Biowheels

[slider101]

Quick question, I am having a cyano problem and some green algea. I have heard that the bio wheel on my Marineland Emperor 400 filter is a nitrate and phosphate factory and could be causing this. Could the 2 big bio wheels be causing my nitrates and phosphate up causing my algea condition? I have lowered my feeding, only using RO water now. Just wondering if I should pull the biowheels out and try that?

 

[florida joe]

Start by asking yourself how phosphates and nitrates end up in your thank. Think see if and how your bio-wheel could be a factor and then you will be able to address the problem.
IMO bio-wheels get an unjustified negative reputation

 

[slider101]

Originally Posted by florida joe
http:///forum/post/2896495
Start by asking yourself how phosphates and nitrates end up in your thank. Think see if and how your bio-wheel could be a factor and then you will be able to address the problem.
IMO bio-wheels get an unjustified negative reputation
Well, I am new to this hobby and think that I have tried to address the other problems. I have lowered my feedings because I think I was slightly overfeeding, just liked watching the little guys eat lol. I have tried vacuuming and cleaning my rocks and it comes back within a day. I am staying around 10 on my nitrates and I haven't got a phosphate test kit but am looking everywhere currently locally. I have also tried to slowly lower my lighting times. I was just thinking maybe the biowheels but wanted some advice.

 

[snakeblitz33]

IMO, I believe that the bacteria held on biowheels break down ammonia and nitrite into nitrate so that it is not toxic to fish and inverts. It adds to the biological filtration of the system. Nitrate and phosphate is supposed to be removed by protein skimmers, macroalgae and water changes.
Consider how much food you feed, or how little water change you do, or even the frequency of your water change. Consider that if you use de-chlorinated tap, you could also be adding nitrate and phosphate into your system. There can be a whole lot more reasons other then your biowheel contributing to the problem.
IMO, Your biowheel is doing nothing more then working.

 

[snakeblitz33]

What type of algae condition do you have?

 

[usirchchris]

Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33
http:///forum/post/2896505
IMO, I believe that the bacteria held on biowheels break down ammonia and nitrite into nitrate so that it is not toxic to fish and inverts. It adds to the biological filtration of the system. Nitrate and phosphate is supposed to be removed by protein skimmers, macroalgae and water changes.
Consider how much food you feed, or how little water change you do, or even the frequency of your water change. Consider that if you use de-chlorinated tap, you could also be adding nitrate and phosphate into your system. There can be a whole lot more reasons other then your biowheel contributing to the problem.
IMO, Your biowheel is doing nothing more then working.
+1

 

[florida joe]

How long has your tank been set up? Ammonia to nitrite happens quickly. Nitrite to nitrate not as fast. Nitrate to nitrogen gas VERY SLOWLY (THE BACTERA YOU NEED FOR THE CONVERSON IS SLOW GROWING AND LIMITED TO SPICIFIC MINIMAL AREAS OF YOUR TANK). So you are going to see nitrates in your tank until these areas are populated sufficiently to handle the nitrates.
Bo-wheels are manufactured to have multi-pleated areas for nitrification to colonize on. They do a great job as they are constantly in the flow of nutrient rich water.

 

[slider101]

Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33
http:///forum/post/2896507
What type of algae condition do you have?
I am getting a red stringy hairy gooey looking algea which I assume if cyano. I have a 55 gal tank and I am vacuuming and changing water out about every 3-4 days but only doing about 10-15 gals at the most at a time. My Ph, ammonia, and nitrite levels are all good, amm at 0 trites at 0 and Ph around 8.0-8.2. I am feeding once a day now only the amount they can eat in 5 min. Actnic lights running about 12 hours and daylights about 10.

 

[slider101]

Originally Posted by florida joe
http:///forum/post/2896513
How long has your tank been set up? Ammonia to nitrite happens quickly. Nitrite to nitrate not as fast. Nitrate to nitrogen gas VERY SLOWLY (THE BACTERA YOU NEED FOR THE CONVERSON IS SLOW GROWING AND LIMITED TO SPICIFIC MINIMAL AREAS OF YOUR TANK). So you are going to see nitrates in your tank until these areas are populated sufficiently to handle the nitrates.
Bo-wheels are manufactured to have multi-pleated areas for nitrification to colonize on. They do a great job as they are constantly in the flow of nutrient rich water.
Been set up with fish and inverts for a little over a month, before that a month getting stable. THe main thing is I want to know if this is normal to be having this kind of growth everday in the beginning or if I am doing something wrong?

 

[snakeblitz33]

Hmm, alright. So, it's not a question so much about your biowheel, but how to get rid of an algae problem. Got yah.
Cut down on your actinic and daylights to about six to eight hours a day. Which is what they should be on already anyways.
Also, in a 55 gallon tank, 5 gallon water changes aren't going to do much at all. Do a 50% water change immediately with store bought water. NO MORE USING TAP WATER
Cut down on your feeding time too. It's better for fish to have multiple feedings per day that are smaller then one large meal once a day. It's better for the fishes health.
What sort of substrate are you using? Crushed coral, barebottom or live sand? How thick is your live sand bed? What is your nitrate and phosphate reading?
How many fish do you have? What type of fish are they? Are they fully grown adults? What type of cleanup crew do you have?

