Do you trust your RO/DI too much?

stdreb27

Active Member
Originally Posted by Cranberry
http:///forum/post/3206260
Chlorine and Chloramine will not be detected by your TDS meter and will not be removed by your DI resin.
So unless you change your carbon frequently in relation to the amount of chlorine/chloramines that is in your municipal water....or unless you test, you should not be sleeping snuggly at night.....
Muwahahahahaha!
Go test for chloramines/chlorine in your RO/DI water.
I read this and start laughing, then I read the responses and laugh even harder.
I love it when people overlook something obvious... Then you bring it up.
 

cranberry

Active Member
Originally Posted by TruPerc
http:///forum/post/3211741
Example water report. Which you can potentially check on line.
Mine wasn't available, but I emailed a request some time ago and it comes in no time. My water is crazy contaminated... hence the 400-500+ TDS, I guess.
 

ryancw01

Member
Originally Posted by stdreb27
http:///forum/post/3211771
I read this and start laughing, then I read the responses and laugh even harder.
I love it when people overlook something obvious... Then you bring it up.
Laughing because you are cooler than everybody? I don't get it?
 

stdreb27

Active Member
Originally Posted by Cranberry
http:///forum/post/3211779
Are you laughing at me....

well, no, in my head, when I read your post, I got an mental picture in my head of Jaws as chlorine waiting to strike.
Plus stuff so simple, yet, such a brilliant point, makes me laugh. Because we all, (I know I did) overlook something simple as chlorine.
This isn't the first time you've posted something like this, that I though, why wasn't I checking this? I'm a moron.
 

bang guy

Moderator
I passed tap water through just a DI to test Chloramine removal.
Before = 1.2 mg/L
After = 0.0 mg/L
I used a Hach test kit.
%%
 

cranberry

Active Member
It seems it does remove chloramines, however the chloramine removal effectiveness may be reduced before the DI shows that it needs to be changed.
 

bang guy

Moderator
About 10 years ago I added another carbon stage because I'm paranoid about forgetting to change carbon and killing my RO membrane.
Not a bad idea...
 

aquaknight

Active Member
Well the kit finially arrived today along with all new filters. Interesting/easy test, but a little disappointed that there really isn't any 'real' levels.' The amount of chlorine or chloramine you have is based on how pink the water turns. I guess with a duel test, it not possible.
Anyways, I was safe. My carbon was way overdue for a change. The left is tap, the right is out of the DI on the old filters. Seems like I have a lot of chlorine or chloramines.
 

coral keeper

Active Member
How often do you need to change out the DI resin to make sure its removing 100% of Chlorine and Chloramine? I used the color changing DI resin, do I wait till it fully changes color?
 

bang guy

Moderator
Originally Posted by Coral Keeper
http:///forum/post/3253075
How often do you need to change out the DI resin to make sure its removing 100% of Chlorine and Chloramine? I used the color changing DI resin, do I wait till it fully changes color?
The carbon stage needs to remove all chlorine. Otherwise your RO membrane will dissolve.
 

aquaknight

Active Member
Originally Posted by Coral Keeper
http:///forum/post/3253300
I know, but, how often should I change the DI resin?
There really isn't a timeframe like for the RO membrane, with the DI resin, it would be by TDS readings. I let mine get to 3 TDS before it's time for a change. I always use coloring changing DI resin, though haven't had the cartridge completely changed before I got 3/4 TDS.
 

cranberry

Active Member
I change when it hits 1 myself. I don't know what's getting through through.... but it's "1" of something and I don't like the unknown.
 

mrdc

Active Member
Interesting thread. I think I will get a test kit for the chlorine and chloramines. I saw the filterguys test kit and was wodering if there is brand that might be sold locally in most areas. If not, I may look for the one posted online.
 

cranberry

Active Member
No, I don't calibrate. I use 2 inlines. I have found over the years, that if one remains at zero and the other starts to stray upward, it is usually the upward one that has gone bad. When I buy a new one, to replace the upward one, it always reads zero.
Those little Jungle test stripes are also very accurate when I've tested them side by side with the filter guys.
 
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