omgsaltwat
Member
Its a DIY I want to use it for a 125gal :thinking:
Do you think this set up will work?
- Thread starter omgsaltwat
- Start date
jasenhicks
Member
Id suggest getting rid of the bioball area, its nothing but a nitrate factory unless you plan on flushing them out weekly. Id can-x the 10 gallon on top, have the drain go to a filter sock, and then do the rest like you have it --> Assuming 2 things, the main drain section on the left has a skimmer, and the middle is going to be a refugium.
Jasen
Jasen
55semireef
Member
Originally Posted by SaltFan
Looks good to me, even with the bio balls in there.
Unless your planning on going Reef.
you can still have bioballs with a reef.
Looks good to me, even with the bio balls in there.
you can still have bioballs with a reef.
jasenhicks
Member
Bioballs are a proven nitrate breeding ground unless you have someother means of transport. I had a constant level of nitrates in my tank for months. I cleaned the bioballs, and it went to zero. I finally ditched them, and have had perfect water chemistry since.
The comment "unless you go reef" I think was refering to the fact that fish are more tolerable of nitrate than our coral friends.
The comment "unless you go reef" I think was refering to the fact that fish are more tolerable of nitrate than our coral friends.
saltfan
Active Member
Originally Posted by JasenHicks
Bioballs are a proven nitrate breeding ground unless you have someother means of transport. I had a constant level of nitrates in my tank for months. I cleaned the bioballs, and it went to zero. I finally ditched them, and have had perfect water chemistry since.
The comment "unless you go reef" I think was refering to the fact that fish are more tolerable of nitrate than our coral friends.
Well, kinda. If you never cleaned your bio for anything including bio-balls or any other type of filtration, you will have trate problems. So, bio-balls are an excellent bio use for a salt system, they grow nitrifying bacteria, but, if you just leave them in the system for a year without touching them, your going to have problems. They are just like any other means of filtration, if you leave it, you will hve problems. Bio-Balls, are better than most, you don't have to clean them as often, they should have filter media over top to catch the bigger crap, before it hits the balls.
Bioballs are a proven nitrate breeding ground unless you have someother means of transport. I had a constant level of nitrates in my tank for months. I cleaned the bioballs, and it went to zero. I finally ditched them, and have had perfect water chemistry since.
The comment "unless you go reef" I think was refering to the fact that fish are more tolerable of nitrate than our coral friends.
Well, kinda. If you never cleaned your bio for anything including bio-balls or any other type of filtration, you will have trate problems. So, bio-balls are an excellent bio use for a salt system, they grow nitrifying bacteria, but, if you just leave them in the system for a year without touching them, your going to have problems. They are just like any other means of filtration, if you leave it, you will hve problems. Bio-Balls, are better than most, you don't have to clean them as often, they should have filter media over top to catch the bigger crap, before it hits the balls.
omgsaltwat
Member
Will the Baffles for return area work what do you mean by waterfall is that a bad thing? I just didn't want any microbubbles going back to the dt the big section is for a skimmer and heater, uv ect. I am going to have a 20 or 30 refugium. that will pull from the sump and return to the dt, or should I rreturn it to the sump? I am thinking with this set up I can add about 65gal to the total.
turningtim
Active Member
Originally Posted by SaltFan
Hey TurningTim, comment on Baffles for return area if you would please.
Yup those are baffles :hilarious
J/K. By cutting down the last baffle this will reduce the chance of a large drop after the bubble trap (1st 2 baffles) into the return section. So in a sense you're createing the problem that you are trying to get rid of. With proper spacing (I like 2") the bubbles should have enough time to disapate before hitting the return pump. But in saying that what kind of flow are you looking at? Would you consider a different design?
Everything has to work together and the system must be taken as a whole....
JMO
HTH
Tim
Hey TurningTim, comment on Baffles for return area if you would please.
Yup those are baffles :hilarious
J/K. By cutting down the last baffle this will reduce the chance of a large drop after the bubble trap (1st 2 baffles) into the return section. So in a sense you're createing the problem that you are trying to get rid of. With proper spacing (I like 2") the bubbles should have enough time to disapate before hitting the return pump. But in saying that what kind of flow are you looking at? Would you consider a different design?
Everything has to work together and the system must be taken as a whole....
JMO
HTH
Tim
omgsaltwat
Member
Would you consider a different design?
Everything has to work together and the system must be taken as a whole....
Yes I would send me any ideals PLEASE. I would like the best setup I can have. Thanks
Everything has to work together and the system must be taken as a whole....
Yes I would send me any ideals PLEASE. I would like the best setup I can have. Thanks
turningtim
Active Member
Well what are you looking to do? You want a sump/fuge, Just a sump for added water volume, added bio-filtration, malnutrient removal, a place to just put equipment? Can you fit both the 10 and 30 flat under the stand? Whats in the tank now? What knid of flow do you have? What do you want to keep in the tank? What skimmer do you have?
Tim
Tim
omgsaltwat
Member
Originally Posted by TurningTim
Well what are you looking to do? You want a sump/fuge, Just a sump for added water volume, added bio-filtration, malnutrient removal, a place to just put equipment? Can you fit both the 10 and 30 flat under the stand? Whats in the tank now? What knid of flow do you have? What do you want to keep in the tank? What skimmer do you have?
