COTW: Sarcophyton sp.

[nm reef]

Figured it was time to post another feature coral...works been killin me and I've not had the time to keep up on a weekly basis. So forgive the lapse between COTW's.
This weeks coral is often among the first corals added by folks new to the hobby. It is a very hardy coral that readily adapts to conditions. They can thrive in assorted currents and lighting ... and can be a rapid growing speciman if adaquate conditions are provided.
Common names are toadstool coral/leather coral/mushroom leather...they are in general a hardy & easily maintained speciman.The tissue is sort of soft and leather textured and can be easily torn or cut.For the most part these corals depend on zooxanthellae for nutrition and do not appear to respond to direct feedings...but I do maintain a regular addition of DT's Phytoplankton. From time to time sarcophyton will shed a thin layer from the surface and during this time may appear to be stressed or even deteroriating...this is a normal process and may be attempts to remove/expel accumulated algaes and waste. A moderate current and maybe even gentle blasting with a turkey baster helps remove the shed. Most times the coral returns to its normal condition within a few days.This is also a coral that can easily be propagated ... cuttings from the origional colony can be glued or rubber banded in place and will quickly attach forming a new colony.
I currently keep the one pictured below....I've had it now for about 20 months. It went through a period where I thought I had lost it...but as the pics show it has recovered very nicely! I've also got a small frag currently growing that may soon be traded or returned to my favorite LFS for future purchase credit. I keep mine low on the reef...actually on the base of a rock buried in the DSB. It has a moderate to high current and seldom sheds...when it was in a milder current it seemed to shed a lot more often. During the lights out periods it does close up but is normally the first coral to expand in the morning. This is not the most colorful or active of corals...but it is easy to maintain and I've always liked mine!
This pic is a group shot of my sarcophyton from a few months ago.

This is a closer view from the same pic...

So now its ya'alls turn....provide information/experience/pics as you see fit.

 

[justinx]

Hey, in case you didnt know, I just found one of these
Except, i am a little concerned right now. Today was the first full day in my tank, and it is constantly closing and opening during the day, but when the lights go out, it is wide open. Do i have it under too much lighting? It is in the top of the water column.
I really like mine, it is exactly what i looked for, for quite some time. You can see a picture of it in the photo contest.

 

[j21kickster]

wow 39 views and only 1 reply- gj NM- i dont have any in my tanks b/c they get too large but they are awesome corals- good canidates for a first coral in an established tank with propper lighting

 

[rook]

Here are my leathers. The one on the right is a type of toadstool and the one on the left is a finger leather. Very easy to care for. I have had these for around two years without one problem.

 

[rook]

Close up.

 

[richard rendos]

This is my sarcophyton elegance...

 

[nm reef]

I keep a few other leathers also...here is a pic with a small finger frag that is starting to grow real well...and 2 of my cabbage leathers. All are low maintenance and hardy...not as flashy as some other corals. I still like 'em though!

 

[crazy4reefs]

this is one of my corals, i think it is a leather but was wondering if it is a toadstool ?

 

[stacyt]

Heres a pic of my toadstool. One of the few that survived my recent tank crash.

 

[slowest is fastest]

