bio/mechanical filtration ???

1911_guy

1911_guy

Member
What is the purpose of the bio-wheel used on many HOB power filters?
These are not designed to be replaced, like the carbon prefilter is...but would there ever be a need to remove and replace the bio-wheel?
I removed the carbon prefilter from my Emperor 280 which is running on my QT and installed it in the sump to my display tank. I used the extra media storage cartridge from the E280 and added ceramic cylinders. What other media/filtration should be used for a QT besides the bio-wheel and ceramics?
I've gotten a lot of negative feedback on the ceramics, any suggestions on what to use for mechanical filtration in the QT?...bio-beads?
I am in the process of cycling the QT, when should I add the foam from my sump? (foam placed in sump a week ago to collect bacteria)
I have also gotten some feedback to remove the carbon from QT because it will not allow medicines used to treat sick fish to work properly. What else am I supposed to use to remove ammonia and trates once I have fish in there creating a bioload?
Thanks...confused in quarantine
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
My thoughts on QT, HT, and Acclimation...
With all the discussion on "Do you QT...?" "Should you QT..?""What is QT..?""How do you QT..?""Whats HT...?""How does all this relate to acclimation..?""How does this relate to treatment..?" and " Why can't I just toss my new fish in the tank...?" I thought I'd toss out a few simple qualifiers...again, this is all open to discussion, and just like setting up your tank or filtration, or whether you choose to run a skimmer or not...There is more than one way to do and set up QT...
Please read the fine print...
Let's get the small print/Disclaimer out of the way...right up front..."This is my "opinion" and you are welcome to yours"...
Definitions:
QT "Quarantine Tank": A separate tank or system NOT connected to Main tank water supply in any direct way. Used to quarantine or "separate" a new arrival for observation, acclimation and stress reduction...
HT: "Hospital Tank": A separate tank or system NOT connected to Main Tank water supply in any direct way. Used to "Treat" a sick, injured, or parasite infected fish separate from main tank...
HT: can also mean "Hotel Tank" A separate tank or system that MAY be connected to main tank water supply. Used to "grow out" a too small specimen. or give a feisty fish a "time out" from MT and Tankmates...
Set Up and Maintenance:
QT: A QT (again separate from main) needs to be a safe, stable, "cycled" environment in order to not induce any further stressors to your new acquisition from water parameter changes...But it also needs to be a "clean" environment in that there is no place for disease and parasites to "hide"...so sand and live rocks are OUT..
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
So "How do you cycle and maintain a tank with no LR/LS?" you may ask..Every "newbie" post says "That's" the FIRST thing you put in...
Yes, for a large volume, main tank with a medium to high bio load, LR/LS IS your best filtration...But a QT is generally a smaller volume system (but not too small to invoke stressors) and the bio load is limited to ONE fish at a time...So filtration needs are less...
A simple "sponge" filter or even the ever "popular" Bio Wheel Hang on filters will work just fine...Understanding the "cycle" (subject of another chapter in one of my books ) tells you that it's not the "water" that needs to cycle...but having an adequate population of nitrifying bacteria to maintain good water parameters...which is the "result" of the cycle that we seek...
This can be achieved either by keeping the QT "alive and running" full time with say mollies or a damsel or preferably some "easy to catch" movable fish...(not always an option due to space and time constraints)
OR... Having an "instant" cycle by keeping the sponge filter and /or Bio wheels wet and "alive" by placing and keeping in your sump or fuge until needed...and then transferring water from MT to QT (partial WC in MT) and hooking up sponge filter or Biowheel...QT tank is NOW ready and has an adequate population of nitrifying bacteria to sustain it's "first" and "only" fish..
Other items required are a heater too maintain temps, a "solid" plastic tube or "shelter/hiding place" and possibly "slight" additional flow to keep water moving and oxygenation up...Skimmers are "optional" on QT as it's a short term use/low bio load tank...Lights are "optional" on QT, nice to "see" fish for observation purposes, but lower lighting is stress reducing...
This is the same set up for a HT (hospital) tank and can become one instantly from QT or set up directly to treat...It's now the "treatments" that dictate the space enviroment...sand and rock absorb meds, and are "ruined" by copper and Hypo treatments...Keep it simple...keep it clean..
Back to QT....and it's use's for acclimation and observation...
"Observation" being the key...The fish is in QT for a "period" of time (undetermined as of yet) to "observe" habits, eating, checking for "spots" and fungus or slime, or signs of trouble swimming or breathing...
To begin eating and assimilating energy spent/used up by stress producing hormones that affect it's basic cellular metabolism...
This is where the "low salinity" (not necessarily "HYPO" level) water comes into play...A fish uses quite a bit (30%) of it's cellular energy regulating osmotic balance in high salinity water..energy better directed at developing immune system function, digestive function and lowering of stress produced hormones...
If NO signs of illness or parasitic infestation present themselves....4 weeks should give you reasonable assurance the fish will be fine in the MT...If after 2 weeks "sign free" but you feel better "Hypo Killing" any "possible" ick..start your "treatment" and continue for an additional 4 weeks...
If at any time signs of illness or infestation present themselves...Imeadiatly (after proper diagnosis) start the "correct" treatment regime and continue with isolation/observation for an additional 4 weeks AFTER all signs have dissappeared...
If for some reason you choose to (or need to) use copper or any "non-transferable" meds..you can dispose of the sponge from the filter (or the bio wheels/ they are NOT that expensive) otherwise place them back in MT sump or fuge to keep bacteria alive...and break the QT down till it's next needed...
 
