DIY Sump

valgae

Member
29G 30x12x12(i think) compartments lt to right- 1stfuge w/DSB- 2nd main drain & skimmer-3rd return the glass baffles are 4-10"x 11 3/4" & 2- 6"x11 3/4. there is 1" under raised baffles. the first pic is backwards because i took it from behind the tank.

 
S

shrimpy brains

Guest
Anyone ever considered putting additional filtration between baffle walls. (e.g. sponge filters, phos. filter) or would that be overkill? Also, what about carbon filtration in sw. I always thought carbon wasn't recommended, But read someone suggesting it for keeping hard and soft corals toegether to reduce toxins given off by soft corals??
 

gmann1139

Active Member
Originally Posted by Shrimpy Brains
http:///forum/post/2906960
Anyone ever considered putting additional filtration between baffle walls. (e.g. sponge filters, phos. filter) or would that be overkill? Also, what about carbon filtration in sw. I always thought carbon wasn't recommended, But read someone suggesting it for keeping hard and soft corals toegether to reduce toxins given off by soft corals??

I've seen that on some sumps you can buy. Sponge filter between the baffles.
Carbon goes both ways. In most cases, it is good, but bad quality carbon may contribute to HLLE and other issues.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member



110g sump, 220lbs sand, 110lbs base rock, drilled for 2" bulkhead

This was my sump for my 1500g holding sytem. It could have been better, but oh well.

This was an old rubbermaid sump for a 240 gallon reef tank of mine.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
recommended 10x turnover rate through your sump per hour. So, a 75 gallon tank should have a pump that is rated for 750gph at however many foot of head you have.
 

patriot54

Member
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33
http:///forum/post/2908150
recommended 10x turnover rate through your sump per hour. So, a 75 gallon tank should have a pump that is rated for 750gph at however many foot of head you have.
What is foot of head?
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
lets say you have a pump that pushes 500gph at 0 foot of head. Meaning at the nozzle. (outlet of the pump) If you attach a piece of PVC to the output nozzle five foot long, you decrease the amount of water that is flowing upwards to say 300gph.
So, lets say you have a 75 gallon aquarium and you have a sump. Alright, say the live fish store says you need a mag drive 7 because that's 700 gallons per hour flowing through your aquarium. Well, that's BS. You have to compensate for head pressure. (gravity of water pushing down on your pump) So a mag 9.5 at 4ft of head is perfect for a 75 gallon aquarium.
 

scsinet

Active Member
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33
http:///forum/post/2908150
recommended 10x turnover rate through your sump per hour. So, a 75 gallon tank should have a pump that is rated for 750gph at however many foot of head you have.
I disagree.
IMO your sump only needs to have enough flow through it to support the needs of your filtation equipment. The total flow of a reef tank may need to be around 10x, but lots of people struggle when trying to establish their entire flow objective through the main filtration loop. It's made worse when tanks are pre-drilled and the holes in them are nowhere near big enough to handle the entirity of a reef's flow needs.
Say you have a 100 gallon display tank. A good fuge might be 10 gallons for this tank. You want to have MAYBE 100 gph through this fuge... maybe 50gph. So let's say 100. You also have a skimmer that requires 350gph of flow. If that's all you have (and that's all most folks have), in this case, that's really only 450 gph you need to worry about for your filtration.
You can then supplement your flow with a closed loop or with powerheads in the main tank, which offers more flexibility because you can direct your flow in different directions, use wavemakers, etc.
The suggestion of 10x turnover is fine, but it's not 100% necessary/mandatory to do it all with your filration.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Well, SSCInet and I disagree with each other, but no matter what, you have to have some flow through your sump to feed your filtration equipment and be fast enough for your heater(s) to homogenize the temp in your tank.
Granted, you do not need a very swift flow through your sump. You also need to supplement flow in your display tank through powerheads or a closed loop system.
I've practiced my way for years now and I have found nothing wrong with it. So, I guess you can try it somewhere in between.
 
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