Brand new to the hobby, have a few basic questions.

foxandhound

Member
Hi everyone,
Thanks to the TV show Tanked I have decided to delve into the fantastic hobby of maintaining a reef aquarium. I am starting on a bit of a budget and plan on going slowly. My plan is to start with a Fish and Live Rock only tank and eventually add corals when I learn to properly maintain the environment. I bought a few items from a friend. Right now I have a 55 gallon tank, a Fluval 205 filter, and 2 Fluorescent lighting fixtures. Here are a few of my questions (so far LOL)
1. I understand I will need about 100 pounds of live rock. At about $4 a pound I was hoping to break up this acquisition into 3 or 4 purchases. Is this possible? In other words can I add 25 pounds of rock at a time (with no fish) or does all the rock need to be placed at once?
2. I know the Fluval 205 filter is rated at 40 gallons (like I said I have a 55 gallon tank). Can I add a Fluval 105 (rated at 25 gallons) bringing the total filtration up or should I just invest in a larger filter?
3. Are standard Fluorescent lights sufficient for the fish? I know corals require upgraded lighting. I have 2 fixtures now both have 15 watt bulbs, one says "50/50" on the side.
Thanks for all your help in advance
Seth
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Hey Seth! Oh boy, now we have two Seth's, this will be interesting. I hope you stick around long enough to be one of the regulars. Welcome to the site, and I hope you enjoy your stay.
With that being said, I know you are anxious to get started in the hobby and you have all good intentions. Now is the time to start researching. Buy/Rent a good book on the hobby. The Conscientious Marine Aquarist by Bob Fenner is a good read. There's quite a few others, but that one is the most basic. I also highly suggest to start reading the 101 tips for new hobbyists in the "New Hobbyist" section of the forum. That will give you a pretty good basis of understanding so you can ask more educated answers. There's also a wonderful "search" function at the top of the forum, which if you don't know something and you want to learn, do a quick search for it, because chances are someone else has ran into the same problem.
In regards to your current questions, a 55g is a perfect starter aquarium. It's not very deep, and doesn't allow much room to aquascape, but it's what many people start with. 100 pounds of live rock is a good and fair amount of rock, but in today's modern aquaria, it's a little overkill. You should be aiming for around 75 pounds of rock total, but you can divide that amount in half - 37.5# live rock and 37.5# base rock/dry rock. It will help out on your budget. Put the dry rock in the tank first after your dry aragonite sand and then put your live rock on top of the base rock. Base rock will be seeded with bacteria, algaes, sponges, and all manner of sea life in the on coming months, essentially becoming live rock for half the cost. I know a decent place that you can get 40# of live rock for about $140 with free shipping. That's about $3.5/pound.
The canister filter isn't needed. In fact, many saltwater aquarists try to avoid canister filters if possible because the habit of them producing more nitrate/phosphate then they remove. There's also issues with monthly cleaning and saltwater creep/leaks. If you are looking into getting a new filter, I highly suggest getting an Emperor 400 biowheel filter. Some people here (Flower) will come and say that it's the most horrible filter there is and there is salt creep everywhere and yadda yadda, but I think that is BS, because I've used them, very effectively, for years.
Not only will you have to have a new filter, but I also suggest looking into an efficient skimmer. Stay away from the dreaded Seaclone and Coralife skimmers - Usually a beginner hobbyists first mistake. (though, Coralife does half way skim correctly, many people have reported issues with leakage, and the way the skimmate cup has to be removed) If you get a protein skimmer, I suggest investing a little extra money into one that we all know is going to work. Octopus hang on back skimmers do very well. Eshopps is great if you are on a budget, and many others have reported good results with Remora skimmers. Skimmers remove built up dissolved organic and particulate organic matter in the water column that can cause nitrates and phosphates to increase. So, overall, they are a good thing. There are more natural ways of waste removal like algae scrubbers and macroalgae, but for a new hobbyist, a protein skimmer is a good investment.
