nm reef
Active Member
Before I post the article that was provided by Graham(thanks again for a outstanding contribution) I want to acknowledge that this weeks feature isn't actually a coral. But a lot of us keep them...and they are definitely reef related...and I wanna see pictures of the ones you each keep! Plus provide all the information and experience you can...because to me personally these are some of the most diverse and facinating species available. Not to mention the fact that they are simply beautiful!
This weeks Coral of the week (You usually you do not use the "T" in COTW, it really should be COW- Tridacna Clams. Plus, clams are invertebrates shouldn't be counted as a coral) is Tridacna Clams.
There are many different species of Tridacna clams, including Tridacna crocea, derasa, gigas, hippopus, maxima, and squasoma. All of which house zooxanthellae as they grow.
Before you read on, it's important to know that smaller clams depend on regular feedings of phytoplankton. You should get a lot of phytoplankton in the water column, instead of target feeding the clam. The clams gills can easily get clogged if they are aggressively target fed. The larger they get, the less they depend on phytoplankton for their nutrients. At around 3," the clams diet usually consists of mostly the zooxanthellae within its tissues, although phytoplankton is still part of the diet.
Now I'll start with T. derasa:
In nature, T. derasa is found sitting on the sand bottom or coral rubble in shallow waters. As with most clams, metal halides are recommend. However, there have been many successes from hobbyists keeping T. derasa under VHO or PC lighting in shallower tanks (most less than 20" tall). Be aware that T. derasa is known for getting big in a short amount of time, usually around 20" in aquariums. It's a very quick grower that should be housed in a large sized aquarium.
Tridacna gigas is the largest of all known Tridacna clam species. T. gigas can quickly outgrow smaller sized reef aquariums. T. gigas adapts well to most aquarium lighting. In a tank lit with metal halides, time must be taken to slowly acclimate T. gigas to the light. In nature, T. gigas is found in deeper waters where pH, temperature, and salinity are extremely stable. It is therefore paramount that you aim to keep these parameters as stable as possible.
T. Hippopus is only one of two of the Tridacna in the genus hippopus and is often confused with the other Tridacna species, due to its size, shape and color. H. hippopus is the least demanding of strong light and do well, in most tanks, under VHOs or PCs. If you run metal halides, aclamate it slowly to the intense lighting
Tridacna squamosa, one of the larger species of Tridacna clam, is less demanding of intense light levels. In nature, T. squamosa is found in deeper waters living on the substrate or coral rubble and often near a large coral head for protection from currents. VHO or PC lighting is fine for these clams in most standard aquariums. However, metal halide is recommended. T. Squamosa is documented of getting up to 12" large in aquariums. They also grow quickly.
Despite the fact that Tridacna crocea is the smallest giant clam species, it is considered to be the most colorful species. T. crocea come from similar areas of the reef as T. maxima. However, T. crocea are often found slightly higher up on the reef top where they have adapted to boring into the rock to better protect themselves from surges and other strong currents. We therefore recommend that not only must they be kept under intense metal halide but also positioned up on the rocks of your reef aquarium. The T. Crocea will usually release an acid based substance used to break down the rock. The Crocea will eventually bury in the rock, where it will be almost impossible to get out.
T. maxima is one of the most common giant clam species and has the most widespread distribution of all the Tridacna. T. maxima clams are available in a wide variety of colors and patterns. In nature, T. maxima are found in shallow, almost crystal clear, waters where they are exposed to intense sunlight all day long. Therefore it's recommend that T. maxima only be kept under metal halide lighting, although a few people on this board have had some success with keeping the T. maxima under PC's or VHO's. T. maxima can often be found in "mutated" colors, such as the Tear Drop maxima. It is usually collected around Vietnam and Solomon islands. Most (if not all) of the Tear drops that came from the Vietnam have died. Many are collected improperly, and are pulled off the rockwork tearing their byssal gland. This usually ends up fatal. In the Solomon islands, many are chipped off the rockwork and do not have damaged byssal glands. Even though they don't have damaged byssal glands doesn't mean they're easy-to-keep.
As with all clams, most should be housed in mature aquariums. In my opinion, around a year is considered "mature" for clams, but, that's only my personal opinion. Many think 7 months, many think 6. Clams should also have a stable calcium and alkalinity level. The clams shell is calcium carbonate based, thus why clams are calcareous invertebrates. An alkalinity of around 8-13dKH and a Calcium of 400-450ppm is recommended. Stable water conditions including pH, temperature and salinity should also be maintained at all times to prevent any stress on the clam.
