Building a sump :o
- Thread starter ca161406
- Start date
lion_crazz
Active Member
Ditch the bioballs and you will be good to go!
lion_crazz
Active Member
Yeah, they will help with sound reduction. However, they will need to be cleaned pretty frequently. I would just have the water come down, go through PVC and have the PVC piping dump into filter socks. This will give you much needed mechanical filtration as well.
aquaknight
Active Member
I think they only baffle the sound on most wet-dry's because of how they are setup? 99% of wet-drys have that dripping setup where the water rains down onto the bio-balls from those big ole sponges. On a normal sump-type set-up, noise is a good bit less.
As far as your design, what skimmer are you planning on running? If its an in-sump skimmer, look into how much water height the skimmer is required to sit in. Most usually require around 9"-11", so you might have to raise that first baffle height.
Also, the last baffle on your bubble trap should be the same height as the first. Otherwise it is ineffective and really only have two baffle for the bubble trap.
As far as your design, what skimmer are you planning on running? If its an in-sump skimmer, look into how much water height the skimmer is required to sit in. Most usually require around 9"-11", so you might have to raise that first baffle height.
Also, the last baffle on your bubble trap should be the same height as the first. Otherwise it is ineffective and really only have two baffle for the bubble trap.
ca161406
Member
yeah thats how i had planed it for a prefilter before the bio balls. ok so basicly i should just remove that whole chamber and just have pvc outlets at the bottom 
also i was wondering if there was a fail safe type thing to prevent flooding. i was thinking if theres enough space in the sump thats not occupied with water. and that because the overflows on the main tank are a lil below water level if the power shut off then the tank would drain to below the overflows and that wouldnt be enough to flood the sump. kinda lame description but i hope yeal know what im talking about so i can see if thats gonna work lol
also i was thinking of setting up a top off system. would the sensor go in the tank or the sump?
also i was wondering if there was a fail safe type thing to prevent flooding. i was thinking if theres enough space in the sump thats not occupied with water. and that because the overflows on the main tank are a lil below water level if the power shut off then the tank would drain to below the overflows and that wouldnt be enough to flood the sump. kinda lame description but i hope yeal know what im talking about so i can see if thats gonna work lol
also i was thinking of setting up a top off system. would the sensor go in the tank or the sump?
aquaknight
Active Member
Yea, in the event of a power outage, water will just back flow into the sump, and the water level will get higher. That's why it's important to never undersize your sump.
The ATO (auto top off) would go in the return pump area in the sump. That is the area that will loose water to evaporation.
The ATO (auto top off) would go in the return pump area in the sump. That is the area that will loose water to evaporation.
indigobluetc
Member
Dont mean to hijack this thread but I am also building well planning out a sump for my 135. Would it be better to have a separate place for the skimmer or just in the fuge will be ok?
jimmy40741
Member
ca161406, You didn't mention if your tank was drilled or not. If it's drilled then in the event of a power outage the tank will drain down to the lowest 'hole' in your tank whether it's the overflow or the return. If your tank is not drilled, then yes the tank will drain down to the overflow box, but due to gravity pulling down the water in the return line water will be syphoned down until it drops below your return. I just set up a 30 Long as a sump on my 125 and the best way I found to stop the syphon on the return is to install a check valve. As soon as the flow up stops on the return the valve shuts and you get 0 water going back into your sump from the return. I am using an overflow box and basically the only water going to my sump when the electricity is shut off is the amount of water in the lines going to the sump, and it only raises my level about an inch or so.
indigoblutc, I am no expert on sumps, as a matter of fact I just built my first one, but I read a lot on here and other places about sumps and changed my design a few times before I settled the one I thought would be best for me. There is a debate on putting the skimmer in the fuge because some say that you are skimming water that inhabitants of your fuge need. I don't know if this is correct because it would seem to me that if your skimmer was before the fuge then that would be the same as if it was in the fuge. I know that you definately don't want it in the return area because you will be introducing bubbles in that chamber that might get returned to your DT. Some people say to put it in the input chamber because your bubble trap will take care of the bubbles produced by the skimmer. So I guess it depends on if you are building a sump big enough for 3 or 4 chambers. If you have the room I'd build one with input->fuge->skimmer->return. If not then go with input/skimmer->fuge->return or input/skimmer->return<-fuge.
indigoblutc, I am no expert on sumps, as a matter of fact I just built my first one, but I read a lot on here and other places about sumps and changed my design a few times before I settled the one I thought would be best for me. There is a debate on putting the skimmer in the fuge because some say that you are skimming water that inhabitants of your fuge need. I don't know if this is correct because it would seem to me that if your skimmer was before the fuge then that would be the same as if it was in the fuge. I know that you definately don't want it in the return area because you will be introducing bubbles in that chamber that might get returned to your DT. Some people say to put it in the input chamber because your bubble trap will take care of the bubbles produced by the skimmer. So I guess it depends on if you are building a sump big enough for 3 or 4 chambers. If you have the room I'd build one with input->fuge->skimmer->return. If not then go with input/skimmer->fuge->return or input/skimmer->return<-fuge.
sman
Member
I too say ditch the bio balls. I have zero noise coming from my sump other than the skimmer. The only noise I have is coming from the tank drain inside the overflow.
Also raise the last baffle a bit.
Other than that looks about identical to the sump I just built and it works fabulusly.
Check valves on returns are great AS LONG AS YOU CLEAN THEM! I am speaking from experience. I myself used a small drill bit and put a "siphon break" in the return just below the waters surface. Ill see if I can get a video of it in action when I get out of work.
Also raise the last baffle a bit.
Other than that looks about identical to the sump I just built and it works fabulusly.
Check valves on returns are great AS LONG AS YOU CLEAN THEM! I am speaking from experience. I myself used a small drill bit and put a "siphon break" in the return just below the waters surface. Ill see if I can get a video of it in action when I get out of work.
ca161406
Member
my tank is drilled buut there is a pvc pipe that goes up to the top of the over flow so the water falls in from the top and not the very bottom. so the overflow is always filled to the top with water. i can find a pic if my describing is bad haha
and the last baffle as in on the bubble trap?
and would the check valve go on the lines going to the sump? im kinda confused on this because yeal said on the return line
and the last baffle as in on the bubble trap?
and would the check valve go on the lines going to the sump? im kinda confused on this because yeal said on the return line
