brokendeck
Active Member
I have Cyano in my tank. How do I get ride of it?
Cyano?
- Thread starter brokendeck
- Start date
meowzer
Moderator
Originally Posted by Brokendeck
http:///forum/post/3037816
I have Cyano in my tank. How do I get ride of it?
First find out why you have it...
Check your phosphates....
nitrates...how much do you feed (excess nutrients is a cause)
is your flow adequate
http:///forum/post/3037816
I have Cyano in my tank. How do I get ride of it?
First find out why you have it...
Check your phosphates....
nitrates...how much do you feed (excess nutrients is a cause)
is your flow adequate
brokendeck
Active Member
Originally Posted by meowzer
http:///forum/post/3037832
First find out why you have it...
Check your phosphates....
nitrates...how much do you feed (excess nutrients is a cause)
is your flow adequate
I dont have a phosphate test. If you remember, it was on the LR I bought and I had a thread up and in the end everyone said it was red coliane. It has now gotten soft, and is on a few of my rocks.
http:///forum/post/3037832
First find out why you have it...
Check your phosphates....
nitrates...how much do you feed (excess nutrients is a cause)
is your flow adequate
I dont have a phosphate test. If you remember, it was on the LR I bought and I had a thread up and in the end everyone said it was red coliane. It has now gotten soft, and is on a few of my rocks.
pezenfuego
Active Member
I still want to stick with the theory that you have both the coraline and the cyano
In any case, if you think you have it now, start doing water changes rigorously before it gets out of hand.
DO NOT use chemicals.
In any case, if you think you have it now, start doing water changes rigorously before it gets out of hand.
DO NOT use chemicals.
pezenfuego
Active Member
OH. I almost forgot. Pick up a phosphate test kit and any other you don't have
meowzer
Moderator
Originally Posted by spanko
http:///forum/post/3037963
Just a question Pez, because I often wonder when I hear this, why do you believe a phosphate test kit is needed?
Not to interfere with this question Spanko...BUT I thought high phosphates had something to do with Cyano....please let me know If I am wrong ....I would like to be sure
http:///forum/post/3037963
Just a question Pez, because I often wonder when I hear this, why do you believe a phosphate test kit is needed?
Not to interfere with this question Spanko...BUT I thought high phosphates had something to do with Cyano....please let me know If I am wrong ....I would like to be sure
spanko
Active Member
I'll address my feelings - beliefs after we hear back from Pez. Prior to my current position as president of a contract service I was the president of a manufacturing company providing parts to the automotive industry and will explain why I ask the question and by take on phosphates and other nastiness later.
pezenfuego
Active Member
Phosphate test kits aren't necessary necessarily and I see where you're coming from. They usually don't pick up on nonorganic phosphates rendering them nearly useless and the results are often not conclusive since the algae or in this case bacteria are utilizing all the phosphates. Huff...wait, I am supposed to defend my statement...
I wrote that mainly to ensure he had all the other necessary kits ie calcium, alkalinity, pH, etc...
I did have a reason though and here it is.
Testing your source water for phosphates is important. Phosphates can come from the salt or ro water. It's just something handy to have around and it is very inexpensive.
Sorry it took so long to get back to you, I'm doing homework
I wrote that mainly to ensure he had all the other necessary kits ie calcium, alkalinity, pH, etc...
I did have a reason though and here it is.
Testing your source water for phosphates is important. Phosphates can come from the salt or ro water. It's just something handy to have around and it is very inexpensive.
Sorry it took so long to get back to you, I'm doing homework
ifirefight
Active Member
Originally Posted by spanko
http:///forum/post/3037981
I'll address my feelings - beliefs after we hear back from Pez. Prior to my current position as president of a contract service I was the president of a manufacturing company providing parts to the automotive industry and will explain why I ask the question and by take on phosphates and other nastiness later.
I think I know where you are going with this... I am under the impression that you can test for phosphates all you want.....but it will read low to zero because the cyano is using it all up... Thats the way I understand it...please correct me if I am wrong.
http:///forum/post/3037981
I'll address my feelings - beliefs after we hear back from Pez. Prior to my current position as president of a contract service I was the president of a manufacturing company providing parts to the automotive industry and will explain why I ask the question and by take on phosphates and other nastiness later.