 

[snakeblitz33]

Oh, by the way, what is your internal flow rate? Do you have any powerheads in your tank stirring things up?
Of course, it is natural for aquariums to go through stages. Cyano is a stage, but it usually quickly goes away and most of the time appears like six months after initial setup.

 

[slider101]

Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33
http:///forum/post/2896525
Hmm, alright. So, it's not a question so much about your biowheel, but how to get rid of an algae problem. Got yah.
Cut down on your actinic and daylights to about six to eight hours a day. Which is what they should be on already anyways.
Also, in a 55 gallon tank, 5 gallon water changes aren't going to do much at all. Do a 50% water change immediately with store bought water. NO MORE USING TAP WATER
Cut down on your feeding time too. It's better for fish to have multiple feedings per day that are smaller then one large meal once a day. It's better for the fishes health.
What sort of substrate are you using? Crushed coral, barebottom or live sand? How thick is your live sand bed? What is your nitrate and phosphate reading?
How many fish do you have? What type of fish are they? Are they fully grown adults? What type of cleanup crew do you have?
Right sorry, just the biowheel was my question if it was causing the algea. I am only using store bought water now. Started with tap 2 months ago when I filled the tank but using RO now.
I am using CC which I know is horrible but I can't tear the tank tank and go to sand now, If I could add the sand directly to the tank I would but it has to be cured right? I am getting a 10 on my nitrates and have not been able to locate a phosphate test kit locally so I am going to have to order one online.
I have 3 green chromis damsels and 1 clownfish still young I think. I have 1 cleaner shrimp and 8 red leg hermits.
SHould the lights be on for 6-8 hours a day constanly for split up the times?

 

[slider101]

Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33
http:///forum/post/2896529
Oh, by the way, what is your internal flow rate? Do you have any powerheads in your tank stirring things up?
Of course, it is natural for aquariums to go through stages. Cyano is a stage, but it usually quickly goes away and most of the time appears like six months after initial setup.
I have a Koralia 4 and 1 giving my about 1600 gph of flow in the tank.

 

[renogaw]

i ended up getting rid of the biowheel on mine after a while because it kept on getting salted up and stopped spinning.

 

[snakeblitz33]

slider,
When you do water changes, do you vacuum the crushed coral very well? If you don't get a gravel siphon vacuum, and really get deep dowin into your substrate - your not doing a proper water change.
Don't split up the running time on your lights. Look through some threads on how to get rid of cyanobacteria. Good luck!

 

[sueandherzoo]

While you're trying to figure out the source of your cyano problem, turn the lights off. I saw cyano starting to become a problem in my tank earlier this week so I turned off the tank lights and went out to the LFS to buy a phosphate test kit and some Phos-Zorb but with the holidays and the hectic pace this week I haven't had the chance to even do the phosphate test or clean the Fluval. I have the day off today so the plan was to spend time on tank maintenance and when I flipped on the lights just now I found the cyano is GONE. I'm probably one of the lucky ones who caught it early enough that simply leaving the lights off for a couple of days took care of it, but it might work for you, too. I am still going to spend time testing, cleaning the filter, doing a water change, etc. because nothing says the cyano won't come back again, but I was at least able to stall the growth while I figure out the source of the problem.
Good luck with yours!
Sue

 

[florida joe]

Just side notes in as much as you said you were new to the hobby don’t go on an all out cleaning regiment trying to eliminate the red algae by vacuuming. You will do more harm then good. Vacuum a section at a time and give the tank a chance to stabilize before you vacuum another section

 

[slider101]

Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33
http:///forum/post/2896556
slider,
When you do water changes, do you vacuum the crushed coral very well? If you don't get a gravel siphon vacuum, and really get deep dowin into your substrate - your not doing a proper water change.
Don't split up the running time on your lights. Look through some threads on how to get rid of cyanobacteria. Good luck!
I have a vacuum that is just a long tube with a clear chamber on the front. ONce I get the syphon going i usually stick the tube in the gravel and shuffle things around and raise the vac up and the gravel falls back out.
I dont split the time. I just adjusted the timers for 8 hours for each. Will give that a try. I hate it though cause the tank is in my office and I like to see it all lit up while I am working.

 

[snakeblitz33]

Originally Posted by florida joe
http:///forum/post/2896562
Just side notes in as much as you said you were new to the hobby don’t go on an all out cleaning regiment trying to eliminate the red algae by vacuuming. You will do more harm then good. Vacuum a section at a time and give the tank a chance to stabilize before you vacuum another section
+1
Sometimes I forget to explain everything - most of the time I just assume it as common sense.

 

[slider101]

I finally did a 20 gal water change last night on my 55 after several 10 gal ones. I only have 4 5gal water jugs right now and can't carry more water.
To what Joe was saying about vacuuming too much can be bad, should I just take my turkey baster and blow the algea and cyano off the rocks and CC bed and let the filter get it?
I checked all my levels today and they are as follows. PH 7.8-8.0, Nitrate 0, Nitrite 0, Ammonia 0. That is after 20 gal change yesterday. I am reading a SG of 1.020. The algea still seems to have grown some since last night when I cleaned everything and did the change.