getting ready to set tank up.
- Thread starter llmoe
- Start date
chipmaker
Active Member
Where did you get the info it has to set for 6 weeks? There really is no set time frame one way or another. It all depends o n how fast it cycles and if your going with live rock that is good quality it may cyclea dn be ready to start putting critters in within a week or it could be 3 months if its poor rock. Whatever you do, do not use any dead shrimp etc to cycle with, as you have all you need to get a good cycle started and going with live rock and sand......Do yourself a favor, start off with RODI water, and continue to use only that kind of water. I don't remember off the top of my head on heater size, but whatever it is divide that wattage figure in half and buy two heaters that add up to what size you need or just a bit more, instead of using one single larger heater.
You can save a lot of headaches and testing etc if you buy one of those stick on ammonia indicator alert pads by Sea Chem. They hang inside the tank on a small suciton cup. The card has 3 or 4 color segments to it (depends on the model of indicator) and it changes color according to ammonia levels. You can tell at a glance when / if ammonia levels go up, and when they return to zero, allwithout having to test. There is no need to know if its at .05 or .09 opr .0 or 10, you just need to know it either has or does not have ammonia in it, as the amount matters not for all practical purposes. I use these indicator pads allthe time and they work fine. You can always leave them in the tank after its setup and cycled for a quick visual, but usually its not necessary as a tank stocked properly with sufficient live rock and not overloaded with fish to offset the bio load capacioty is highly unlikely even if a fish dies to get a high ammonia level to the point it is deadly....
You can save a lot of headaches and testing etc if you buy one of those stick on ammonia indicator alert pads by Sea Chem. They hang inside the tank on a small suciton cup. The card has 3 or 4 color segments to it (depends on the model of indicator) and it changes color according to ammonia levels. You can tell at a glance when / if ammonia levels go up, and when they return to zero, allwithout having to test. There is no need to know if its at .05 or .09 opr .0 or 10, you just need to know it either has or does not have ammonia in it, as the amount matters not for all practical purposes. I use these indicator pads allthe time and they work fine. You can always leave them in the tank after its setup and cycled for a quick visual, but usually its not necessary as a tank stocked properly with sufficient live rock and not overloaded with fish to offset the bio load capacioty is highly unlikely even if a fish dies to get a high ammonia level to the point it is deadly....
mandarin w
Member
I agree with splitting the heating wattage in half and useing two. With only one you will have one warm area in the tank and by the time you get to the other side it will be alot cooler. Also if one of the heaters should malfuntion at least there is something there until you get the situation fixed.
Find yourself an RO/DI unit. You will be useing alot of water for setting this tank up, water changes and topping off. This will save you alot of money and headaches in the long run. Not to mention you know the history of the unit. You know when the filters where changed because you did it. You can't know that at stores unless they tell you, and are they telling you the truth???
Mix your water before you put it into the tank, Don't ever add salt to your tank, it will be DEADLY. Get all your test kits and have them there ready to use. You will need to test your water often. and it is best to have them there incase something starts to happen at 730 Sunday night. Most LFS are closed on Mondays, you may not be able to wait two days to test your water to see what is going on. Another reason to have your RO/DI unit on hand. You never know when there may be a problem and sometimes you need to take care of it right then and there.
You didn't mention a skimmer. You should have a protien skimmer on your tank. Powerheads to circulate the water through out the tank, you don't want any dead spots, can cause problems. Get a good themometer, you need to keep the tank at level temps.
Your lighting will depend on what you want to keep. Fish only, soft corals or the LPS's and SPS's. Once you decide what it is you want in your tank, then we can help you figure out what lighting to put on your tank.
Mostly be patient. Take your time. This hobby can not and will not be rushed. When you try, you will end up with alot of problems. Also, it's a good idea to set up you QT (quarinteen tank) now too.So it will be ready to go, for when you start buying fish, Never put a brand new fish in your display tank. Alway quarrentine fish for 2 to 4 weeks before you put them in your main tank.
Find yourself an RO/DI unit. You will be useing alot of water for setting this tank up, water changes and topping off. This will save you alot of money and headaches in the long run. Not to mention you know the history of the unit. You know when the filters where changed because you did it. You can't know that at stores unless they tell you, and are they telling you the truth???
Mix your water before you put it into the tank, Don't ever add salt to your tank, it will be DEADLY. Get all your test kits and have them there ready to use. You will need to test your water often. and it is best to have them there incase something starts to happen at 730 Sunday night. Most LFS are closed on Mondays, you may not be able to wait two days to test your water to see what is going on. Another reason to have your RO/DI unit on hand. You never know when there may be a problem and sometimes you need to take care of it right then and there.