Although some may of already seen this I thought I would repost it here as well.
... The majority of the content of this post is MY experience and opinions and should be taken as such. Since Leather corals cover a broad range of different corals I will focus on the common Umbrella or Toadstool leathers, as they seem to be the topic of several recent posts.
Most Sarcophyton sp have very similar care requirements. A few things to consider when contemplating keeping Sarcophyton sp would include, age of the setup, water quality, lighting, other livestock in the aquarium.
While Sarcophyton sp is considered a very hardy, tolerant coral the basics still apply. It makes a great first coral but is still susceptible to problems associated with a new tank. The setup needs to have reached a level of stability so as the water parameters are no longer fluctuating on a daily basis. Simply zeroing out your ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels is not always enough. The water and the quality of the water will mature with the tank in time but time it will take. There is long lists of documented success with many different types of soft corals in tanks younger than 8 weeks, I personally believe that unless you have several older systems or years of experience to draw on, rushing any coral into your tank before 8 weeks is flirting with a potential loss. Use the first 8 weeks to get to know your setup and what is happening. Develop good husbandry and a regular maintenance schedule. Did your aquascaping turn out the way you wanted etc? Hopefully your setup will bring you years of pleasure. Do not cause yourself more problems by moving to fast. SLOWEST IS FASTEST after all.
Water quality is one of, if not the most important factors in a saltwater aquarium. Terms like ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate, silicates, diatoms, calcium, alkalinity, PH and salinity are just some of the more common things you will run into. All are important to the water quality. Take some time to learn about these (remember those first 8 weeks) you will benefit in the end and so will your livestock. Sarcophyton sp like all corals will be healthier the better the water is. That means ammonia and nitrite at an undetectable level nitrates less than 10 ppm (parts per million) and phosphates less than 0.1 ppm, Temperature falls in a range of 79-82 with small spikes in either direction also acceptable. The PH should hover around 8.2. Can Sarcophyton sp be kept outside of these ranges…. Absolutely, these levels are simply what I strive for and what has worked well for me.
Lighting is one of the most debated topics in the hobby. Rather than perpetuate that debate here I will only give the guidelines I use. Hearing watts per gallon, intensity, PAR, PUR etc always drove me crazy. The only way I can explain what has become second nature to me (how much lighting I have and where a coral should be placed) is by using a uniform depth and a “watts per square foot” of surface area of the tank. For Sarcophyton sp I have found that if provided at least 27.5 watts per square foot of surface area, of direct light at a distance no greater than 10 inches from the light source using a polished reflector and no tank cover, a Sarcophyton sp can be successfully kept. This calculation rarely works out to even, applicable bulb wattage so when in doubt round up. For example a 29-gallon tank measures 30x12x18. The surface area is 30x12 or 2.5 square feet. At 27.5 watts per square foot the 29 gallon tank would need 68.75 watts of total lighting. With no bulb or combination of bulbs available (to my knowledge) to achieve 68.75 watts, rounding (upward) is necessary.
Other livestock in the tank is important to the degree that you want to make sure the Sarcophyton sp will co-exist with other inhabitants successfully. Fish that may nip at or take up residence in the Sarcophyton sp will only serve to stress the coral. Stress leads more often then not to decline in health. Research carefully the habits of fish before introducing them or the Sarcophyton sp to an existing setup that include fish to avoid problems. Be sure to leave plenty of room for growth between the Sarcophyton sp and other corals. Stinging corals will often win the war against an encroaching Sarcophyton sp. Other encrusting corals like gorgonian and star polyps can and do encrust the stalk, care should be taken not to allow these encrusting mats to strangle the leather.
One of the single least expensive positive changes that can be made in most aquariums is the addition of more current. Sarcophyton sp enjoys a random moderate current and need enough current to keep it clean and free from algae and detritus. Sarcophyton sp will close up and skin over with a shiny waxy coating which it will shed in an attempt to clean itself or in response to other forms of stress like shipping. Without ample current to remove this layer it further compounds the problem and may lead to additional intervention on the part of the hobbyist. Normally just redirecting existing current or holding the coral in front of a powerhead will take care of the problem. If left un-corrected it may become necessary to remove the coral and clean it with a soft cloth or soft bristled toothbrush. It is much easier once established to provide enough current to avoid this rather than removing the coral every few week to clean it and thereby subjecting it to more unnecessary stress. Once closed and covered from stress, either due to shipping or something tank related, the Sarcophyton sp can remain closed for several days. Generally this is no cause for concern and only after 7-10 days (provided everything else in the tank is normal) should you look for additional things that may be causing a problem. I have had several Sarcophyton sp for years without ever seeing them skin over.
Danger Signs
If you notice any of the following then action on the part of the hobbyist in my opinion is needed.
Coral stays completely closed for more than 7 days.
You notice any sign of deterioration(rot).
The stalk is shriveled and wrinkled and has a hard “woody” feeling to the touch.
If the stalk and cap are full, smooth and soft to the touch but is not opening generally there is no cause for concern. Additionally if the polyps are coming out either partially or entirely but not opening on the ends of the polyp the Sarcophyton sp may just need more time to adjust or minor changes to water quality, lighting or current is usually all that is needed to bring it around.
If you purchase a healthy piece, that is a Sarcophyton sp that you see fully open at the LSF with no signs of decay or rot, and provide it with a stable base, good current water and lighting it will grow and thrive and be one of the most trouble free pieces that you ever keep.
HTH
SiF

