Filtration Question CPR CY192

[1boatnut]

I have a CPR CY192 filter that I would like some imput on:
Just a stock photo
The tank is a 125 gallon that is going to be set up as a Reef and this filter is only rated for 100 gallons. However with the use of live rock I was thinking filtration would be sufficent. I also would not be using the bio-bale.
I also have something like this that came with the CPR filter(just a little older)
http://www.lifegardaquatics.com/prod...oduct.php?id=8
I did not plan on using the UV
A concern of mine is when shutting the power off,or a power failure would the sump overflow because it's only for 100 gal max,or is the 100 gal max only for filtering capabilities ?
I also have a ProClear Aquatics 175 wet dry I could use,but then would need to purchase a protein skimmer.
Any helpful ideas?

 

[russelljew]

100 gal max is its filtering capabilities. I use the cy194 on my tank, the only thing you really have to worry about is when the power goes out you will have a sphion back down to the sump. What I did was put my output about 4 inches in the tank and drilled a 1/4 inch hole just below my water line. Now when the power goes out it will suck in air and stop the sphion.

 

[scsinet]

If using sufficient live rock, in the neighborhood of 1.5lbs/gallon... so about 200lbs, then no wet/dry filter like this one is required at all. Reef tanks with this much live rock pretty much make wet/dry filters redundant.
Also the all-in-one approach pretty much guarantees a mediocre performance... the built in skimmer may work okay, but investing in a low cost yet good performing skimmer like an Octopus will give you much more bang for your buck.
If it were me, instead of spending all this money on a (overpriced) CPR filter that is going to be limiting because everything is built in, I'd spend the money on live rock, and instead use a simple sump... with baffles that can be set up as a refugium full of macroalgae, and a separate skimmer placed in the sump.
In the end, you may actually spend a bit more, but it will give you a far more effective and flexible filtration setup, and by using a separate skimmer, you can upgrade it down the road.

 

[1boatnut]

Hey SCSInet I hear you,and agree.
However I'm not spending any money on the CPR,I have had it for a couple of years sitting in the basement. I was just thinking about using this mmore like a sump,and like you said,up-grade down the road.
I also have a Pro Clear 175 that is not in use either.
I thought about using it too,but again not really as a filter but more of a sump.
Appreciate the suggestions

 

[1boatnut]

Originally Posted by russelljew
http:///forum/post/3233844
the only thing you really have to worry about is when the power goes out you will have a sphion back down to the sump. .
Actually I was thinking about putting a check valve in the return,which I'm told would make siphon back to the sump not a issue.
Anyway this is what the guy at the LFS told me today
thanks russelljew

 

[scsinet]

Originally Posted by 1boatnut
http:///forum/post/3234437
Actually I was thinking about putting a check valve in the return,which I'm told would make siphon back to the sump not a issue.
Anyway this is what the guy at the LFS told me today
thanks russelljew
Yeah well what the guy at the LFS didn't tell you is that check valves are notorious for failure. They get jammed up with gunk and generally, the failure goes unnoticed until a power failure occurs and you find water on your floor.
I flooded TWICE... once with the basic PVC check valves you get at Home Despot, and once with the really nice flapper valves that they sell specifically for aquariums.
Go with russell's advice. it's cheaper and practically fail safe. Just make sure the holes don't get clogged periodically and you're all set.

 

[1boatnut]

russelljew,
Are you talking about holes drilled in the return portion(nozzle) sitting in the water? If so,that is how it is currently set now
Thanks SCSInet. I didn't know they were prone to failure

 

[scsinet]

What he's talking about is called a siphon break...
Someone here probably has a diagram they can post... but anyway, it's a small hole, drilled in the inflow pipe right at the water line or just a tiny hair below. When the power fails, the siphon starts, but as soon as the tank water drops low enough to expose the hole, air rushes in and breaks the siphon. In this setup, the water only drops maybe 1/8" as opposed to however many inches down into the water your nozzles are.

 

[1boatnut]

Yes,then that is how mine is already set.
Thanks