Calcium Reactor, opinions needed

dutch06

Member
I have a few options for a calcium reactor and would like some opinions since I know virtually nothing beyond my research which I'm not getting any definitive answers from. I have a $400 budget.
Option 1. My LFS has a used Korallin C1502 that he wants $200 for. He also has a new Milwaukee Instruments regulator that was ordered for a customer that never picked it up and he told me he well sell at cost for $120. (Which I have found online for $89.95.
) I have been told I can pick up a CO2 bottle for around $80. He also told me he would throw in a bag of media.
Option 2. A local club has a guy with a Azoo CO2 regulator with electronic solenoid and needle valve. A 20 pound cylinder CO2 tank that is 80% full. 3/4 or more of a 9 pound container of Gen-X Course reactor media, he wants $125 for it. (With this option, I would still have to buy the Korallin from my LFS for $200.)
Option 3. On --, there is an ad for a Reef Octopus CR140 with 5lb Co2 bottle, 2 month old Coralvue regulator w/solenoid and also a pinpoint PH meter. He wants $400 for it.
From my research I understand that a PH meter is almost a necessity. If this is true, Option 3 seems like my best bet although I'm not a big fan of Coralvue. I could go with Option 2 and purchase a PH Monitor for $63.50 online and still be under budget.
What's the difference between a PH monitor and PH controller? Sorry this is so long, I'm just not familiar with these products and I can't find hardly any reviews. Thank you for any responses and suggestions. And if anybody has a better idea please let me know.
 

scsinet

Active Member
I also think the Korallin is the way to go. I have the exact setup you listed.. the c1502 with a Milwaukee regulator (which if it's the one I'm thinking of also has a bubble counter and solenoid. It also comes with a top quality check valve, a MUST if you value your Co2 regulator!
A pH controller has the ability to turn a device off when the pH drops to a certain point, where a pH meter only displays the pH.
In my setup, I ran a length of Co2 tubing down to the garage below the tank where the Co2 system sits. My intention was always to run a line from the controller down there too, but what I did for temporary use when I started up was simply ran the Co2 continuously. If you take the time to goose up the Co2 rate slowly, there is very little risk of a pH crash. In the end, everything was so stable I saw no need to hook up the controller. My controller sits upstairs where I keep an eye on the pH, but it doesn't "control" anything. Mine stays rock solid at 8.3 24x7 with my reactor also running 24x7.
 

dutch06

Member
Thank you for the replies.
Ok, if I go with option one it maxes out my $400 budget. If I "goose up the Co2 rate slowly" can I still hook it up while I wait for the PH controller? I found one online for $90 but I was lucky to squeek the $400 out of the wife.

I just don't want to buy it and have it sit there while I wait for the $90 to appear. Thanks again.
SCS, do you have to do any additional dosing with the Korallin? I'm currently dosing 180ml a day of B-Ionic to keep up and it's getting quite expensive.
 

scsinet

Active Member
Yes you technically CAN, but keep in mind that when you first start up a calcium reactor - especially if you've never done it before - is when you need to keep a constant watch on your pH the most.
It's once you get er' going that you need to worry less and less. So... I'd wait unless you are willing to test pH chemically many times.
I dose Iodide, Strontium & Molybdenum (yes, I had to check the bottle for the correct spelling
), and Essential Elements.
I do not dose any buffer or calcium (no A&B stuff).
 

dutch06

Member
SCS last question, those elements aren't covered by your water changes? I got a 120 w/40g sump. I'm changing about 18 gallons every other week. So about 15%. I use Red Sea Coral Pro salt mix. I appreciate all the help.
 

scsinet

Active Member
I use a denitrator so I do water larger changes very infrequently.. about every 3 months, so I need to dose those elements to make up for the takeup from the livestock.
If you are doing 15% bi-weekly, then you certainly don't need to dose the elements. Iodide may be the only one you'd need, but even then that's only if you have a crapton of soft corals or a heavy invertebrate bioload.
 
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