Fish Disease or New Tank Syndrome?


I would not add stability
you add sw...and throw in a raw shrimp (seafood shrimp)....let it get stinky (LOL) and when the ammonia rises.....take it out.....then test daily, when your ammonia starts to drop nitrites will begin to rise.....when nitrites start to drop nitrates will begin to rise.....eventually they should all get to zero...and WHALLA....your initial cycle is complete


Active Member
Welcome to the site, and sorry about the losses but it will get better. I also recommend reading the nano thread section. Many people have threads going about the 29 gallon bio cube and you can get ideas on how to get the most out of your bio cube. You can find ideas on upgrading the lighting to keep different types of coral and also on setting up a refugium in the compartment of the bio cube.


New Member
Wow...that makes it sound so simple! :) Certainly beats killing fish. Hopefully I can buy a single shrimp somewhere. I despise seafood and won't let it enter my house as a rule. LOL How long does it generally take for the ammonia to rise? We didn't have any spikes with our initial cycle. The ammonia never rose, the nitrite and nitrate went up a little towards the end. They said it was because our rock was cured already in their store. Is this true? Or did our tank just never get cycled properly?
Thank you for all your help.
P.S. We love our cat, too.


New Member
Sifting through the nano threads...
The shrimp below that is referenced to add after 2-3 weeks of weekly water that live shrimp or the raw seafood shrimp for cycling?
Sorry so many questions. I need to get it right this time around and I feel like I am trying to read a different language on here.
Originally Posted by BTLDreef http:///forum/thread/382849/fish-disease-or-new-tank-syndrome#post_3344047
I'm sorry you were given such terrible advise by your local fish store.
To start where things left off:
Blennies are fish, some serve as beneficial cleaners and eat algae, such as a Lawnmower Blenny (LMB). LMB's are considered "algae blennies" while Midas Blennies are considered "fang Blennies" and the two should not be mixed, especially in such a small tank, so this was also one of your issues.
I would leave the tank fishless for a minimum of 6 weeks (8weeks would be even better). This is so the ich that the hippo tang introduced to your tank dies off and won't infect the next fish you add. Ich can only live without a host (a fish) for 6-8 weeks. During this time, do some big water changes (50%) for the first 3 weeks, the cleaner the water, the better, at least in my opinion. After 3 weeks, start adding CUC members, start with some snails and hermits. Wait a week or two, then add your shrimp. IMO, a brittle star or really any starfish for that matter isn't a good fit in a 29G tank. Brittles have been known to eat small fish as they get larger, and in a tiny space with small fish, it's not a good idea. Once you reach the 6-8 week mark, buy a healthy fish at a different store. Really observe the fish, look for ich (although you may not always see it, which is why it's a good idea to get a little quaratine tank [QT]), make sure the fish eats, etc.
If you can set up a small QT, this would be ideal, you could even set one up while you leave your 29G fishless. A 10G tank with a small biowheel or AquaClear filter on it would work just fine. By having a QT tank, you can purchase a fish from the store and isolate it in it's own tank. Many people run the QT at a lower salinily to kill off ich parasites and make sure the fish is free of parasites before introducing to the main tank. If you do this, your tank should stay ich free. In QT you'll also be able to observe the fishes eating habits and behavior. ***** is running a deal right now $1/G tanks, so a 10G tank will only cost you $10 and an AquaClear filter for that size tank will run you $25-$30, definitely worth the investment considering how expensive certain saltwater fish can be.
IMO, your tank could also use a little more live rock. The "acclimated" live rock you bought is "cured" live rock, and you'll need cured live rock since your tank is already semi established from here on. Adding uncured live rock will cause your tank to cycle again (kill fish, etc).
I also agree that you need to go read through the New Hobbyists threads here:
it's a lot of information to absorb at once and feel free to post questions as they come up, there are many very helpful people on this forum.
Good luck!


I see in post number 12 you said the temp is 73... is that correct? If so it needs to be moved up to around 78... thats a huge stress on fish as well
As far as your last post about the quarantine, get your temp right and salinity right then do what they call ghost feeding... add just a little bit of fish food once a day and as it breaks down it will start the cycle... then keep a check on ammonia, when that starts wait a few days and check again..when it goes to zero start checking nitrite


If you don't want to use shrimp, you can ghost feed. Basically you feed an invisible fish. Honestly, I would leave your tank be, since you have a CUC in there already. Leave it fish less for 6-8 weeks for the ich issue and feed VERY LIGHTLY for the CUC, it will build up beneficial bacteria on its own.
The QT should have no rock or sand in it. I am one of the few that does QT coral as well as fish. If the coral has rock attached to it, ich can be introduced to the tank this way, although the chance is slim, I just don't want to take the risk.


YES, I also think you should leave your tank alone now.....shrimp are very sensitive, and if you had water issues at this point, the shrimp would be the first to go
set up your qt while you leave your tank empty for a minimum of 6 will then be able to qt your fish first, then add to an ich free tank