Connecting tanks together...

[puffin04]

Well i have a three bedroom apartment and want to make one of the rooms my primary tank room. Right now i have two 125 one reef and one aggressive. Both have 55 gallon fuges as well. I also have a 75 gallon, a 110 gallon and a 55 gallon as well which both are reef tanks as well. I want to place all these tanks together in the room and connect them all together with say a 1500GPH or more external pump? Non of the tanks are drilled except the 55 gallon. It is going to be a tight fit but how would you do something like this? Reason for connection is stability and also will only have to test one tank. Also want to dial in my cal reactor in one system instead of buying more equipment. Thanks
Steffen Sparks

 

[fishfreak1242]

Here is an idea that might not work, but I am just throwing this out there. You could have all of the tanks in the same room and drill all of them and have them all drain into one giant sump. Then there would be a giant pump that would separate off into all of the tanks. The only flaw that I really see in my design is regulating how much each tank is draining and returning.

 

[scsinet]

I'm assuming you've considered the disadvantages of this, most importantly the spread of disease and parasites from one tank to the others.
That aside, U-Tube or Weir overflows (Lifereef, CPR, etc) on each tank will work for drains on each one, then just plumb a manifold for your returns. I'd run a 3" PVC pipe around the perimeter of the room with "T" fittings facing upwards and standpipes. Then just use a piece of flexible hose to dump from each overflow into the drain system. Of course, the drain pipe needs to be located at a higher level than the sump so it can drain, and the pipe should gradually slope down towards the sump, just like a sewer pipe in a home.
The return system should be an appropriately sized pipe, perhaps 1.5", with a valve on each outlet to regulate the flow going into each tank.
It's really all very simple, the challenge is going to be setting this all up as such that you don't damage the walls, etc.
By the way... I hope you are on a ground floor... all those tanks in one room may pose a dangerous live load on the floor if you are on an upper floor...

 

[puffin04]

I am aware of the spread of disease but will have a separate tank for QT. Tell me more about the Weir overflow? Do the tanks have to be leveled? Tell me more about the design... I was thinking like a closed loop system with a high GPH external pump. And have the refuge on there separate system. Would something like this work? Thanks the more info the better... Also i live on bottom floor for that reason. Thanks
Steffen Sparks

 

[puffin04]

Here is a layout. What you think? I was thinking of putting AC unit in the window and seal it air tight and have my RK2 turn it on when i gets hot. Thanks
Steffen Sparks

 

[scsinet]

Originally Posted by puffin04
http:///forum/post/2622334
I am aware of the spread of disease but will have a separate tank for QT. Tell me more about the Weir overflow? Do the tanks have to be leveled? Tell me more about the design... I was thinking like a closed loop system with a high GPH external pump. And have the refuge on there separate system. Would something like this work? Thanks the more info the better... Also i live on bottom floor for that reason. Thanks
Steffen Sparks
A weir overflow is just a particular type of continuous siphon overflow. There are two main styles of overflows that hang on the back of tanks, U-Tube and Wier. The Wier types are mainly marketed by CPR Aquatic. Wier is the only style of overflow I've ever used, but from what I've read and seen, they are both more expensive and not as reliable as U-Tube styles.
Of course the tanks need to be leveled, this is the case with any aquarium, for many reasons besides the overflows, most notably to keep the tank from breaking.

 

[puffin04]

Originally Posted by SCSInet
http:///forum/post/2622634
A weir overflow is just a particular type of continuous siphon overflow. There are two main styles of overflows that hang on the back of tanks, U-Tube and Wier. The Wier types are mainly marketed by CPR Aquatic. Wier is the only style of overflow I've ever used, but from what I've read and seen, they are both more expensive and not as reliable as U-Tube styles.
Of course the tanks need to be leveled, this is the case with any aquarium, for many reasons besides the overflows, most notably to keep the tank from breaking.
I Usually make my own overflow using PVC and it has worked pretty good so far. As for leveling i was referring to all the tanks being the same level or the same water level. Did not know if that will effect anything? Tell me more on how you would set this system at and at what flow per tank and what would be the return. Thanks
Steffen Sparks

 

[scsinet]

No, the tanks do not have to all be on the same level.
I don't know what desired flow you want in each tank. You'll want to add up the desired flow rates of each tank, then add 20% or so for head and plumbing loss, and size your return pump that way. Then of course your overflows and returns need to be sized to handle that flow.

 

[puffin04]

What flow rate would you recommend for this project. I know 1in will flow around 500GPH and 3/4 is alot less but easier to work with. Which one would you use? Are you saying to run 3in pipe around the room and then plumb the overflows into that and have that run off into a refuge? Then what inch would you run back as that return? What good external pump would you recommend? Thanks
Steffen Sparks
I don't know what desired flow you want in each tank. You'll want to add up the desired flow rates of each tank, then add 20% or so for head and plumbing loss, and size your return pump that way. Then of course your overflows and returns need to be sized to handle that flow.[/QUOTE]

 

[scsinet]

Yes, run 3" around the room. Place a "T" at each tank with the outlet facing up, and fix about a 24" long piece of pipe sticking up from that to create a standpipe. Then from each overflow, run a piece of flex hose and simply drop it into the pipe to allow water to flow down. That will allow the drain lines to "breathe" and keep your flow rates up.
The return line should be a 1.5" or so pipe going around the room, with a 1.5" to 1" reducing T on each tank, with a ball valve to regulate the flow at each tank.
I wouldn't run the entire flow through the fuge, I'd place a "T" on the drain line and run one to the sump's return and one to the fuge, that will reduce the flow through the fuge (good thing).
For the pump, I'd use a Sequence Manta Ray. Lots of folks swear by the low speed pumps (Dart, Snapper, etc), but they lack the head pressure for this application.

 

[puffin04]

Sequence Manta Ray
* Tank Size: 180-350gal
* Flow Rate @ 4` Head: 84gpm
* Max Head: 55ft
* Ave. Amps/ Watts @115V: 6.7A/771W
* Motor Speed: 1/4hp
* Inlet/Outlet: 1.5in / 1.5in
* Dimensions (L x W x H): 15.5in x 8.5in x 8.5in
* Motor Type: Baldor® TEFC
WOW 771Watts thats more then my MH lighting. The price is right just thats alot of watts.
I get what you are saying and will get to work right away. Thanks
Steffen Sparks

 

[scsinet]

Originally Posted by puffin04
http:///forum/post/2623850
Sequence Manta Ray
* Tank Size: 180-350gal
* Flow Rate @ 4` Head: 84gpm
* Max Head: 55ft
* Ave. Amps/ Watts @115V: 6.7A/771W
* Motor Speed: 1/4hp
* Inlet/Outlet: 1.5in / 1.5in
* Dimensions (L x W x H): 15.5in x 8.5in x 8.5in
* Motor Type: Baldor® TEFC
WOW 771Watts thats more then my MH lighting. The price is right just thats alot of watts.
I get what you are saying and will get to work right away. Thanks
Steffen Sparks
Well you can rest easy in knowing that sequence pumps are one of the, if not the, most energy efficient pumps in existence. If it draws 771w, then that's probably becuase that's what it takes.