I think I know where you are going with this... I am under the impression that you can test for phosphates all you want.....but it will read low to zero because the cyano is using it all up... Thats the way I understand it...please correct me if I am wrong.
pezenfuego
Active Member
Originally Posted by ifirefight
http:///forum/post/3037998
I think I know where you are going with this... I am under the impression that you can test for phosphates all you want.....but it will read low to zero because the cyano is using it all up... Thats the way I understand it...please correct me if I am wrong.
You're right
That's where he's going with it I think. Cyanobacteria will always be a better phosphate tester than a phosphate testing kit...
http:///forum/post/3037998
I think I know where you are going with this... I am under the impression that you can test for phosphates all you want.....but it will read low to zero because the cyano is using it all up... Thats the way I understand it...please correct me if I am wrong.
You're right
brokendeck
Active Member
I'll get some pics up of the cynao on my rocks. Im gonna try to suck it out with a siphon when I do a water change. I cant do it today. I had knee surgery this morning.
meowzer
Moderator
Originally Posted by Brokendeck
http:///forum/post/3038008
I'll get some pics up of the cynao on my rocks. Im gonna try to suck it out with a siphon when I do a water change. I cant do it today. I had knee surgery this morning.
Hope all is okay....
try to get a pic before the w/c
http:///forum/post/3038008
I'll get some pics up of the cynao on my rocks. Im gonna try to suck it out with a siphon when I do a water change. I cant do it today. I had knee surgery this morning.
Hope all is okay....
try to get a pic before the w/c
spanko
Active Member
Thank you both for your input you are correct that the test is probably going to come up zero because the phosphate is being used by the bacteria and any algae in his/her tank.
But that is not where I am going with this. Pez touched on it in that the testing of the source water is one aspect where the kit can be helpful. However if we are using RODI units and maintaing them properly with an inline TDS meter we will avoid using any water with phosphates in it.
Which brings me to my belief in process control. (the auto industry uses this to maintain and increase quality in their vehicles and as you know cars have better longevity now more than ever).
The testing for phoshpates are at best an after the fact useless test. If we have cyano we know we have excess nutrient in the tank and need to do some root cause analysis as to why it is there.
However if we put in place processes and controls to keep our tanks free of excess nutrient in the first place, why would we worry about having a problem in the first place, why would we need to test things after the fact. Husbandry is all important in this hobby. I agree that there are multiple differing processes to get to the same goal, but whatever process we use we need to be diligent about it to maintain our systems.
That said, I can tell you that I have not tested for ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate in probably a year or more. I can tell, now, that my coral are doing what they should, fish and inverts are acting the way they should, mostly by looking at my tank. If I see some algae starting to grow I know there is excess nutrient in there.
The equipment, dosing, and livestock are all process controls to avoid the unnecessary after the fact expense in time and dollars of testing after the fact.
We can discuss this more but for this post I'll leave it at that and see where it goes.
But that is not where I am going with this. Pez touched on it in that the testing of the source water is one aspect where the kit can be helpful. However if we are using RODI units and maintaing them properly with an inline TDS meter we will avoid using any water with phosphates in it.
Which brings me to my belief in process control. (the auto industry uses this to maintain and increase quality in their vehicles and as you know cars have better longevity now more than ever).
The testing for phoshpates are at best an after the fact useless test. If we have cyano we know we have excess nutrient in the tank and need to do some root cause analysis as to why it is there.
However if we put in place processes and controls to keep our tanks free of excess nutrient in the first place, why would we worry about having a problem in the first place, why would we need to test things after the fact. Husbandry is all important in this hobby. I agree that there are multiple differing processes to get to the same goal, but whatever process we use we need to be diligent about it to maintain our systems.
That said, I can tell you that I have not tested for ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate in probably a year or more. I can tell, now, that my coral are doing what they should, fish and inverts are acting the way they should, mostly by looking at my tank. If I see some algae starting to grow I know there is excess nutrient in there.
The equipment, dosing, and livestock are all process controls to avoid the unnecessary after the fact expense in time and dollars of testing after the fact.
We can discuss this more but for this post I'll leave it at that and see where it goes.
pezenfuego
Active Member
Originally Posted by spanko
http:///forum/post/3038023
Thank you both for your input you are correct that the test is probably going to come up zero because the phosphate is being used by the bacteria and any algae in his/her tank.
But that is not where I am going with this. Pez touched on it in that the testing of the source water is one aspect where the kit can be helpful. However if we are using RODI units and maintaing them properly with an inline TDS meter we will avoid using any water with phosphates in it.
