Best Lighting for a 180G tank for a 1000$

ivasawajin

Member
i want to upgrade my 90G reef tank to a 180G in a week . so i want the best possible lighting for it . the tank is around 2 Meters long . i dont know to choose LED lightings or Metal halides . Metals are ugly and to hot and take much electrecity but LED's are more expensive and doesnt seem to be a 2 meter LED pack . any suggestions ??? i want to have every type of coral in the tank by the way
 

acrylic51

Active Member
LED's would work, use optics. Honestly you can't look at the initial expense of LED's as a draw back, when you consider the savings as far as electricity, cooling your system, and cost o bulb replacement for a MH setup bs LED's.
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
Yep, the innitial cost can seem a bit daunting but the LEDs will more than pay for themselves in the long run with the money that they will save you. 2 smaller 36" fixtures would/could work.
 

sparty059

Active Member
What would be a name brand preference on LED's? I've had a few threads on this also and decided to stick with my current PC's but after using my moonlight LED's I'm just in awe of the shimmer they provide. Are there any that would be sufficient enough for a deeper tank (Two feet)?
 

sparty059

Active Member
I was looking at a website and noticed a 24" Orphek Power Reef PR156 LED Light Fixture. Since my tank is 60" wide I would assume I would purchase two of these. The only thing that would keep me from doing so would be that they say they're output for each unit is similar to 250w-400w MH/HPS light. Would that mean that I'm pretty much putting 500w-800w in my tank if I purchase two of these? Or am I just getting that much power of light (250-400w) in that general area?
Also, would you suggest that as a good item, or is there a different one you would recommend over that?
And lastly, it says good for SPS Coral. Is SPS the most needy coral for light? Or does that mean that I won't be able to get sea anemone with this type of lighting?
 

acrylic51

Active Member
I guess my real concern would be someone running a larger setup let's say running 3-4 250 or 400w MH's and you have 2-3 larger sequence pumps, and other odds and ends and all of a sudden all the MH's fire at once. No possibility of tripping the unit? I personally break my load up evenly and don't put all my lights or pumps on the same circuit, but some people aren't as fortunate.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Correct!!!! That's why when you figure in the heat they put off, and possibility of needing a chiller in cases, electrical usage, and replacement costs, it doesn't take long to see the initial investment on LED's would pay for itself shortly!!!!JMO
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by IvasawaJin http:///forum/thread/381645/best-lighting-for-a-180g-tank-for-a-1000#post_3325663
i heard Metal halides are to hot and take really much electricity and needs to be replaced twice a year .
They do get hot...many people have to run fans on their tanks to combat the heat. They do eat up alot of power. The bulbs lose alot of their output pretty fast, it's not noticeable to the eye but they drop something like 30% in the first couple of monthes and then it continues from there which creates a shift in color spectrum. That's why alot of guys replace bulbs twice a year or at least once.
 

sparty059

Active Member
Do you think it would be possible to purchase one 24" unit first and have it on one side of the tank and keep the PC lights on the other side of the tank this way I don't drop $1700 at once?
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
The Orpheks i'm pretty sure use the 2W LED's. Their claims to be able to keep SPS are rather bold and misleading IMO. It may very well be possible to do so on a shallow tank but I seriously doubt it in a deep tank. They don't use optics which tells you right there that the penetration is limited. Guys who've been running 3watt Cree LED's which are the best on the market HAVE to use optics to get the penetration they are looking for in deep tanks.
Over on reefbuilders they got ahold of one of these units and dissected it. They found that they aren't using any type of heatsink in the unit to cool the LED's whatsoever. The electrical and power components are all glued into the unit. The wattage that they are advertising them at leads one to believe they are being ran at pretty much max capacity which means they will run hot which also means they probably won't last terribly long. They have one cheap fan inside the unit and that's it. So if bulbs start to go out there's no good way to replace a bulbs without doing some major modifications to the unit.
Lastly...on the claims of being able to keep SPS. The manufacturer makes claims of their unit producing these fabulous PAR numbers but they did this test in air and not over water. Another thing to be considered are the guys who have been running LEDs for a couple years now are seeing that they standard mix of white and blue does great for everything but SPS. The SPS tend to lose color...this could be from a lack of color spectrum as well as a lack of U.V. since LEDs don't produce U.V. The issue isn't with corals bleaching it's just that they lose color. SPS have certain pigments and produce these beautifull colors as a result of their natural defense to protect themselves against U.V. radiation. And these colors are what make them so beautiful to look at in the first place.
LEDs are great but were still learning about the pro's and con's as far as the harder corals are concerned. I think the problems can be worked out with supplimenting the standard white and blue mix with possibly some other color LEDs and or the integration of U.V. LEDs.
Sparty...I'd stay away from the Orpheks right now. They are new on the market and not many guys willing to shell out the cash to be the ginea pigs. If you want a good plug and play fixture check out the Pacific Sun fixtures. They use 3w Cree LEDs as well as Optics. They are dimmable and come come with a built in interface to run with the Profilux controlers. I believe they will also mix and match colors for you as well.
 