There is also two other pieces of equipment that you will have to invest in. One of which is a heater. fully submersible titanium grounded heaters are a great investment. I suggest buying two smaller heaters to put on either side of the tank for even heating. But, one larger heater is fine. All heaters can easily add stray voltage to the tank, so put your aquarium on a GFCI power outlet, and use powersupplys with a built in fuse. Also, it's a good idea to use a titanium grounding probe to direct stray voltage out of your tank.
The other piece of equipment that you will need, and arguably the most important, is powerheads. The standard powerhead to use in modern aquaria is a Koralia style powerhead. Koralia is a brand name, of course, but I use Koralia powerheads because they provide a much wider water stream which stirs up more detritus and waste than a standard powerhead. You should aim for 20x to 30x your tanks volume in powerhead turnover gph. So, for a 55g tank, you are looking at a minimum of 1,100gph coming from your powerheads. I suggest getting a minimum of two powerheads, rated for 550-700gph each. That will put you at about the right flow rate.
There's a lot to learn to get started. I see that you want a reef tank, so I highly suggest getting only reef safe fish. Stay away from damsels by all means. Damsels are small, but they can be little devils - terrors of a tank. Read and research every purchase before you buy it, this includes equipment AND livestock. Remember, these are living creatures we take care of, not just ornaments or pretty looking things. It's up to you to try your best to provide an environment that will suit them, to make them healthy and grow.
If you need any help one on one, don't be afraid to PM me or e-mail me. I'll be happy to help you along the way.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
lol - all of that, and I didn't answer your third question!
The lights that you have right now are just fine for fish - but for a reef tank, you will definitely have to upgrade them. I highly suggest looking into T5HO lights for a 55g reef. They seem to give the best Lumen and PAR values for the money. If your handy, you could DIY some pretty sweet LED setup, but it's not something that you should take on lightly. Researching your lighting is perhaps one of the most important things you should do for your reef, next to learning how to chemically balance your tank.
Here's a few things you should go ahead and invest in:
22g rubbermaid tote (for water changes)
4, 5g water totes(bottles)
turkey baster
API Liquid master test kit (nitrate, nitrite, ammonia and pH)
API liquid master reef test kit (nitrate, phosphate, Calcium, Alkalinity) purchase when you get ready for corals.
Rio 1100 pump (to mix saltwater for water changes and to pump water into your aquarium for water changes.)
Also, here's something that I haven't mentioned yet, and is very important that you remember:
Only use pure RO/DI water from a water vending machine, grocery store, wal-mart or your own personal RO/DI unit. All the salt water you mix up you should only use RO/DI water and all of the top off water you use is freshwater (RO/DI water). Distilled water is just fine to use. DO NOT use dechlorinated tap water by any means. Tap water has too many contaminates, heavy metals, flouride, copper, nitrates and phosphates to be able to be used in a saltwater aquarium.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Morgan, In this case, yes. All of the advice I gave are things that I do for my tank, and I have done for tanks in the past, quite successfully.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
I can't post any links here on the forum, it's against the rules. Lol, gotta PM me or e-mail me for links. You can call me Mr. Seth. lol
 

