Fish Dying Off... Not sure why

gmusick

Member
I have posted a couple of posts on the New Hobbiest forum, but have gotten little feedback. I have recently resumed this hobby after a 15 year layoff and things have changed dramatically. I have had bad luck so far, so i want to see what my next steps are.
I started my 35 gal hex tank 3 months ago. I used some controversial "Quick Start" bacteria to get my tank started and it seemed to work, at least initially. I added 4 damsels, a blue, a yellowtail, a domino and a striped, and 10 lbs of live rock, as well as the packet of bacteria. My tank had cycled, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and 20 nitrates after 2 days. I had some amount of stress in my tank right from the start. The blue damsel immediately chased and killed the yellowtail, within 24 hours. He also chewed the tails off both the domino and striped. I removed the dead damsel and the blue from my tank and the other two did well for 2 weeks. My parameters were still solid, so I purchased a flame hawk and 2 green chromis. Within one day, the domino was dead after eating and acting normally the night before. One more day and the striped damsel was dead, again after acting normally the night before. I chalked all my deaths up to the initial damage done by the blue damsel. Again, a couple of weeks passed. My hawk and chromis did well, and are still doing well. Along the way, one at a time, I purchased a lyretail anthias, a bicolor blennie and a yellow tang ( I now know the rule about tangs ). I had the tang for 2 weeks before he seemed to contract a combination of ich and velvet. He had spots on his fins, but his body, including head, turned white like he had a powder on him. Since I was planning on making this a reef tank, I didn't want to use copper, so I used a combination, based on the recommendation of the lfs, of "Kick Ich" and medicatedgarlic-infused food. All of my fish were scratching against the rocks and CC. The lfs also recommended a cleaner shimp and a brittle star. They recommended the shrimp to help clean the fish during treatment and the brittle star to help keep excess medicated food from making my trates shoot up. The shrimp and star are both really doing well, in my tank, but within a couple of days, my blennie, anthias and tang all died. I have been doing 10-20% water changes at least once a week. I am using RO water and boxed seawater to add water back in. I have also been adding in "Stability" to help add beneficial bacteria. The hawk, chromis' and my 2 inverts are all doing well, but I am getting frustrated about all the losses that I have had. I do not have a QT, due to space limitations, but I have been using the drip method for acclimation. My tank stays within safe invert parameters, except my trates seem to stay fairly high (40). I test my water regularly and also let my lfs test my water regularly. I fed my fish a combination of Tenera Blue, Emerald Entree, Brine Shrimp Plus and basic flakes.
Here is the deal... I know I probably made more mistakes than I should have. I can't go back and change how I started up my tank, nor can I change the the order or frequency of the fish I introduced to my tank. I need to know what to do next. I do have 1 piece of my live rock that is still brown, but does have some polyps on it (maybe this is causing my trates to stay up). I have CC substrate, and Emporer 280 bio wheel filter, about 15 lbs of live rock, about 20 lbs of base rock, a couple of small pieces of decorative coral and one piece of artificial branch coral and a heater (stays about 79 degrees). What should I do to make my tank more stable? Add equipment of some type? Is there some additive I should be adding? Should I remove my fish, inverts and rock, add live sand and start over? Help... i am ready to take it down and set it out by the road.
Thanks!
Glen in Atlanta
 

ophiura

Active Member
Can you tell us a bit more about other circulation in the tank - powerheads and do you have a protein skimmer? Do you have a pH and alk reading?
I think a lot of the trouble is too much too fast - with some delicate fish and in a tank that is not particularly easy to work with. But let's see if we can brain storm anything else...
 

gmusick

Member
Thanks for the reply, Ophiura!
I don't have any additional circulation in my tank but the Emporer 280. I don't have a protein skimmer either. That is part of my confusion. What other equipment do I really need. Not necessarily, what do I "need", but what can I get that would make my life easier. I am thinking about getting a UV Sterilizer and a powerhead, but, due to the controversy on this board, I haven't done it yet. My pH is 8.4 and the ppm is maxed out on my test kit. I have been concerned that I cannot get my nitrates below 40, so I purchased a small cleaning crew, last night. I got 3 margarita snails and 2 red-legged hermit crabs. I may go get more live rock and see if my nitrate level will go down. I've thought about adding a refugium and a protein skimmer, but I don't want to add in too much with this small tank, so I am not completely sure what I should be adding.
Thanks!
Glen in Atlanta
PS, is there anyone on this board from the Atlanta area?
 

