quads4_lif
Member
What are your opinions????
Best adhesive for diy sump
- Thread starter quads4_lif
- Start date
turningtim
Active Member
Whats the material? Glass? Acrylic?
quads4_lif
Member
oh sorry I am going to try and use an old glass 20 gal tank and glue plexi glass for the bafels
turningtim
Active Member
Well some say its possible to adhere glass and acrylic with 100% silicone. But I would just get glass panels cut to fit your sump and use silicone, that way you would know that it would stick. There is really nothing out there made for your intended purpose that I know of.
Beside glass is cheaper, for baffles I would imagine 3/16 would work.
JMO
Tim
Beside glass is cheaper, for baffles I would imagine 3/16 would work.
JMO
Tim
quads4_lif
Member
ok thank you for your help
F
freekazz
Guest
I have found great sucsses using crazy glue to glue th acrylic to the glass and then silicone it. Ihave one going for about 5 years now
acrylic51
Active Member
For glueing baffles inside a glass tank silicone would be the ticket, because the WeldOn solvent used to join acrylic wouldn't work on the glass, and if your using acrylic for your sump then you wouldn't want silicone, because it won't hold you would want the WeldOn solvent.....
quads4_lif
Member
What would be best if I glue plexiglass to build my sump because I am going to need a weird shape for it to fit under my 55gal because the 20 gal is 12" wide and the widest I can use is 10" wide. so I am going to have to build my sump the demensions will prob be 30"long X 10"wide X 16"tall. should I use weld on if so what kind and what do I need to know before I start and should I silicone on top to make sure I dont have any leaks
F
freekazz
Guest
Go to usplastics.com get the acrylic adhesive [ you will also need the application syringe]. I built one with weld on and it fell apart.
F
freekazz
Guest
you need acylic solvent cement usplastic part # 43401 and applicator.
quads4_lif
Member
Do they sell the weldon #4 and #16 at lowes or HD?
chipmaker
Active Member
I have never heard of any Lowes or HD selling any Weldon solvents.....If the joints are done right, there is no need for any silicone anywhere on an acrylic item.
I owuld look in the yellow pages for a plastics company or one of those companies that makes the outdoors acrylic signs as they use it. Save you some $$$ on hazmat shipping charges.........I havew also seen Craftics brand solvent which is probably Weldon or IPS packaged for this company under their label for sale in Michaels Crafts Store a well as another local hobby and craft store here, so that may be an option for you too.
I owuld look in the yellow pages for a plastics company or one of those companies that makes the outdoors acrylic signs as they use it. Save you some $$$ on hazmat shipping charges.........I havew also seen Craftics brand solvent which is probably Weldon or IPS packaged for this company under their label for sale in Michaels Crafts Store a well as another local hobby and craft store here, so that may be an option for you too.
F
freekazz
Guest
The acylic adhesive that is needed is not sold anywhere in a impovement store. I looked everywere just to avoid the shipping charges. Like I said before USPLASTICS.com. shipping is about $15 but that stuff is what u need.IT WORKS.
T
thomas712
Guest
Way old post of mine from 3 years ago.
True acrylic cement is methylene chloride and is a carcinogen. It is best applied by syringe with a long needle to facilitate corner adhering, etc. No tape, clamps or other "hold-together" supports are needed. Only an architect's triangle and "T" sqaure are reqired to align the sides to the bottom and/or any inserts you plan on including.
By wicking the cement, capilliary action allows it to travel the length of the joint insuring a water-tight seal.
Acrylic:
The one big area ofter overlooked is the cut edge preparation before bonding. The saw action leaves a surface pitted and uneven. Due to the viscosity of the cement, (thin), these rough edges need attention before actual assembly. Then a propane blow torch set way, way low to sort-of flame polish the final mating surfaces.
There is a thicker viscosity cement out there that fills some imperfections when cementing, but not nessessary for this application, only on high pressure sensitive work.
Thomas
True acrylic cement is methylene chloride and is a carcinogen. It is best applied by syringe with a long needle to facilitate corner adhering, etc. No tape, clamps or other "hold-together" supports are needed. Only an architect's triangle and "T" sqaure are reqired to align the sides to the bottom and/or any inserts you plan on including.
By wicking the cement, capilliary action allows it to travel the length of the joint insuring a water-tight seal.
Acrylic:
The one big area ofter overlooked is the cut edge preparation before bonding. The saw action leaves a surface pitted and uneven. Due to the viscosity of the cement, (thin), these rough edges need attention before actual assembly. Then a propane blow torch set way, way low to sort-of flame polish the final mating surfaces.
There is a thicker viscosity cement out there that fills some imperfections when cementing, but not nessessary for this application, only on high pressure sensitive work.
Thomas
F
freekazz
Guest
Thank U
acrylic51
Active Member
Thomas real familar with acrylic work......Do quite a bit....I prefer to cut pieces on table saw and then take it to the joiner to get true clean edges......I often profile my pieces with my hand shaper as well if I want a rounded lip or such or V groove......And no you won't find WeldOn solvent at Lowes or HD....You have to see a plastics dealer.
Flame polishing has alot to do with how your torch is setup and the flame.....It does take some practicing to get the hang of how fast to move the torch over your work piece and you don't want to overheat the material, because it will cause it to bubble
Flame polishing has alot to do with how your torch is setup and the flame.....It does take some practicing to get the hang of how fast to move the torch over your work piece and you don't want to overheat the material, because it will cause it to bubble
quads4_lif
Member
I am sure you have answered this post a thousand times but thank you for all the info I will order the stuff from usplastic.com and the aplicator and try it on something small first before I do my sump
Thank You
Thank You