foxandhound

Member
I cannot thank you enough Seth (sounds funny saying my name). Your comments have proven to be so awesome.I've been running around town getting ideas on pricing, so thank you again. It's pretty much the most helpful comment I've come across!!!
So, few more questions for Seth and anyone else....
Can I mix live sand with regular sand in a 50/50 ratio?
Would the Deep Blue Solarmaxhe Double T5 10000k Strip W/led 48" be a sufficient lighting choice for begginer reef (which of course I am not even getting onto for several months...just kinda shopping ahead)??? I noticed people said the LED lights do not shut off, but you can switch from day to actinic night. Is LED moonlight a good ad-on? This is a $65 fixture with excellent reviews.
Do you turn off the circulation pumps and filter during feeding? If so, do Koralia pumps turn off? I am asking because I read that the Emperor 400 (maybe the older model) does not have a switch to reduce water flow. If this is the case, is there another good Filter that I can use with the Fluval 205? I think I'll use the Fluval while in fish only stages and then move to something else?
How many watts would be ideal for the two heaters? Would this change the number of titanium probes needed?
Also, I saw some rocks for $8-9 per lb....It got me thinking, maybe I can recreate those colors on my own cheaper rock? Do coraline algae accelerators work? When to add them? Now, in the beginning cycling phase?
Fish Store Guy was another story altigether. He told us a protein skimmer could be purchased several months later, he suggested another Fluval 205 and said they do not increase levels EVER, he said Tap water is smooth sailing with some conditioner drops, and he also said only two pieces or so of live rock is necessary and the notion of a pound of rock per gallon is nonsense. Good LOLZ.
Thanks for the info in the tap water. This is definitely new to me and Iooking forward to having living and thriving creatures. Shopping for a book sounds like it's right up my alley. Thanks.
 

foxandhound

Member
I cannot thank you enough Seth (sounds funny saying my name). Your comments have proven to be so awesome.I've been running around town getting ideas on pricing, so thank you again. It's pretty much the most helpful comment I've come across!!!
So, few more questions for Seth and anyone else....
Can I mix live sand with regular sand in a 50/50 ratio?
Would the Deep Blue Solarmaxhe Double T5 10000k Strip W/led 48" be a sufficient lighting choice for begginer reef (which of course I am not even getting onto for several months...just kinda shopping ahead)??? I noticed people said the LED lights do not shut off, but you can switch from day to actinic night. Is LED moonlight a good ad-on? This is a $65 fixture with excellent reviews.
Do you turn off the circulation pumps and filter during feeding? If so, do Koralia pumps turn off? I am asking because I read that the Emperor 400 (maybe the older model) does not have a switch to reduce water flow. If this is the case, is there another good Filter that I can use with the Fluval 205? I think I'll use the Fluval while in fish only stages and then move to something else?
How many watts would be ideal for the two heaters? Would this change the number of titanium probes needed?
Also, I saw some rocks for $8-9 per lb....It got me thinking, maybe I can recreate those colors on my own cheaper rock? Do coraline algae accelerators work? When to add them? Now, in the beginning cycling phase?
Fish Store Guy was another story altigether. He told us a protein skimmer could be purchased several months later, he suggested another Fluval 205 and said they do not increase levels EVER, he said Tap water is smooth sailing with some conditioner drops, and he also said only two pieces or so of live rock is necessary and the notion of a pound of rock per gallon is nonsense. Good LOLZ.
Thanks for the info in the tap water. This is definitely new to me and Iooking forward to having living and thriving creatures. Shopping for a book sounds like it's right up my alley. Thanks.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
You can use all dry base aragonite. 60 pounds is plenty.
That light would be fine for fish and mushroom corals, but I really think you should invest into a six or even eight lamp unit. Nova extreme makes a very food light, and bulbs are mounted in individual reflectors. The unit comes with a pretty quiet fan and lunar lights. Lighting is very important, and will be your biggest single expense. Flow rates and nutrient export Devices will be a close second.
I recommend two smaller heaters because if one fails, you have a backup. Also, two heaters provide a more even heat distribution, which greatly benefits the overall system. I only have one heater in my sump on my 20g right now, but when I can, I plan on getting another one.
The fish guy at the store somewhat knows what he is talking about. However I highly disagree with the use of tap water. I also never Said that you have to get a skimmer right away either. Adequate water changes is plenty for a lightly stocked tank, or a new aquarium. The more fish and coral, the more waste. You'll need more adequate filtraTion and you can accomplish more nutrient export with a skimmer. I personally use both a skimmer and an algae s rubber for nutrient export.
 
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