Beth, you were right, Parasite Stop didn't work......

badoleross

Member
Well, the PBT is not getting any better.
The spots on him dropped off for a period of time but have now resurfaced(the normal ich cycle). The yellow tang is looking much better however. I have decided to empty the 220 of LR, catch the fish and get them all in a QT. I only have a 55 so frequent water changes and 3 Mangum HOB filter will be needed. I will leave my display tank empty for 6 weeks and clean the meds out with carbon. My questions are:

1. I need to run hypo on the QT to treat the ich but the YT still has a fungal or bacterial infection. Can I run hypo with the bac/fungal meds or shoud I hold off on the meds until the stress of hypo is gone and the salinity is back to normal?.
2. With the DT having so many meds in it right now, am I better off setting up the QT with fresh saltwater and acclimating the fish or should I go ahead and use the DTs water and change it out with the water changes?
Now saturday morning and I am headed off to work. Beth, whatever corse of action you recommend is the route I am taking
when I get home this evening. I have plenty of water, both RO/DI and salt at the ready. What do you think about a formaldehyde dip between tanks or will this create more unnessasary stess?
 

beth

Administrator
Staff member
What kind meds did you put into the display, minus the Parasite Stop? Do you have inverts, corals? You mentioned LR.
FORGET formaldehyde. The way to go is hypo. But answer the above questions, first.
 

beth

Administrator
Staff member
You can either set up a QT, and do the hyposalinity in that, a rubbermaid where all your fish can fit comfortably for a month will do well, or you can use the rubbermaid for your LR and do the hypo in the display. Hypo takes massive water changes, so be prepared for that if you go with the display.
If you do hypo, read the info posted on the procedure in the FAQ Thread.
 

badoleross

Member
I have a small childrens pool that I use to cure my LR. I am going to remove the LR from the tank and hypo the main tank. That way I have my filters, PHs, skimmer and everything else already in place. I will need to keep a close eye on ammonia with the LR gone. I have about 150lbs of salt mix onhand so water changes are not an issue. Will hypo have any effect on the yellow tangs bacterial or fungal infection? Hypo is for 3 weeks then a week to raise the salinity level back up. Correct?
 

beth

Administrator
Staff member
Just so you are aware that masses of dechlorinated water will be needed. Are you using RO water? Take care to test pH 2x a day during the change-out of water. Also, since the tank will not have LR, you will need to replace the fishes' comfort using fake rock or even pieces of pvc.
Do you have a refractometer for the hyposalinity?
Target feed the fish with a syringe or turkey baster and keep water moving well [but comfortable for the fish]. Don't dump food in the tank, just feed tiny bits at a time, a few times a day with a syringe or the baster so that you cut down on waste. Yes, spikes will be a concern, but you substrate is still in place. Take your time, but be diligent.
Hypo will increase fish appetite, usually.
 

badoleross

Member
Yes, I am using RO/DI water. I have a Typhoon III which is rated at about 75 gallons a day. I keep my water in a 44 gallon Brute trashcan that has a float valve on it. I have already removed the LR and replaced it with several pieces of PVC and a tacky aquarium decoration I had sitting around. I do have a refractometer, I learned early about the evils of the swing arm. I started lowering the salinity tonight and brought it down to 1.021 changing out about 1/5 of the tank. I will change more out tomorrow. I will keep you posted. Thanks for the assistance.
 

badoleross

Member
Salinity is down to 1.008 and the white spots AKA ich are dropping like flies. PBTlooked like he had been rolled in salt a day or so ago. Now he onlyhas a dozen or so spots on him. PH is looking good.
 
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