Tim
I want a sump for better water filtering.
want the added water volume,
want a fuge for malnutrient removal and a safe place for pods.
and a place for equipment,
I can fit both under the stand flat under the stand
I have about 150 lbs of ls and about 175lbs of lr
2 stealth 250 watt heaters
2 azoo 2500's and 2 cheap ph at 315gph
and one Coralife Super Skimmer Needle Wheel Protein Skimmer
1 foxface, 1-6 line, Engineer Goby, about 20 snails, about 20 crabs.
useing a cascade 1500 canister filter.
I would like my fuge to be separate from the sump, I already have a 30gal, 20 gal long, and 10 gal. and lots of sheets to use for baffles. All of this I can use to make the sump and fuge. so what are your thoughts. I would like to build this weekend, Thanks for all the help Tim
Well what are you looking to do? You want a sump/fuge, Just a sump for added water volume, added bio-filtration, malnutrient removal, a place to just put equipment? Can you fit both the 10 and 30 flat under the stand? Whats in the tank now? What knid of flow do you have? What do you want to keep in the tank? What skimmer do you have?
Tim
I want a sump for better water filtering.
want the added water volume,
want a fuge for malnutrient removal and a safe place for pods.
and a place for equipment,
I can fit both under the stand flat under the stand
I have about 150 lbs of ls and about 175lbs of lr
2 stealth 250 watt heaters
2 azoo 2500's and 2 cheap ph at 315gph
and one Coralife Super Skimmer Needle Wheel Protein Skimmer
1 foxface, 1-6 line, Engineer Goby, about 20 snails, about 20 crabs.
useing a cascade 1500 canister filter.
I would like my fuge to be separate from the sump, I already have a 30gal, 20 gal long, and 10 gal. and lots of sheets to use for baffles. All of this I can use to make the sump and fuge. so what are your thoughts. I would like to build this weekend, Thanks for all the help Tim
turningtim
Active Member
OMG, What are the dimensions of the 20, 30 and under the stand? The 10 is just to small for the fuge and it will not handle the flow as a sump. I haven't done any numbers yet, but bare with me.
keep the can filter for running carbon and phos-ban. You'll need an OF, 1200 gph should do just fine. Probably looking at a mag18 or similar return pump.
I'm thinking 30 fuge 20 for the sump. Can you stack these two and fit under the stand? How do you feel about drilling holes in glass?
You can use that skimmer HOB right. Not on the tank but maybe coming off the sump. It may buy you some room, The 10 may not be out yet.
Must meditate :thinking:
Get me the dims and I'll see what up!
No worries
Tim
keep the can filter for running carbon and phos-ban. You'll need an OF, 1200 gph should do just fine. Probably looking at a mag18 or similar return pump.
I'm thinking 30 fuge 20 for the sump. Can you stack these two and fit under the stand? How do you feel about drilling holes in glass?
You can use that skimmer HOB right. Not on the tank but maybe coming off the sump. It may buy you some room, The 10 may not be out yet.
Must meditate :thinking:
Get me the dims and I'll see what up!
No worries
Tim
turningtim
Active Member
Originally Posted by reefraff
What you could do is have the display drain directly into the sump. Use a T with a valve to divert a small amount of the return flow into the fuge and let that drain into the sump as planned. Volume problem solved.
I don't understand how that solves the volume problem? :notsure:
What you could do is have the display drain directly into the sump. Use a T with a valve to divert a small amount of the return flow into the fuge and let that drain into the sump as planned. Volume problem solved.
I don't understand how that solves the volume problem? :notsure:
omgsaltwat
Member
The 30gal is 36L x 12W x 16H
The 20gal is 36L x 12W x12H
The 10 is 20L x 10W x 12H
as for as putting it under my tank I'm going to bulid a on to the side of it in a L shape so I can do whatever with the the stuff space is not a problem. As it goes for drilling glass I have a diamond bit for a dremel ( and I have a old sheet of glass to try it on) do the holes have to be perfectly round? What I mean if Im off 1/16 of an inch will the bulk head still seal?
Yes the skimmer is HOB.
I am going to make my OF I plan to use 1'' holes and bulk heads.
Yet another ? do I have to build the OF out of glass or can I use arcylic. ( if glass I am going to have a glass place build them for me)
Thanks for all the help.
The 20gal is 36L x 12W x12H
The 10 is 20L x 10W x 12H
as for as putting it under my tank I'm going to bulid a on to the side of it in a L shape so I can do whatever with the the stuff space is not a problem. As it goes for drilling glass I have a diamond bit for a dremel ( and I have a old sheet of glass to try it on) do the holes have to be perfectly round? What I mean if Im off 1/16 of an inch will the bulk head still seal?
Yes the skimmer is HOB.
I am going to make my OF I plan to use 1'' holes and bulk heads.
Yet another ? do I have to build the OF out of glass or can I use arcylic. ( if glass I am going to have a glass place build them for me)
Thanks for all the help.
turningtim
Active Member
Excellent! 30 fuge, 20 sump! We'll use the skimmer in sump. I built my HOB OF from acrylic no worries there. I can supply pics and ideas on that too. You thinking 1200 gph? 10x Good start on the tank flow.
Tried must rest, I'll do some drawing tomorrow and then we can run some #s K?
Tim
Tried must rest, I'll do some drawing tomorrow and then we can run some #s K?
Tim
omgsaltwat
Member
Thats sounds great Thanks Tim.
turningtim
Active Member
OMG, Goota run for a bit, haven't forgot about you! Check in the morning I should have something for you.....
Tim
Tim