DIY acrylic tanks.

bill109

Active Member
hey!
i think it would be a cool project this summer to make or attempt to try and make a DIY acrylic tank.. i would want it to be long maybe like 5 feet and then make it somewhat shallow.. just going for the feet dimension here..
then a stand.. but for the tank how hard is this to do? i could get acrylic sheets and use silicone on them and then make some kind of brace system for the tank as well
what do you think?
if it wont work then what do you think about a small tank? the pressure in that tank cant be to big so it wont be as hard to make??
thanks again
let me hear your thoughts..
bill
 

sharkbait9

Active Member
+1 on the weldon. Silicon won't hold it. When you cut the acrylic it needs to be damn near perfect for the edges to match up. Look for acrylic and a couple of the other members who know this better then me. I just know the simple mistakes i made for newbie at acrylic work.
 

bill109

Active Member
Originally Posted by sharkbait9
http:///forum/post/2596703
+1 on the weldon. Silicon won't hold it. When you cut the acrylic it needs to be damn near perfect for the edges to match up. Look for acrylic and a couple of the other members who know this better then me. I just know the simple mistakes i made for newbie at acrylic work.
what if you buy the sheets and just trim the tops so u dont mess the angles of the sides up? tht way when u buy it use the flat edges tht are pre cut as a side to side type of thing.
is glass any easier to work with?
 

airforceman

Member
I don't know if it was on these boards but some person, forgot who, made a reef tank with plywood and just had one acrylic piece for viewing. It was really cool. They just layered stuff (lol forgot what it was) and made the wood waterproof.
 

fats71

Active Member
Originally Posted by Airforceman
http:///forum/post/2596832
I don't know if it was on these boards but some person, forgot who, made a reef tank with plywood and just had one acrylic piece for viewing. It was really cool. They just layered stuff (lol forgot what it was) and made the wood waterproof.
It is this board and its broncos. It is in this same topic.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
All edges regardless of cut or not need to be checked and squared IMO.....To get good quality joint all saw or cut marks need to be removed before the gluing process......I must stress that silicone shouldn't be used, because it won't hold. WeldOn 4 would be my choice, but have used WeldOn 3 with great success. The 3 has a quicker reaction time than the 4.
You want your glue joints bubble free.....Excessive bubbles in your joints could lead to weak joints and possible failure down the road. Again alot of this comes down to edge prep. Also using the pin-glue method is a very good way to get solid joints as well. Using this method you use small gauge wire and shims under your pieces to make the gap uniform between your top and bottom piece. When gluing you do want to leave a little overhang to allow proper assembly and when all complete you can go back with your router and a flush cut bit and clean it all up.......
A good thread to check out is over on -- dealing with your specific questions and you can't miss it in the DIY forum.....Hopefully "Acrylic" will see this and respond in much greater detail....
 
I actually have some spare 1in. acrylic sheets that I was looking at. I think they might be able to handle an interlocking router cut allowing for a tongue & groove type of structure, but I don't have enough to actually do the stress test when filled with water yet. There might even be another possibility that you could meld the sides together as to form a "welded Joint". The only problem there is curing the melding acrylic to a solid state
 

acrylics

Member
Bill109,
It isn't complex at all, quite simple actually, just that it does take a little practice to get the techniques down. If you don't have the tooling to cut and machine all the parts for you, have an acrylic shop do it for you. For a 5' tank, shouldn't take more than an hour or 2 of the shop's time depending on complexity of the top and overflow(s).
Step 1: buy the sheet, make sure it's good material. I personally recommend Spartech Polycast, Cyro Acrylite GP, or Plexiglas G/GM - in this order of preference and *no others*
Step 2: route or machine the sheets to the desired size. Gluing edges must be straight, flat, and smooth
Step 3: glue pieces together
Step 4: flush cut and finish as necessary or desired
With the exception of the router table and solvent/applicator bottle, all tools and supplies required are available at any Home Depot or decent hardware store. All you really need are some gluing jigs (made from particle board is fine), spring clamps, well, that's it.
Tomato Clown,
Tongue in groove joints are not stronger in acrylic and will usually be far weaker as they introduce new stress points and the stress of the actual machining is bad for acrylic. Simple butt joint is more than adequate to provide 2500psi joint strength, far more than anything we'll see in this hobby. Ie., if done correctly, the joints should never be the weak spot in the tank. Usually it's the engineering, material that is too thin, bad material, or bad technique.
HTH,
James
 