As with any other creature that you buy, remember to do as much research as possible before buying any clam.
Good luck,
Graham
This weeks Coral of the week (You usually you do not use the "T" in COTW, it really should be COW- Tridacna Clams. Plus, clams are invertebrates shouldn't be counted as a coral) is Tridacna Clams.
There are many different species of Tridacna clams, including Tridacna crocea, derasa, gigas, hippopus, maxima, and squasoma. All of which house zooxanthellae as they grow.
Before you read on, it's important to know that smaller clams depend on regular feedings of phytoplankton. You should get a lot of phytoplankton in the water column, instead of target feeding the clam. The clams gills can easily get clogged if they are aggressively target fed. The larger they get, the less they depend on phytoplankton for their nutrients. At around 3," the clams diet usually consists of mostly the zooxanthellae within its tissues, although phytoplankton is still part of the diet.
Now I'll start with T. derasa:
In nature, T. derasa is found sitting on the sand bottom or coral rubble in shallow waters. As with most clams, metal halides are recommend. However, there have been many successes from hobbyists keeping T. derasa under VHO or PC lighting in shallower tanks (most less than 20" tall). Be aware that T. derasa is known for getting big in a short amount of time, usually around 20" in aquariums. It's a very quick grower that should be housed in a large sized aquarium.
Tridacna gigas is the largest of all known Tridacna clam species. T. gigas can quickly outgrow smaller sized reef aquariums. T. gigas adapts well to most aquarium lighting. In a tank lit with metal halides, time must be taken to slowly acclimate T. gigas to the light. In nature, T. gigas is found in deeper waters where pH, temperature, and salinity are extremely stable. It is therefore paramount that you aim to keep these parameters as stable as possible.
T. Hippopus is only one of two of the Tridacna in the genus hippopus and is often confused with the other Tridacna species, due to its size, shape and color. H. hippopus is the least demanding of strong light and do well, in most tanks, under VHOs or PCs. If you run metal halides, aclamate it slowly to the intense lighting
Tridacna squamosa, one of the larger species of Tridacna clam, is less demanding of intense light levels. In nature, T. squamosa is found in deeper waters living on the substrate or coral rubble and often near a large coral head for protection from currents. VHO or PC lighting is fine for these clams in most standard aquariums. However, metal halide is recommended. T. Squamosa is documented of getting up to 12" large in aquariums. They also grow quickly.
Despite the fact that Tridacna crocea is the smallest giant clam species, it is considered to be the most colorful species. T. crocea come from similar areas of the reef as T. maxima. However, T. crocea are often found slightly higher up on the reef top where they have adapted to boring into the rock to better protect themselves from surges and other strong currents. We therefore recommend that not only must they be kept under intense metal halide but also positioned up on the rocks of your reef aquarium. The T. Crocea will usually release an acid based substance used to break down the rock. The Crocea will eventually bury in the rock, where it will be almost impossible to get out.
T. maxima is one of the most common giant clam species and has the most widespread distribution of all the Tridacna. T. maxima clams are available in a wide variety of colors and patterns. In nature, T. maxima are found in shallow, almost crystal clear, waters where they are exposed to intense sunlight all day long. Therefore it's recommend that T. maxima only be kept under metal halide lighting, although a few people on this board have had some success with keeping the T. maxima under PC's or VHO's. T. maxima can often be found in "mutated" colors, such as the Tear Drop maxima. It is usually collected around Vietnam and Solomon islands. Most (if not all) of the Tear drops that came from the Vietnam have died. Many are collected improperly, and are pulled off the rockwork tearing their byssal gland. This usually ends up fatal. In the Solomon islands, many are chipped off the rockwork and do not have damaged byssal glands. Even though they don't have damaged byssal glands doesn't mean they're easy-to-keep.
As with all clams, most should be housed in mature aquariums. In my opinion, around a year is considered "mature" for clams, but, that's only my personal opinion. Many think 7 months, many think 6. Clams should also have a stable calcium and alkalinity level. The clams shell is calcium carbonate based, thus why clams are calcareous invertebrates. An alkalinity of around 8-13dKH and a Calcium of 400-450ppm is recommended. Stable water conditions including pH, temperature and salinity should also be maintained at all times to prevent any stress on the clam.
As with any other creature that you buy, remember to do as much research as possible before buying any clam.
Good luck,
Graham