 

[pyro383]

mine

 

[stacyt]

Heres a couple of pics of a freinds toadstool. He's had it for quite a few years.

 

[stacyt]

Another

 

[justinx]

Slowest is Fastest,
OUTSTANDING INFORMATION! very indepth and detailed. It sounds like you have done your homework. Please share some more info on some other corals!!!

 

[cmpowell]

Thats a beautiful tank Stacyt.I will put the leathers on my research and future purchase list.NM clam looks great btw.Have fun on your trip to Branson.I live about 2 hrs north and was there in march on the wife and i's anniversary.Check out the Imax theater while your there.Sorry strayed from the topic.

 

[thomas712]

A very good first coral and great information. Wish I could post a pic of mine. some day I will afford that digi camera .
What about the use of phosphate removers and the sarchophyton or other leathers>? anybody notice any harmful affects with the use of PO4 removers?
Thomas

 

[nm reef]

Thomas712...good question. Phosphate sponges have been mentioned as a source of irratation(sic) for many leathers. I use Kents Phosphate sponge once a month or so for about 48 hrs each time. I have never had a problem with any of the leathers in my system.The Phosphate sponge is located remote from the display in a high flow area of the sump...I use about one third of a cup in a 300 micron bag for a limited amount of time. In my situation/circumstances it has not been a problem.
cmpowell...a trip to branson is always fun...even back in the late 60's and early 70's when Branson was just another little town in the southern part of Missouri.I grew up in Fredericktown and after military service returned to go to college at SEMO...so the general area is sort of like home to me.

 

[rook]

I was considering moving my leather corals, but to do so I would need to cut them from the rock they are attached to and glue them to a new rock. Would this be a bad idea? Or, would it be no problem?
What would be the best way to achieve this?
Thanks,

 

[slowest is fastest]

JustinX - thanks ....oh and NM Reef does a great job with the COTW so I will stick to adding when I can instead
Thomas712- Ditto on the use of Phospate removers. I have used the sponges and the media...both in a high flow are of the sump or a powerfilter. I normally remove it after 24 hours. Like NM Reef I have seen no problems ....YET
Rook - To move your leathers you could cut them and be OK.
Are you relocating them elsewhere in the same tank? Are they on a rock that could be removed with little effort and if so is it a small or thin rock? Rather then cutting the leather from the rock could you not simply move the rock with the leater still attached to it? If the rock is to large .....break it This would result in less stress for the coral and give you a chance to change any aquascaping you are not happy with....just a thought
Do you intend to "prune" them during the move? If you intend to move the leather(s) and propagate (prune) them in the process than removing it from the tank first is my preference. If that is not possible then cutting it off the rock underwater can be done just remove it afterward to finish the trimming.
SiF

 

[rook]

Well the rock is very large and it is a main rock in my aquascaping, thus I will not be able to move the rock without tearing dowm the whole tank, which just is not going to happen.
I plan to simply move the leathers to another location in the same tank. I do not plan on pruning them in anyway, or fraging them, just move them.
If I do this would I simply use a razor blade and cut the stalk as close to the rock as possible, and us super glue gel to attach them to the new spot?
How detrimental of a move would this be? I know many people have very easily and successfully fragged leathers, thus I figured moving them would be no problem.