Which brings me to my belief in process control. (the auto industry uses this to maintain and increase quality in their vehicles and as you know cars have better longevity now more than ever).
The testing for phoshpates are at best an after the fact useless test. If we have cyano we know we have excess nutrient in the tank and need to do some root cause analysis as to why it is there.
However if we put in place processes and controls to keep our tanks free of excess nutrient in the first place, why would we worry about having a problem in the first place, why would we need to test things after the fact. Husbandry is all important in this hobby. I agree that there are multiple differing processes to get to the same goal, but whatever process we use we need to be diligent about it to maintain our systems.
That said, I can tell you that I have not tested for ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate in probably a year or more. I can tell, now, that my coral are doing what they should, fish and inverts are acting the way they should, mostly by looking at my tank. If I see some algae starting to grow I know there is excess nutrient in there.
The equipment, dosing, and livestock are all process controls to avoid the unnecessary after the fact expense in time and dollars of testing after the fact.
We can discuss this more but for this post I'll leave it at that and see where it goes.
Some would go as far as to say that test kits are for newbies only. I use them for handiness more than anything. Some people get things down pat and never even test for sg. They are handy to have though.
http:///forum/post/3038023
Thank you both for your input you are correct that the test is probably going to come up zero because the phosphate is being used by the bacteria and any algae in his/her tank.
But that is not where I am going with this. Pez touched on it in that the testing of the source water is one aspect where the kit can be helpful. However if we are using RODI units and maintaing them properly with an inline TDS meter we will avoid using any water with phosphates in it.
Which brings me to my belief in process control. (the auto industry uses this to maintain and increase quality in their vehicles and as you know cars have better longevity now more than ever).
The testing for phoshpates are at best an after the fact useless test. If we have cyano we know we have excess nutrient in the tank and need to do some root cause analysis as to why it is there.
However if we put in place processes and controls to keep our tanks free of excess nutrient in the first place, why would we worry about having a problem in the first place, why would we need to test things after the fact. Husbandry is all important in this hobby. I agree that there are multiple differing processes to get to the same goal, but whatever process we use we need to be diligent about it to maintain our systems.
That said, I can tell you that I have not tested for ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate in probably a year or more. I can tell, now, that my coral are doing what they should, fish and inverts are acting the way they should, mostly by looking at my tank. If I see some algae starting to grow I know there is excess nutrient in there.
The equipment, dosing, and livestock are all process controls to avoid the unnecessary after the fact expense in time and dollars of testing after the fact.
We can discuss this more but for this post I'll leave it at that and see where it goes.
Some would go as far as to say that test kits are for newbies only. I use them for handiness more than anything. Some people get things down pat and never even test for sg. They are handy to have though.
meowzer
Moderator
Originally Posted by PEZenfuego
http:///forum/post/3038025
Some would go as far as to say that test kits are for newbies only. I use them for handiness more than anything. Some people get things down pat and never even test for sg. They are handy to have though.
And here I was feeling guilty cause I have NOT been testing the 54 or 225
...I only tested some stuff in the 225 the other day cause something didn't look right with a coral...
I figured that if something was wrong I would be able to tell cause I stare at the tank so much
http:///forum/post/3038025
Some would go as far as to say that test kits are for newbies only. I use them for handiness more than anything. Some people get things down pat and never even test for sg. They are handy to have though.
And here I was feeling guilty cause I have NOT been testing the 54 or 225
I figured that if something was wrong I would be able to tell cause I stare at the tank so much
spanko
Active Member
Okay, here is a problem, we do need tests in that some are part of the process itself. I submit dosing calcium, alk, mag etc. The process demands that we know current condition in order to affect the process. Salinity of change water needs to be verified. If there is no auto top off, salinity of the tank water needs to be verified prior to adding fresh water.There are other examples but I hope you get the idea I am trying to impart. Quality control (testing) after the fact is a waste, it is too late then. However testing to ensure quality upfront is necessary. I hope I am being clear here, to me it is because I understand the concept from working with it and seeing the outcome.
d-man
Member
so it probably is doing something bad to my tank(not that I can see it) and I'll have a big bad crash soon, but I got sick off trying to fight "the horrid red slime" and so I a chemiclean try, I have not have any problems for the 3/4 of a year that I've used it and I save salt and time