geen algae??
- Thread starter scrapman
- Start date
lmforbis
Well-Known Member
I am having the same issue. I have clumps of stiff green algae, similar look to chaeto, growing from some of my rocks but PO4, NO2, and NO3 are 0. I have a refugium full of macro. I have cut back on the light cycle in the display tank to 12 hours of blue and about 8 hours of full spectrum, the fuge has a similar cycle but the lights are on over night. I have also cut back on the amount I feed the fish. The lighting change and less food has only been in place for the last week or so. It may be too soon to know if it will help. I do 10% water changes every week to dilute the problem and have switched to RO water. What additional measures would you suggest to lower the "invisible nutrients" and keep the algae in check.
Bryce E
Active Member
Imforbis.. good idea switching to RO water if you were using tap. That is sure to create algae problems for you. And Yeah out competing for a food source like Bang guy said definitely helps. But in my experience you will have algae appearances in your system even if all of your parameters are in line.
When you have water quality issues or use tap water etc.. you may see it become out of control or result in large blooms. But even in a healthy system you are still creating an environment in which algae can grow. In addition to nitrates and phosphates as a food source it is still a plant that feeds through photosynthesis. I prefer long light periods in my tank.. not only for the coral but for my own viewing pleasure. There are plenty of options for getting it back in check. First is always making sure you have good water quality... that you're not overfeeding etc. Second is addressing lighting. If your bulbs are old or are in the proper spectrum. And again like bang guy said you can also utilize macros to out compete the additional food sourced for the algae. You may also want to see if you have an adequate clean up crew. My water parameters are great and the only real way that I keep my algae fully in check is by having enough hermits and snails to keep everything clean.
When you have water quality issues or use tap water etc.. you may see it become out of control or result in large blooms. But even in a healthy system you are still creating an environment in which algae can grow. In addition to nitrates and phosphates as a food source it is still a plant that feeds through photosynthesis. I prefer long light periods in my tank.. not only for the coral but for my own viewing pleasure. There are plenty of options for getting it back in check. First is always making sure you have good water quality... that you're not overfeeding etc. Second is addressing lighting. If your bulbs are old or are in the proper spectrum. And again like bang guy said you can also utilize macros to out compete the additional food sourced for the algae. You may also want to see if you have an adequate clean up crew. My water parameters are great and the only real way that I keep my algae fully in check is by having enough hermits and snails to keep everything clean.
bang guy
Moderator
It would actually be more efficient to increase the size of the water changes. I understand there's a convenience factor for water changes though.
scrapman
Member
Thanks..... great presentation of the possible causes. I use RODI eater and I have a protein skimmer..... the water is crystal clear. I just added Phosguard in my Fluval canister filter..... I have to looked up "Bryopsis"..... I do not have any cleanup crew...... I'm going to get some. Thanks.
pegasus
Well-Known Member
If I may make a suggestion... rather than lugging around 5 gallon buckets, why not use a heavy duty tote, or plastic garbage can, to mix your water in? You may already do that and then transfer the water to the buckets for transport to the tank... I don't know. What I do know is that if you mix in a vat (or can), it's a lot easier to use a pump to transfer the water to the tank. It might be difficult if the mixing area isn't near the tank, but it's definitely doable. My RO/DI unit is in the basement along with my mixing vat. I use a 2400GPH pump to fill my tank in the kitchen above. I didn't want to carry six 5 gallon buckets of saltwater from the basement every time I needed a water change! Depending on the amount of water needed, you could use a plastic garbage can with wheels to roll the water up to the tank. Drop a pump with flexible hose in the can, and turn it on. No heavy lifting, and no water sloshing everywhere. Just a suggestion...
pegasus
Well-Known Member
Bryopsis can be difficult to eradicate once it becomes established. Emerald crabs eat bryopsis, but not in huge quantities. If you have a large outbreak, it will take several, along with manual removal, to get it under control. Sea hares are ravenous eaters of hair algae, and depending on the amount of algae, can clean a tank out in a week or two. There is a slight risk involved with sea hares, but they are considerably less toxic than cucumbers. Just making suggestions as bryopsis is one of the hardest issues to eliminate. Even if you have perfect water parameters, a moderate infestation will take months to cure. It's the #1 cause of tank teardowns for a good reason...
beaslbob
Well-Known Member
sounds like you need to do a littler rebalancing so that the refugium with macro algae gets the nutrients instead of the ugly algae.
Try killing the display lights and suspend all feeding for a week or two or until the ugly algae dies off. then resume with less lighting and feeding a adjust so the uglies don't come back and the macros/corals/corraline thrive.
my .02
Try killing the display lights and suspend all feeding for a week or two or until the ugly algae dies off. then resume with less lighting and feeding a adjust so the uglies don't come back and the macros/corals/corraline thrive.
my .02