Fuge
- Thread starter infalable
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rangermonroe
Member
Use weld-on. it is designed for chemically welding acrylic. You probably can ger away with using silicone sealant but the weld on is about the same cost in the long run and will give a lot better finished look.
There are different consistencies of the weld on product. When you buy it ( from your local plastics shop) tell them what you are doing, and they can point you to the correct product. I have used WELD-On #3 with great success, but it is very thin(watery), and not as forgiving of poor quality cuts as the thicker consistency formulae may be. I had to thicken it up with acrylic "sawdust" to seal leaks, but am very happy with the outcome.
There are different consistencies of the weld on product. When you buy it ( from your local plastics shop) tell them what you are doing, and they can point you to the correct product. I have used WELD-On #3 with great success, but it is very thin(watery), and not as forgiving of poor quality cuts as the thicker consistency formulae may be. I had to thicken it up with acrylic "sawdust" to seal leaks, but am very happy with the outcome.
J
joecavender
Guest
ranger monroe how thick of plexy glass did you use and do you have trouble with it bowing also can i use plain silcone from lowes with out the any leaching from it to worry about after it drys? thank you for your input
rangermonroe
Member
I am in the low income housing business, and us "slum lords" know each other. One of the other landlords uses 1/4 inch plexi glass for windows, and knowing my SWF hobby, asked me if I wanted the scraps. I picked up a pile of 1/4 in acrylic for free and went to experimenting. So far I have made 2 refugiums, a breeder/HOB fuge, and a housing for my MH ballasts. Oh, and a cake plate for Mrs rangermonroe. But that is the limit to my experience. I really liked the WELD-On, but I did use silicone on the end panel of the first fuge. So far with no problems.
If you are going to use silicone, first make sure that both surfaces are very clean. Have rags/ paper towels handy, (this is a messy operation) and attach peices with a continuous bead. To smooth out the bead, I use dishwashing soap in a cup to dip my finger in so the silicone doesn't stick to me. Clean up any "oops" before it dries, because you will need a razor to clean it up afterwards. Razors and acrylic dont mix...the blade will gouge it and it will be unsightly.
If you notice on the photo, I placed a cross brace in the center top...ie, no bowing at all.
Silicone from lowes should pose no threat of leaching after it cures 24/48 hours.
If you are going to use silicone, first make sure that both surfaces are very clean. Have rags/ paper towels handy, (this is a messy operation) and attach peices with a continuous bead. To smooth out the bead, I use dishwashing soap in a cup to dip my finger in so the silicone doesn't stick to me. Clean up any "oops" before it dries, because you will need a razor to clean it up afterwards. Razors and acrylic dont mix...the blade will gouge it and it will be unsightly.
If you notice on the photo, I placed a cross brace in the center top...ie, no bowing at all.
Silicone from lowes should pose no threat of leaching after it cures 24/48 hours.
rangermonroe
Member
I think that would be over kill. When the stuff sticks together, it is welded/ melted together. It is actually pretty cool to do. "pressure test it out in the yard, if you have any leaks, mix some of the acrylic sawdust with the weld on and spread it over the hole. It will dry clear.
smuvcrmnal
New Member
Hey guys I agree w/ RangerMonroe about using the weld-on, once it's on it's on, however, I also ran a bead of silicone (Aquarium Goop) along the joints after using the weld-on just in case. You can get the Aquarium Goop from Lowes and Home Depot, but you can also get the weld-on from: , they will have it and many others that you may need for your project.:happy:
rangermonroe
Member
I'm pretty sure that plexiglass is a brand name of acrylic.