Originally posted by iluvfish
I am using a UGF (I am planning on changing this to wet/dry this week) with crushed coral. I have two 802 powerheads and a Seaclone protein skimmer. I am also going to change to sand after I get the wet/dry set up for about 6 weeks. (This was advice given through this forum).
Ok, what I think you really need to do right now is stop and think about what you want to do with your tank. Do you want a reef tank? Do you want a fish only tank with live rock? Seriously, you seem you want to go with both, including fish that are just not compatible with reefs. Like having eels and pufferfish, but also wanting anemones, etc. You must make a decision. In a reef tank, the emphasis is on inverts and corals, not fish. Yes, you can have fish---fish that are considered reef safe—not eels and pufferfish. So, here, I think you need to seriously consider what you want to do.
Also, if you want a reef tank, forget about that wet-dry system. Wet-drys do not provide adequate export of nitrates, thus, what you have is a tank with high nitrate. Nitrate is not compatible with reef tanks. The goal for a reef tank, is zero or only trace nitrate. Besides, there are much better filtration methods to use for reefs [that are a lot more fun and rewarding then a mechanical filter]. If you want an aggressive setup however, with only aggressive fish and live rock, then you can go with the wet-dry. You need to make up your mind and not make costly premature purchases of products you don’t need and might find useless later on.
I understand now about the Reef tank and the only things left in the tank is about 15 pounds of live rock, a puffer fish, a grouper, a snowflake eel and a damsel. I plan to get a QT, but do not have one at this time.
If all you have is 15 lbs of LR, then find a temporary home for your LR. A Rubbermaid container with a powerhead will do. Do hyposalinity in your main tank with all your fish in it. Go to the FAQ section, and check out the post there on hyposalinity. You need at least a glass hydrometer, or, preferably, a refractometer. This procedure will really benefit the fish, even if they don’t have ich.
My ph is 8.4, Ammonia 0, Nitrites 0, Nitrates 30. I know I need to do a water change.
If you begin hyposalinity, that will be enough for water changes. Use good quality dechlorinated water---are you using RO or bottled water? Be sure to check pH as hyposaline water tends to lower pH fast. You will want to check on this 2xs a day.
The puffer's eyes are not popped out. They are slightly cloudy and have a few white spots on them. The biggest thing is that his mouth looks swollen?? He can't close it. He is still eating though and I have already treated the tank with 5 tablets of Maracyn2 for 2 days per the advice from LFS. (I have a 55gal).
Tell me what you are seeing on the fish, or any of the fish. Is it ich, or just cloudy eyes? Rapid breathing? Slime on skin? Swollen gills? Get a magnifying glass out and spend 30 mins looking at your fish. Provide us with All details. Fins, mouth, gills. Then report back on any abnormality, discoloration, odd behavior, stress symptoms, etc. Is there something in the puffer’s mouth? What have you feed this fish? Live foods??
After a water change, do you think I should continue with the Maracyn2? BTW the grouper and other fish look fine.
No more med until we can decide what the problem is.