1911_guy

1911_guy

Member
Squidd

Thanks. Here's what I gather from your response:
#1-purpose is to house denitrifying bacteria
#2-removal when there is no fish in QT, only to put it in sump of DT until needed again
#3-unanswered
#4-unanswered
#5-anytime, during or after cycle...used when placing a fish in QT
#6-bio-wheel and sponge/foam???
 
1911_guy

1911_guy

Member
#3 & #4,
Originally Posted by Squidd
A simple "sponge" filter or even the ever "popular" Bio Wheel Hang on filters will work just fine...Understanding the "cycle" (subject of another chapter in one of my books ) tells you that it's not the "water" that needs to cycle...but having an adequate population of nitrifying bacteria to maintain good water parameters...which is the "result" of the cycle that we seek...
This can be achieved either by keeping the QT "alive and running" full time with say mollies or a damsel or preferably some "easy to catch" movable fish...(not always an option due to space and time constraints)
OR... Having an "instant" cycle by keeping the sponge filter and /or Bio wheels wet and "alive" by placing and keeping in your sump or fuge until needed...and then transferring water from MT to QT (partial WC in MT) and hooking up sponge filter or Biowheel...QT tank is NOW ready and has an adequate population of nitrifying bacteria to sustain it's "first" and "only" fish..
So there is no need to have any media, just the sponge with bacteria and the bio-wheel (same thing) and transferring water during water changes....no LS or LR or anything that gives nitrites somewhere to hide...
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
Yep...It's QT...Just a clean safe relatively sterile environment (yes, nitrogen processing bacteria) that allows short term, low stress observation and no place to absorb medications or contaminants if required or present...
 
big_money

big_money

New Member
Originally Posted by Squidd
Yes, for a large volume, main tank with a medium to high bio load, LR/LS IS your best filtration...But a QT is generally a smaller volume system (but not too small to invoke stressors) and the bio load is limited to ONE fish at a time...So filtration needs are less...
How small is too small for a QT?
What is the correct ratio of QT size to recommended DT size for a fish? 33%? 50%? 100%? Or does it depend on the species?
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
Partly depends on species, but generally a 10 to 20 gallon..
Remember you have minimal filtration, (although you also have minimal bio load) so too small and water parameters can change and get out of wack quick...On the other hand, WCs help cleanse the tank during QT so too big a tank and you go thru a lot of salt and water...not to mention medicines (if required) are dosed per gallon so a smaller tank will be more efficient with amounts needed...
 
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