Geothermal Chiller!!

joshd123

Member
I am looking for someone who might know a bit about plex piping. I know they run it in house slabs to heat the floors. So I am going to use plex piping to cool my tank. I am going to dig a ditch about 2 foot deap (well below the frost line for Arkansas) with my excavator but I dont know how many feet of line I will need to get the job done. I don't want to put so much that the water is to cold when it comes back into the tank.
How many feet of line would be good to start with? I am thinking about 20 foot ditch so that is 40 feet in the loop that will be underground.
 

ifirefight

Active Member
Originally Posted by Joshd123
http:///forum/post/2670926
I am looking for someone who might know a bit about plex piping. I know they run it in house slabs to heat the floors. So I am going to use plex piping to cool my tank. I am going to dig a ditch about 2 foot deap (well below the frost line for Arkansas) with my excavator but I dont know how many feet of line I will need to get the job done. I don't want to put so much that the water is to cold when it comes back into the tank.
How many feet of line would be good to start with? I am thinking about 20 foot ditch so that is 40 feet in the loop that will be underground.
Do a search of this site. I know for a fact that I have seen at least 3 different threads on this exact topic. However...I do not believe anybody has succeeded.
 

wattsupdoc

Active Member
I followed a thread along on another board. I believe they were successful. With others who have had success posting. The problem is that pex or pvc doesn't not dissipate heat very well. sure they use these materials, but it takes quite a bit of it to do it. However, titanium, and aluminium as well as copper do dissipate well. I'm sure if you run enough of the pex then you'll be able to achieve the temp drop your looking for. Unfortunately I don't know how to tell you to do the math to know what you need. I don't know if there's anybody on this site who does know how either. Hopefully I'm wrong. However, over on the other big reef message board you can find a thread outlining all this. BTW, I don't believe you can get it too cold. You'll only drop to whatever the earth temp is. You may need to control how much flow goes through it though. A ranco temp controller and a relay on a properly sized pump will solve this for you. Using a ball valve also.
You need to take into consideration the possibility of contamination also. Personally, I would do a open system through the ground source. Now you have the challenge of how to handle the transfer in the DT. Using a titanium coil in a high flow area of sump will work for the actual transfer, a closed system with only fresh water will work for the ground source. You'll likely need to bleed off air from time to time also re prime with H20. Also there may be an issue with a closed system becoming stagnant, leaking and contaminating the DT. Or just diluting if leaking in the DT system.
The thread I was following I believe used two different loops. One the ground source, the other from the DT to a separate container of sorts. To somehow isolate each other or something to protect the DT, or in order to use a copper coil, I cant remember exactly.
BTW, just wanna make sure to say that using a copper or aluminium coil in direct contact with SW is a big ole no-no.
 

joshd123

Member
I like the ideal of a close loop with a titanium probe in my sump... I just dont know where to get titanium pipe from. I wonder how many feet it would take to drop the temp 4 * in my tank... It is a 220 gallon system.
If I did a close loop I could set the pump on a temp. controller.
 
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