Corals with these fish?
- Thread starter gamedawg
- Start date
B
boatdrinks
Guest
From my experience, zoos actually do a little better when the water conditions are less than pristine... If you have the lighting for them, trying to get a few zooanthid colonies started might be a good way to go...
lion_crazz
Active Member
Yes, with the trigger, you would be probably be okay to add some mushrooms or feather dusters. In most instances, a grouper should leave alone feather dusters and mushrooms, especially a docile grouper like the panther.
pco1988
Member
My 30gal reef tank is at about 200-250ppm nitrates (no water changes in over a year but there is over 70lbs. of rock and 50lbs. of CC.)
Yes this number is in fact true, I have tested it with several brands and the that is the average level, and yes they are brand new tests.
And as you can see the tank is doing great.
https://www.saltwaterfish.com/vb/showthread.php?t=185040
Philip
Yes this number is in fact true, I have tested it with several brands and the that is the average level, and yes they are brand new tests.
And as you can see the tank is doing great.
https://www.saltwaterfish.com/vb/showthread.php?t=185040
Philip
S
salt_hobbi
Guest
Ive got a Niger trigger, clown trigger ( clown is no bigger then a a quarter), Cow fish, and a couple Green chromis, and a tomatoe clown, ive got an anenome in the tank a pretty big tube anenome, some mushrooms, polyps, and stuff like that and none of them have ever touched one of them before. The one fish that will tocuh them though are puffers from my experiance.
hot883
Active Member
Originally Posted by pco1988
My 30gal reef tank is at about 200-250ppm nitrates (no water changes in over a year but there is over 70lbs. of rock and 50lbs. of CC.)
Yes this number is in fact true, I have tested it with several brands and the that is the average level, and yes they are brand new tests.
And as you can see the tank is doing great.
https://www.saltwaterfish.com/vb/showthread.php?t=185040
Philip
So you are saying that you have never changed the water? Not even 10% a week or month?
My 30gal reef tank is at about 200-250ppm nitrates (no water changes in over a year but there is over 70lbs. of rock and 50lbs. of CC.)
Yes this number is in fact true, I have tested it with several brands and the that is the average level, and yes they are brand new tests.
And as you can see the tank is doing great.
https://www.saltwaterfish.com/vb/showthread.php?t=185040
Philip
So you are saying that you have never changed the water? Not even 10% a week or month?
ithorian_r
Member
Originally Posted by Gamedawg
You mean WITH the trigger I could have a couple of these? COOL! I don't have good lighting for zoos, and I have an Eclipse, so I don't think I can put the right lighting in the balast. (correct name?)
you say you have eclipse lighting? just curious but what size tank do you have??
You mean WITH the trigger I could have a couple of these? COOL! I don't have good lighting for zoos, and I have an Eclipse, so I don't think I can put the right lighting in the balast. (correct name?)
you say you have eclipse lighting? just curious but what size tank do you have??
unleashed
Active Member
Originally Posted by Gamedawg
What is the maximum nitrates that the feathers and mushrooms can live in? Does it have to be 0, or can it be like 40 or less?
you nitrates are concidered toxit at even levels of more than 20 if your nitrates are at 40 and above your fish are even in danger you realy need to get those levels right before trying to add any type of corals.as close to 0 is you best bet
What is the maximum nitrates that the feathers and mushrooms can live in? Does it have to be 0, or can it be like 40 or less?
you nitrates are concidered toxit at even levels of more than 20 if your nitrates are at 40 and above your fish are even in danger you realy need to get those levels right before trying to add any type of corals.as close to 0 is you best bet
55gsw
Member
IME the large featherdusters are more sensitive to nitrates than mushrooms are. So you might want to cross them off your list. First thing you should consider is whether you have enough lighting to even consider mushrooms or polyps. What wattage do you have and what type of bulbs are they?