unleashed

Active Member
ok last thing you want to do is add more life at this point.you defianly need to do some water changes your nitrates shoulde be 0 mabe you can toss in some mirco algae to help with the nitates your temp may be on the low side for your pollups.i dont know all the terminaligies yet what is ppm?it realy sounds like your tank is still cycling i would recomend at this point removing allof your fish and placing them in qt for a while get rid of that ich and let your tank cycle without them for a while.at this point theer is no fast solution to your delema.good luck
 

gmusick

Member
I am not sure what ppm means either, but the explaination of it is "total buffering capacity". My temp is running around 79. If that is low, what should I keep it so that it is still safe for my fish and current inverts? I can't figure out why I still have nitrates. I know that my tank is not still cycling. My ammonia and nitrites have been non-existant for quite some time, but my nitrates seem to hover around 40, even after a water change. What kind of life do you recommend? I don't have sufficient lighting for any corals ( I just have florescent lights ), so are you suggesting that I get more hermits and snails? I don't have a QT, so I am thinking about getting a UV Sterilizer.
Thanks!
Glen in Atlanta
 

ophiura

Active Member
First -
It is very rare to get nitrates to 0 without the addition of a refugium or nitrate export of some sort. This is nice, but nitrates at this level are not fatal and not, IMO, the cause of your issues. I have worked on systems with nitrates easily 3 - 5 times your levels. 40, IMO, is not terrible for a FO system. I do not believe you will get it to 0.
You have nitrates because you really have no mechanism for removing much of them. They simply accumulate in the system, as the ultimate break down product in biological filtration. Some will be removed by bacteria deep within LR, some with water changes...but other than that you have no way to remove them (hence deep sand bed and refugium arguments). What goes in as food (and I would suspect there might be some overfeeding) ends up as nitrates. I am not truly convinced that a clean up crew will really alleviate nitrate levels-- IMO they will help prevent ammonia spike due to decaying food lying around and just release that ammonia (as their waste) slowly. Clean up crews are not bad things, but because they are living, they produce waste too.
But I am concerned about your pH and "ppm" issues. I would like some clarification on two things - can you get an alkalinity and calcium reading? May need to get those at an LFS.
I see no reason, personally, to continue spending money on bacterial additives...if you saw ammonia and nitrite issues, that would be another story. I am somewhat uncomfortable with the "speed" of the cycle and whether it was at true hard cycle, but if you do not see ammonia with the fish in there, then it may still have worked.
Crushed coral is not ideal...you may wish to change it out, but that is a read and research + personal decision.
I would suggest additional powerheads for circulation, but do not feel a UV is necessary.
 

gmusick

Member
I haven't gotten a calcium test yet, but ppm is the total alkalinity and it is currently at 300+ (tester shows green for 300, which is max reading, and mine is blue) and my pH is about 8.4. I do not have any corals, currently, except for a few mushrooms on a few live rock, but I do intend to go that direction. I am feeding twice a day (either 1 brine shimp plus cube or 1 emerald entree cube per day and 1 feeding of marine flakes). Maybe I back off to just the frozen food once per day? I have a stupid question (like my other ones aren't), what do I attach a powerhead to if I don't have an undergravel filter? I am used to sitting them on top of tubes which are stuck in the undergravel filter.
Thanks again!
Glen in Atlanta
 

ophiura

Active Member
They come with suction cups and are hung at various levels in the tank, or so that they create surface agitation. In taller tanks I like to insure that there is total circulation throughout the tank, which tends to be a problem.
I believe you may be feeding a bit heavily, IMO - you have 2 chromis and the hawkfish? Not sure if I have that right. Try feeding once a day. Personally I am not a big fan of brine shrimp. Or smaller amounts twice a day...it is a rough estimate but fishes stomachs are roughly the size of their eyes. So they don't need much though they will continue eating.
The issues, IMO, with the other fish (anthias, tang) were that they were inappropriate fish (delicate and not suitable for tank size or age). I am afraid you might not get many other fish in there....
Do you siphon your crushed coral during water changes? Do you keep the filter pad well rinsed?
 

gmusick

Member
Thanks for the quick reply!
I do siphon my CC during water changes where I can get to it without disturbing my rocks. I have two filters in my Emperor 280... I have a charcoal filter, which I clean every other water change and replace once every couple of months and I have phosphate balls in a basket that also fits into my 280. In addition, the Emporer 280 has a bio wheel and I clean it when I clean the charcoal filter and clean the phosphate balls.
I think I stated earlier, that I have added a small cleanup crew to my tank... 3 margarita snails and 2 scarlet legged hermits. I just added a few more... 3 nasarius snails, 3 blue legged hermits and 2 peppermint shrimp, although, it looks like my flame hawk has taken quite a fancy to the smaller peppermint shrimp... I may have to take it back and get a larger one.
Thanks for all the help!
Glen in Atlanta
 

ophiura

Active Member
Hawkfish are predators of shrimp...that could be an issue.
How do you rinse out your biowheel? Just important never to rinse in fresh/tap water. I would rinse out the filter pads in the filters more often - maybe once a week at least. All they do is trap debris which rots there.
 

gmusick

Member
Yeah... it's strange... I have a cleaner and another peppermint shrimp that the hawk ignores. The smaller one, the hawk stalks and chases, although, I believe that if he wanted to catch it, he could.
I clean out the bio wheel in RO water, poured into the same container that I mix up my saltwater in.
Glen in Atlanta!
I appreciate all your help!
 
Top