Chiller pump question

[ifirefight]

I am adding a chiller to my set-up. I plan on using an extenal pump. I understand about head pressure. My question is will an external pump be able to "draw" (pull) water out of the sump? It needs to pull 18 inches roughly. You can see what Im thinking in my awesome drawing.

Thanks

 

[chilwil84]

only a self priming pump can draw up in that way. you can put a check valve on the line in the sump than fill water in the tube up to the pump before you connect it to the chiller (in a way priming it yourself) just remember the check valve will fail eventually and it will not start back up if air gets below the pump. i have my ehim return pump for my tank hooked up in that way and the check valve lasts over a year before allowing air to flow in.

 

[ifirefight]

Ok, thanks..I never thought of a check valve. Sounds like a great idea. What about a submersible pump???? Will that work,or do most people NOT use those for something like this?

 

[natclanwy]

A submersible pump would probably be the best solution unless you can drill your sump. You can also mount your pump as low as possible and then run your PVC over the side and to the bottom of your sump as long as the PVC is sealed you should never lose your prime and no need to rely on a check valve.

 

[scsinet]

The valve used in this kind of setup is actually called a "foot valve."
Regardless, it's hard on the pump and less than recommended. A submersible pump would work just fine for this, and be less complicated. I notice in your drawing that you are pumping from the sump to the DT, yet you also state that you are using a separate pump. I'm sure you aren't forgetting to factor in the additional flow from the sump to the DT (if you already have other pumps moving water to the DT), and have made sure your drain system can handle it.
I'll give you the standard lecture on using a dedicated pump on a chiller though... IF you use a chiller with a outboard controller (as opposed to one that has the thermostat right in the heat exchanger), and your chiller uses a dedicated pump, a "situation" can develop. Should that dedicated pump fail, you aren't as likely to notice. Now, if the chiller's temperature probe is in the sump, and calls for chillin', the chiller can start running with no flow, and never stop, since the chilled water never finds it way into the system. That'll cause it to freeze, which will ruin your day.
That's why if you have an outboard controller, I recommend using either a flow switch on the chiller to shut it down on loss of flow (Aquatic EcoSystems has them), or use the main pump, because if it fails you are certainly going to notice it and be more likely to take action. Chillers that have internal controllers don't have this problem.

 

[ifirefight]

Originally Posted by SCSInet
http:///forum/post/2582219
The valve used in this kind of setup is actually called a "foot valve."
Regardless, it's hard on the pump and less than recommended. A submersible pump would work just fine for this, and be less complicated. I notice in your drawing that you are pumping from the sump to the DT, yet you also state that you are using a separate pump. I'm sure you aren't forgetting to factor in the additional flow from the sump to the DT (if you already have other pumps moving water to the DT), and have made sure your drain system can handle it.
Great point (again). I am able to gate down my main (return) pump, I think that may help if need be. As far as the chiller goes I need between 540-960 GPHs. I have a single corner overflow,with only 1 hole/drain...However, I am NOT 100% sure of the size hole. I will have to remove the Durso and check.It has a bulkhead fitting...again not sure on size. What are the common sizes? As far as the internal controller....Im not certain.. It is a Current USA Prime 1/4 hp,Ranco controller,with the temp prob in the chiller,not the sump

 

[ifirefight]

Heres a pic of my sump...The little giant pumps the water back to the DT...the T with the clear tube "feeds" my skimmer.....Is it possible to ADD ONE MORE "T" to feed the chiller,therefore only using a SINGLE pump.

 

[ifirefight]

I think I answered my own question....follow me here... Instead of pumping my water directly to the DT like I have it now....re-route THAT tube through the chiller and then into the return I already have.

 

[chilwil84]

as long as the pupm will give you the flow you want back to your display tank it will work fine. i put my pump outside cause i was worried about heat.

 

[scsinet]

Originally Posted by ifirefight
http:///forum/post/2582293
I think I answered my own question....follow me here... Instead of pumping my water directly to the DT like I have it now....re-route THAT tube through the chiller and then into the return I already have.