Next you have to consider what corals are able to withstand your higher nitrates (which will continue to rise as your fish grow), and lastly you have to consider if any of these corals pose a danger to your fish. The last sounds weird but this is what happened to me. I had a nice volitans lionfish. At the time he was maybe 7" or so in length. I had trained him to eat "dead" foods and he was such a glutton that he would even take flake if the pieces were large enough. One day as I was leaving the house I noticed that one of my mushroom corals had detached from it's rock and was floating around the tank. I figured I would attach it when I got home. Well, when I got home I couldn't find the mushroom but the lionfish had a suspicious bulge in his belly. After that he became very, very ill. Went dark, stopped eating then he began to pace the tank. Night and day he never stopped. About the best analogy I can think of is a horse with colic. Going round and round trying to leave the pain behind. This went on for 3 MONTHS. Then he finally stopped. I noticed a very hard type of fecal matter in the tank (I'm sure he finally passed it). Even so, he would not eat and I had to almost force feed him, but he would only take very, very small amounts. After that he became susceptible to every illness you can imagine. Cloudy eyes, fin rot, ich, excessive slime, etc... I ended up having to put him in a QT almost permanently but in the end, the tank broke and he died.
Moral of the story? Never, EVER will I recommend having a 'trained' lionfish and mushroom corals!!
IMO instead of live corals which may or may not live in your tank (again, your nitrates will only rise as your fish grow), why not consider some fake corals? There are some really nice ones on the market and you never have to worry about dosing, or lighting, or waterflow or whether your fish want to eat them or not!
Next you have to consider what corals are able to withstand your higher nitrates (which will continue to rise as your fish grow), and lastly you have to consider if any of these corals pose a danger to your fish. The last sounds weird but this is what happened to me. I had a nice volitans lionfish. At the time he was maybe 7" or so in length. I had trained him to eat "dead" foods and he was such a glutton that he would even take flake if the pieces were large enough. One day as I was leaving the house I noticed that one of my mushroom corals had detached from it's rock and was floating around the tank. I figured I would attach it when I got home. Well, when I got home I couldn't find the mushroom but the lionfish had a suspicious bulge in his belly. After that he became very, very ill. Went dark, stopped eating then he began to pace the tank. Night and day he never stopped. About the best analogy I can think of is a horse with colic. Going round and round trying to leave the pain behind. This went on for 3 MONTHS. Then he finally stopped. I noticed a very hard type of fecal matter in the tank (I'm sure he finally passed it). Even so, he would not eat and I had to almost force feed him, but he would only take very, very small amounts. After that he became susceptible to every illness you can imagine. Cloudy eyes, fin rot, ich, excessive slime, etc... I ended up having to put him in a QT almost permanently but in the end, the tank broke and he died.
Moral of the story? Never, EVER will I recommend having a 'trained' lionfish and mushroom corals!!
IMO instead of live corals which may or may not live in your tank (again, your nitrates will only rise as your fish grow), why not consider some fake corals? There are some really nice ones on the market and you never have to worry about dosing, or lighting, or waterflow or whether your fish want to eat them or not!
gamedawg
Member
The tank is a 55, but pretty soon I'll be going to a 100 at least. There are 2 lights on each half of the tank, one flourescent, and one blue on each side. I don't know the wattage. My nitrates are usually a little more than 40, but if I planned on putting any mushrooms, etc in there, I'd start getting those way more under control. Right now, the nitrates don't bother my fish, and until just about a month ago, my yellow tang was fine. (I'm sure you've seen my HLLE post) He has been fine for about 2 years, until now.
I am wary of trying anything in my 55, but I have been learning more about mushrooms and other non-special lighting stuff for my 4 gallon. I want to get a tulip anemone, a tiny hermet, a tiny shrimp, and a tiny fish to start a little nano tank. It is cycling right now.
I am wary of trying anything in my 55, but I have been learning more about mushrooms and other non-special lighting stuff for my 4 gallon. I want to get a tulip anemone, a tiny hermet, a tiny shrimp, and a tiny fish to start a little nano tank. It is cycling right now.