sparty059

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///forum/thread/381645/best-lighting-for-a-180g-tank-for-a-1000#post_3325686
The Orpheks i'm pretty sure use the 2W LED's. Their claims to be able to keep SPS are rather bold and misleading IMO. It may very well be possible to do so on a shallow tank but I seriously doubt it in a deep tank. They don't use optics which tells you right there that the penetration is limited. Guys who've been running 3watt Cree LED's which are the best on the market HAVE to use optics to get the penetration they are looking for in deep tanks.
Over on reefbuilders they got ahold of one of these units and dissected it. They found that they aren't using any type of heatsink in the unit to cool the LED's whatsoever. The electrical and power components are all glued into the unit. The wattage that they are advertising them at leads one to believe they are being ran at pretty much max capacity which means they will run hot which also means they probably won't last terribly long. They have one cheap fan inside the unit and that's it. So if bulbs start to go out there's no good way to replace a bulbs without doing some major modifications to the unit.
Lastly...on the claims of being able to keep SPS. The manufacturer makes claims of their unit producing these fabulous PAR numbers but they did this test in air and not over water. Another thing to be considered are the guys who have been running LEDs for a couple years now are seeing that they standard mix of white and blue does great for everything but SPS. The SPS tend to lose color...this could be from a lack of color spectrum as well as a lack of U.V. since LEDs don't produce U.V. The issue isn't with corals bleaching it's just that they lose color. SPS have certain pigments and produce these beautifull colors as a result of their natural defense to protect themselves against U.V. radiation. And these colors are what make them so beautiful to look at in the first place.
LEDs are great but were still learning about the pro's and con's as far as the harder corals are concerned. I think the problems can be worked out with supplimenting the standard white and blue mix with possibly some other color LEDs and or the integration of U.V. LEDs.
Sparty...I'd stay away from the Orpheks right now. They are new on the market and not many guys willing to shell out the cash to be the ginea pigs. If you want a good plug and play fixture check out the Pacific Sun fixtures. They use 3w Cree LEDs as well as Optics. They are dimmable and come come with a built in interface to run with the Profilux controlers. I believe they will also mix and match colors for you as well.
Corey, that was a plethora of information! But, GREAT information! Thank you for all the information up front. It saves me time from doing a ton of research over the weekend and possibly making a poor purchase.
 

monsinour

Active Member
For anyone wonder what the $ looks like over time, i did it for ya:

Oh crap, I forgot to take out the $60 for the first year in those T5HO prices. So just subtract $60 from each price as the inital $150 would obviously include the bulbs.
If someone wants to give me pricing info for MH, i will be more than happy to do a price comparasion with those as well. While I did this for everyone here on the boards, I also did this for myself and my wife. She will have a real eye opener experience looking at how much just the $15 light bulbs are going to cost over time.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Very nice break down, but could you also show or illustrate the savings electrical wise???? That is a huge area, and bulbs need swapped out 2X per year on MH and T5's, there is a spectrum shift but not to the naked eye.
 

monsinour

Active Member
well, I would like to but electricity for me is $0.17 per KWh. It is rediculously high as in ohio its only $0.07 per KWh. If you get me the prices and how often to change things I would be more than happy to make a sheet and post the results.
 
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