You didn't mention a skimmer. You should have a protien skimmer on your tank. Powerheads to circulate the water through out the tank, you don't want any dead spots, can cause problems. Get a good themometer, you need to keep the tank at level temps.
Your lighting will depend on what you want to keep. Fish only, soft corals or the LPS's and SPS's. Once you decide what it is you want in your tank, then we can help you figure out what lighting to put on your tank.
Mostly be patient. Take your time. This hobby can not and will not be rushed. When you try, you will end up with alot of problems. Also, it's a good idea to set up you QT (quarinteen tank) now too.So it will be ready to go, for when you start buying fish, Never put a brand new fish in your display tank. Alway quarrentine fish for 2 to 4 weeks before you put them in your main tank.
llmoe
New Member
OH NO no rush here. My tank has been sitting in my wall for over 6 months while researching and getting stuff for it. I have a nice filter system with a skimmer. Just wasn't sure about heater. Thanks for the advice on two heaters.
What tests should I keep on hand and I should also have a Fractometer instead of a hydrometer. If I am calling them right.lol
I was always told to wait for about 6 weeks. I am using live fiji rock. It that good to do? Do you think 180 pds is enough?
I know if I want to add coral then I will have to upgrade my lights. For now it will be rock and a few fish.
What tests should I keep on hand and I should also have a Fractometer instead of a hydrometer. If I am calling them right.lol
I was always told to wait for about 6 weeks. I am using live fiji rock. It that good to do? Do you think 180 pds is enough?
I know if I want to add coral then I will have to upgrade my lights. For now it will be rock and a few fish.
i know i do and i have 90lbs in a 75gal.
mandarin w
Member
Good job,
It is called a refragmeter. This will give you a more acurate reading on your salinity. It is best it keep it around 1.025. but as long is it is between 1.022 and 1.026 you should be ok.
As far a test to keep on hand, you will need Amonia, Nitrate, Nitrite and Ph level. You might think about a Phosphate test also. But it is not really needed for a little while. Before you start adding corals you will want to get calcium, Alk, and maybe a few others, depends on what you want to keep as far as corals. If you havent yet, you might want to pick up some books on fish, corals and reef keeping in general.
And most importantly keep that camera close. and take lots of pictures. That is our favorite thing to do here is look at other's tanks. and their progress. Well it may not be the most important, but it is up there.
It is called a refragmeter. This will give you a more acurate reading on your salinity. It is best it keep it around 1.025. but as long is it is between 1.022 and 1.026 you should be ok.
As far a test to keep on hand, you will need Amonia, Nitrate, Nitrite and Ph level. You might think about a Phosphate test also. But it is not really needed for a little while. Before you start adding corals you will want to get calcium, Alk, and maybe a few others, depends on what you want to keep as far as corals. If you havent yet, you might want to pick up some books on fish, corals and reef keeping in general.
And most importantly keep that camera close. and take lots of pictures. That is our favorite thing to do here is look at other's tanks. and their progress. Well it may not be the most important, but it is up there.
llmoe
New Member
Thanks for the help.
My plan is to put the rock in with them heaters and then start filling. Should I do it with buckets and mix the salt in the buckets before I dump into the tank or can I fill the tank up with the water and rock and then add salt since I am going to let it sit?
My plan is to put the rock in with them heaters and then start filling. Should I do it with buckets and mix the salt in the buckets before I dump into the tank or can I fill the tank up with the water and rock and then add salt since I am going to let it sit?
chipmaker
Active Member
At least mix it up close in the buckets first. The closer the better. Salt mix that gets into live rock straight can cause problems with killing things off as its pretty stout stuff. Put a plate or dish on a plate down on the sand bed so you do not stir up sand bed, or trickle it on over the live rock. The mix in the buckets only needs to be in the ball game ..say if your shooting for 1.026 and the bucket is 1.024 thats good for now, as you can always adjust it once the tank is filled.
renogaw
Active Member
you dont want to put freshwater onto your live saltwater rocks.
best thing to do is fill your tank half full and then mix in your salt. then put your rock in AFTER the saltwater is completely mixed and at the right salinity. this way you don't overfill your tank. put down the base rock that you will use later to build your aquascape, then put in your sand. then build up your rock wall and add water as needed. this way if your rock falls over, the sand will cushion the landing and not break your bottom of your tank.
don't let your heater run without it being submerged in water for like 15 mins to prevent explosion.
best thing to do is fill your tank half full and then mix in your salt. then put your rock in AFTER the saltwater is completely mixed and at the right salinity. this way you don't overfill your tank. put down the base rock that you will use later to build your aquascape, then put in your sand. then build up your rock wall and add water as needed. this way if your rock falls over, the sand will cushion the landing and not break your bottom of your tank.
don't let your heater run without it being submerged in water for like 15 mins to prevent explosion.