Black silicone for resealing an old tank?

J

jackie dh

Guest
I have an old 120 long sitting in the floor that is at least 20 years old. It didn't leak when I took it down over 10 years ago, I want to set it up again but I think that resealing it might be a good idea? What do you think? I was considering using black silicone, but after reading the description of how to use it, I'm not sure that it would be a good idea????? Here's what it said.
"Excellent Primerless Adhesion to Glass for a Waterproof Seal Harmless to Fish When Fully Cured Clear Aquarium Silicone Sealant is a medium modulus, one component, acetic cure silicone recommended specifically for the fabrication and repair of fresh or salt water aquariums. It forms a tough waterproof seal that won't crack or shrink, and is non-toxic to fish when fully cured after 7 to 14 days. Cure time depends on bead size and cure conditions. The vinegar-like odor present during application is acetic acid and will disappear as material cures. Color: Black Contents of Cartridge : 10.3 fl oz (305 ml) How to Apply Clear Aquarium Silicone Sealant: 1. Surfaces to be sealed must be PERFECTLY CLEAN before applying sealant. Contaminants on glass surface will affect bond and may lead to leaks or total failure. Resealed aquariums or reusing of glass panels may present adhesion problems if extreme care isn't followed to clean glass. 2. Apply between glass edges and as a fillet bead,1/4 inch (6.35 millimeters) minimum, to gain maximum bond strength and structural integrity. 3. Maintain a permanent structural frame around the edges of tanks larger than 30 gallons to ensure integrity of tank and seals. 4. Make certain all of the sealant is FULLY CURED before filling the tank, otherwise damage to structural integrity or injury to fish is possible. Normal sealant cure will be 7-14 days depending on bead size and cure conditions (hot and humid is best). For unsupported tanks (30 gallons or less) the glass must be supported by mechanical means until the sealant has fully cured. 5. After sealant has cured rinse with warm water and refill, then check pH twice during the next 24 hours before stocking with fish. Important Note: LIMITATIONS: Aquarium tanks larger than 30 gallons (113.5 liters) in size require a permanent structural frame around the edges to ensure the integrity of the tank and seals. For unsupported tanks "
 

aquaknight

Active Member
The way to tell if the silicone is still good, is basically to feel it. Lightly dig your fingernail into it, and if it's still soft and rubbery/spongy feeling, like new silicone is, it's still good. My 125gal was over 20 years old (1987 manufactured) and still had good original silicone.
The description of that product sounds pretty standard, bit of mumbo jumbo to legally C.Y.A.
If the silicone is bad, unfortuntaley the tank will have to be completely dismantled, each glass pane will have to come off, just 'corner trimming' and patching won't work, silicone only bonds to glass, not to other silicone.
I had to install new glass braces on my 240gal, and I talked to an expert. Silicone sold as "aquarium silicone" is the same cheap stuff as GE I window silicone. For tanks over 30gals, you want to get the "real stuff." RTV103 for black silicone, or RTV108 for clear silicone. This is the actual stuff tank manufactures use to build large tanks. It's available from grainger, if you don't have a business license, you can order from drillspot.com, which is what I did.
 
J

jackie dh

Guest
I have found RTV1493 localy, will this work? I can't find any thing online about it other than one place that says that it's 100% silicone, which it doesn't say on the tube it's self.
 

aquaknight

Active Member
I can't find anything on it. Can you post a link to where you find it?
Silicones can be formulated very different. All it would take is for that stuff to have some anti-mold additive to wreak havoc on anything you put in there.
 

gill again68

Active Member
I have been thinking of making my own tank, not that this matters here. But if I were going to reseal or build new your bet your bottom dollar I would not experiment with something close to what manufactures use. Im just saying. If the stuff AquaKnight suggested is in fact the same as what the industry uses then I would use that. I havent read up on it myself but Im just saying thats a lot of water that you dont want on the floor.
 
J

jackie dh

Guest
I think that you are probably right, I'll hunt down the right silicone. The other stuff is easier to get and actually free, but it's not worth saving $10 or $20 bucks to have a huge mess and have to reseal the tank twice, not to mention the possible loss of fish.
I am so dreading taking that big old tank apart, it's heavy.... I would say that it weighs twice as much as my new 120. I've already resealed one side, some goober siliconed a seam and it came apart about half an inch, so they stuck a screw in the frame and tried to draw it back together after it was dry!
 
J

jackie dh

Guest
How many tubes do you think I will need? It's a 120 long and I will be using the 10.1 oz caulk gun tubes.
 

aquaknight

Active Member
Originally Posted by Jackie DH
http:///forum/post/3291228
How many tubes do you think I will need? It's a 120 long and I will be using the 10.1 oz caulk gun tubes.
I would get 3 tubes. I redid a 46gal bowfront and used 3/4 of a tube. 2 might cut it, but if you happen to run out halfway doing a pane, you're pretty screwed.
 
J

jackie dh

Guest
Is it possible to reseal the tank with out taking it apart? Just cutting out every thing that is on the inside of the tank but not whats between the pieces of glass? I think that the silicone is still good but I would like to add a fresh seal to the tank. The thought of taking that huge old thing apart is not really appealing to me. It's a six footer and heavy, it's all I can do to lift one end of the thing off the floor, (I'm a woman, but I'm no wimp) I would say that it weighs nearly twice as much as my 120 tall.
 

deejeff442

Active Member
i have resealed alot of tanks.i just go to home depot and get the 100% silicone.i dont take the tank apart.i did my 250 gallon ,45,55 and my 90 reef.one thing is the bigger the tank you need to do half at a time.so it doesnt just fall apart.scrape the silicone off with a new razor then the little residue the razor cant seem to get just soak some paper towel with water and get the thin silicone wet and re razor it off.i use a hair dryer to make sure it is completely dry in the seams.remember to put a very thick bead on the bottom.i resealed my 90 with 3/4 tube so i would think one tube should be close for the 120 but buy 2
 
J

jackie dh

Guest
You didn't take the silicone out that was between the glass?
 
J

jackie dh

Guest
I've ordered 3 tubes of the black and now I've found a used 125 tall for $200! Now what? Buy the used tank and reseal and sell the old one or maybe......... set up a fish room in the basement again!!!!
 
Top