Originally Posted by acrylics
http:///forum/post/2600694
Bill109,
Tomato Clown,
Tongue in groove joints are not stronger in acrylic and will usually be far weaker as they introduce new stress points and the stress of the actual machining is bad for acrylic. Simple butt joint is more than adequate to provide 2500psi joint strength, far more than anything we'll see in this hobby. Ie., if done correctly, the joints should never be the weak spot in the tank. Usually it's the engineering, material that is too thin, bad material, or bad technique.
HTH,
James
I did mention "curing" meaning once the T&G cuts are done, acrylic is cured forming one solid structure. (Basically the joint will no longer be a "joint".) It's very hard to explain, but could be easier to do having the proper equipment and tools. I've been giving this thought for about 2 years now and in all honesty the only issue I can see bringing on the problematic aspects would be the size you can do. This problem arises because, the melding acrylic used, if not done under the proper pressure levels can and more than likely will come out porous and weak.
Then again maybe I'm just thinking a tad too much...
 

bill109

Active Member
would it be expensive for them to cut it? shoudlnt i make a smaller tank considering it is my first diy tank? lol
so once i use weldon to put it together.. i just clamp it? come like one pice to another? like across the tank?
what about a top brace?
and lastly if you weldon the tank on the inside, outside, at the top corners and just like almost over do it with the weldon it should be stable i would assume water ready after it cures?
thanks for your time
have a good night
-bill
 

acrylics

Member
Originally Posted by bill109
http:///forum/post/2602830
would it be expensive for them to cut it? shoudlnt i make a smaller tank considering it is my first diy tank? lol
so once i use weldon to put it together.. i just clamp it? come like one pice to another? like across the tank?
what about a top brace?
and lastly if you weldon the tank on the inside, outside, at the top corners and just like almost over do it with the weldon it should be stable i would assume water ready after it cures?
IMO a DIY is not cheap unless you already have the tools to do it. An hour of a shop's time to properly and squarely machine each piece is money well spent if you can't do it yourself. You have to ask yourself why you are going to DIY. If you are doing it because you think you can do it for less $$ - you will most likely be mistaken if you don't have your own tooling. If you are doing it for experience or as a hobby of sorts - you won't mind (within reason) how much it costs (remember you are doing this for experience)
Yes, IMO you should build a couple of display cases first, something that isn't necessarily water-tight, just to gain the experience and get the hang of it. Then maybe a small tank or sump, then once you've built up a little experience - you should be able to handle a tank such as a short 5 footer.
Only clamps that should be needed are $3 spring clamps to hold the parts in place. If you have to use bar clamps for any of this - you will most likely have larger problems down the road.
The necessity and style of the top brace cannot be determined from where I sit. You need to determine the size of tank and material thickness you are comfortable with. Generally speaking though, you will need a top brace - it's importance in structural integrity cannot be overstated.
Your last statement is somewhat confusing to me, sorry. What Weld-on product are you referring to? If made correctly - you should have a total of 4 gluing sequences and that's it provided there is no overflow.
Step 1) glue the "ends" to the front with the front being horizontal and the ends being vertical and sitting on top of the front. Your "glue" will actually be a solvent such as Weld-on #4 *only*.
Step 2) flip this assembly over to glue it onto the back
Step 3) flip this 4-sided assembly over onto the top and glue it
Step 4) flip this assembly onto the bottom and glue that
Step 5) there is no step 5, the rest is all finish work. No additions of any kind, no "sealing" or caulking, the gluing is done and if you did your job right - will be water-tight.
Do a search on -- for a thread called "DIY tank, step by step", it will show you all the entire process. And again, *everything* you need except for the router table and solvent w/ applicator bottle is available at any hardware store. It's up to you to cut & machine the parts squarely, or have it done for you.
FWIW, do not *ever* count on the material's factory edges to be smooth, straight, or square. Every edge to be glued should be machined.
HTH,
James
 
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