fiji yellow leathers are a golden yellow color if its a neon or super bright or called rare pass on it. if the color seems unatural to what you see on soft corals in general pass on it. if you dont see it opened up pass. those are the basics corals come in bright colors but if they look unnaturally bright there is something wrong usually it means they are dyed with the exception of carnations and very few others.
mike
Thanks for that tidbit of info! I feel so smart now, like I can take on the 1st grade again, and this time pass!
http:///forum/post/2460797
the fiji yellow leathers are a golden yellow color if its a neon or super bright or called rare pass on it. if the color seems unatural to what you see on soft corals in general pass on it. if you dont see it opened up pass. those are the basics corals come in bright colors but if they look unnaturally bright there is something wrong usually it means they are dyed with the exception of carnations and very few others.
mike
Thanks for that tidbit of info! I feel so smart now, like I can take on the 1st grade again, and this time pass!
angler man
Member
Now that's what I'm talking about!
How long have you had it?
How long have you had it?
puffer32
Active Member
Originally Posted by Angler man
http:///forum/post/2461198
Now that's what I'm talking about!
How long have you had it?
I sold it with my in wall tank (just easier) But i had it a yr, and i talk to the the owner and after 2 yrs its still looking good, its gotten pretty big. I had it under 260 watts of PC lighting, mid tank. I have a baby one now, but its not as yellow as this one was, hopefully it will get more yellow as it grows. I have that one under MH lighting. Its growing pretty quickly.
http:///forum/post/2461198
Now that's what I'm talking about!
How long have you had it?
I sold it with my in wall tank (just easier) But i had it a yr, and i talk to the the owner and after 2 yrs its still looking good, its gotten pretty big. I had it under 260 watts of PC lighting, mid tank. I have a baby one now, but its not as yellow as this one was, hopefully it will get more yellow as it grows. I have that one under MH lighting. Its growing pretty quickly.
groupergenius
Active Member
Is this the same? I have a hard time getting my camera to accurately catch true colors, but it's a little more yellow in real life. I have had this one for 8 months now and it has doubled in size. IMHO kind of slow grower.
A
alexmir
Guest
Its about 7 inches across , It is more of a golden color than a bright yellow. I do have a PW blowing specifically on him, i have it blowing about 3 inches above him at a pretty steady rate, so it blows alot of water over it, not at it. This has done a good job blowing of the waxy coating
A
alexmir
Guest
Just figured out how to upload pics, heres a few of mine, i LOVE it!!! Its starting to get some really nice ruffles.
reefkprz
Active Member
here is some info on sarcophyton, this isw a write up I began on sarcophyton leathers
Sarcophyton sp. (toadstool leather, fancy toadstool leather, yellow fiji leather and more)
S. ehrenbergi (fancy toadstool leather) , S. elegans(yellow fiji leather), S. trocheliophorum (toadstool leather or lobed toadstool leather)
warning Sarcophytons may exude chemical toxins (terpines) that are harmfull to many SPS and some LPS. the level of harm can be anywhere from inhibiting growth to full death. DO NOT propagate a sarcopyton in a tank containing SPS. proper chemical filtration and skimming may assist in reducing the toxins effects through removal.
toadstool leathers are generally hardy and prefer high light though they can usually adapt to lower light (with the exception of S. elegans it is more light demanding than the rest)
they like moderate to high flow, this assist their shedding wich they periodically go through, usually from growth but also after periods of high stress. S. ehrenbergi sheds the least often of the species I have expirience with. shedding can take a couple of days to a week. Ample flow is imperitave to proper shedding.
it may benifit from microscopic zooplankton but mainly subsists on its ability to photosynthesize. you dont have to spot feed it naturally occuring phyto and zoaplankton is usually enough unless your tank has an overskim capacity that is mindboggeling. (read that as, if you have fish to poop in your tank there will be more than enough food for the sarcophyton)
they are readily propagated, with most cutting off a section then placing the chunk in a dish with rubble for the frag to attach to is usually the best method. (S. elegans is less accepting of these tactics and does not frag well, constriction cuts are best for this species)
S. elegans can be damaged easily from contact hobbyists have reported finger marks causing necrosis from simply touching the flesh of the yellow leather, try to avoid touch the flesh directly..
hope this helps.
Sarcophyton sp. (toadstool leather, fancy toadstool leather, yellow fiji leather and more)
S. ehrenbergi (fancy toadstool leather) , S. elegans(yellow fiji leather), S. trocheliophorum (toadstool leather or lobed toadstool leather)
warning Sarcophytons may exude chemical toxins (terpines) that are harmfull to many SPS and some LPS. the level of harm can be anywhere from inhibiting growth to full death. DO NOT propagate a sarcopyton in a tank containing SPS. proper chemical filtration and skimming may assist in reducing the toxins effects through removal.
toadstool leathers are generally hardy and prefer high light though they can usually adapt to lower light (with the exception of S. elegans it is more light demanding than the rest)
they like moderate to high flow, this assist their shedding wich they periodically go through, usually from growth but also after periods of high stress. S. ehrenbergi sheds the least often of the species I have expirience with. shedding can take a couple of days to a week. Ample flow is imperitave to proper shedding.
it may benifit from microscopic zooplankton but mainly subsists on its ability to photosynthesize. you dont have to spot feed it naturally occuring phyto and zoaplankton is usually enough unless your tank has an overskim capacity that is mindboggeling. (read that as, if you have fish to poop in your tank there will be more than enough food for the sarcophyton)
they are readily propagated, with most cutting off a section then placing the chunk in a dish with rubble for the frag to attach to is usually the best method. (S. elegans is less accepting of these tactics and does not frag well, constriction cuts are best for this species)
S. elegans can be damaged easily from contact hobbyists have reported finger marks causing necrosis from simply touching the flesh of the yellow leather, try to avoid touch the flesh directly..
hope this helps.