Couple questions about Plumbing my tank.

wyattray

New Member
Couple bits of information.

  • Plan on using acrylic tubes

  • The fuge has 2 intakes.
    I plan on spliting the intakes with a Y adapter.
Let me know what yall think, I wanna get this tank filled by the end of the month



 

geridoc

Well-Known Member
I assume you mean PVC tubes, not acrylic. Otherwise, should work, but remember that the flow rate is limited by the smallest diameter pipe, regardless of how many "Y" fittings create additional cross sectional area. Keep posting the build, it should be fun.
 
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saxman

Guest
The way I read it is that the OP wants to use "soft" vinyl tubing to run the water with PVC connections, which is how I plumb our systems. I honestly wouldn't plumb my systems any other way.
My question would be why the split drain lines running back into a single line if there's only one standpipe? I'm not a fan of valving the drain lines either, since the rate of flow is determined by the return pump.
 

wyattray

New Member
Im guessing the fuge is setup for a reef tank with two out puts. I was basically doing it for look, I just didnt want a open peace on the fuge, but maybe I can look for a replacement part.
 

wyattray

New Member
Couple more questions...
1 Any recommendations on what site to order my plumbing from, home depot is unreliable around here and the lfs is like $40 for 10ft of tubing.
2 Do y'all use any sealing glue for the slip on fittings? or just a clamp?
3. For the bulk heads one end is male and one if female for the return portion, should the male be on the bottom or top or should I replace this with a different bulk head that has a slip on both sides?
I can use one of these http://www.***********.com/Insert_Fitting_Slip_x_Insert_Hose_Barb_Fittings-Plumbing_Parts-FT6533-FIFTFIHB-vi.html
let me know If I need to clarify any of this.
 

beaslbob

Well-Known Member
Don't use the ball valves.
Assuming you have a drilled tank the drain pipes should go pu to the level you want the tank to run at. Then the water drained to the sump will just whatever is being returned to the tank by the pump.
Test test and test again.
Test:
1) power outage does not caues a flood.
2) power return results in normal operation.
3) drain failure (blockage or for HOB siphon break) does not result in tank floods. (sump runs out of water before the display floods).
my .02
 
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saxman

Guest
For slip connections, you'll need to use PVC cement. However, I prefer to use threaded connections on my setups (I use black thickwall tubing and threaded PVC fittings for our setups). Unless the hose connection is going to be underwater, or someplace it will get wet, I just use regular hose clamps as opposed to the plastic ones, as I feel they work better and are cheaper. For underwater clamps, i just use zipties.
Here's one of our setups (minus the drain hoses):
 
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saxman

Guest
I think the stuff I used last was made by Lee's (printed on the tubing), but as long as it's "thickwall", the brand doesn't matter, IME. We use black tubing to mitigate internal algae growth (I used to used the stuff with the white braiding in it, but that system had a fuge lamp and I had to swap it out because it became "gunky" with algae, so I learned a lesson on that system.
Most e-tailers carry the right stuff (I didn't see it here in the SWF store, only drain hoses)...it's places like HD and Lowe's that have the thinwall tubing that tends to collapse on you if you even look at it funny.
A hint when working with the tubing...heat some water in the microwave for about 2.5 - 3 mins, and dip the end of the hose you want to shove onto the barb into it for about 15 secs...goes on like butter. Also, if you use threaded connections, be generous with the teflon tape...use more than you think you need, and your connection won't leak.
 
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