sharkboy13
Active Member
while there r beginner fish threads i thot all of us herpers would start a good beginner herp thread. here r the candidates i have thot of, feel free to add or make suggestions:
kingsnakes
if held as babies these snakes will be very tame as adults. most kings grow to 5ft so the enclosure should be minimum half as long as the snake and atleast one quarter, but bigger is better
corn snakes
corn snakes r excellent beginner species as they r very docile, mostly inexspensive and usually grow to about 3ft. adult corns usually will eat pinkies (baby mice) to adults.
CB ball pythons
these r one of the best starter constrictors for those of us that want a little excitement in our in lives. these snakes generally grow to 4-5ft. if u obtain a bad tempered baby snake then just excercise holding it w/ gloves and as it calms down begin to hold it naturally. adults will usually eat rat hoppers or adult rats. NOTE:if u acquire a python that refuses to eat DO NOT worry this is typical ball python behavior, he will begin to eat w/in the next 2-4wks.
rat snakes
refer to corns. added side note these snakes get about 5 feet and can be mildly aggressive.
milk snakes
refer to kingsnake
leopard geckos
leopard geckos need about a 2ft long by 1.5ft wide tank w/ a intense light and sandy substrate. as with ALL lizards they require UV and UVB lighting to maintain calcium levels.
bearded dragons
beardies r one of the best lizards to have, they have good personalities and r often offered in amazing patterns/colors. these lizards require a diet of insects and some veggies. altho DO NOT use icerberg lettuce as this contains a deadly bacteria for lizards, tortoises, and terrestrial turtles. once again as with all lizards they must have a UV and UVB bulb to to sustain calcium levels
anoles
tree frogs (excluding red eyes)
tho tree frogs require heavily upon moisture it is not necessary to mist them all the time, instead have moss or a water retaining substrate such as crushed coconut bark. tree frogs should have plenty of places to climb and should only be handled w/ rubber gloves as any acids or other liquids will burn their absorbent skin. these animals once again need a insect diet.
blue tongue skinks
these lizards should be cautioned as some r very territorial and aggressive and will cause and nasty bite. as with all lizards they need UV UVB lights and should have a diet of insects and veggies. a soft substrate should be had as well as many hiding places.
rose hair tarantulashobbyists should be wary of these tarantulas, altho they may seem calm always be aware of theire tempermant, if u should do something wrong they will flick stinging hairs into ur eyes nose an mouth. they should have a wet sponge and insect diet as well as a soft substrate and hiding place.
emperor scorpsrefer to tarantulas except replace stinging hairs w/ burning needle like sting
fire belly toads and newts
these if had should indefinetley have a enclosure that is mostly water with some resting spots. these amphibs r poisonous so if u irriatate them do no lick them (im not telling the adults im telling the children of the adults) they should almost nevr be handled except when necessary. they should have a feeder guppy and insect diet.
CB mali uromastxy
these can be somewhat delicate animals and often refuse to eat if WC, UVB and UV should be had as well as most lizards and prefer a veggie diet but will accept insects. they should have a hiding spot to get away from the heat.
sooner or later ill make a thread about new herps most hobbyists should avoid because of difficulty of care or danger
note to beginners, if u r limited on space then u should get a snake for they do not require as large a enclosure. if not setup a 20gal aquarium and have a leopard gecko or CB mali uro
kingsnakes
if held as babies these snakes will be very tame as adults. most kings grow to 5ft so the enclosure should be minimum half as long as the snake and atleast one quarter, but bigger is better
corn snakes
corn snakes r excellent beginner species as they r very docile, mostly inexspensive and usually grow to about 3ft. adult corns usually will eat pinkies (baby mice) to adults.
CB ball pythons
these r one of the best starter constrictors for those of us that want a little excitement in our in lives. these snakes generally grow to 4-5ft. if u obtain a bad tempered baby snake then just excercise holding it w/ gloves and as it calms down begin to hold it naturally. adults will usually eat rat hoppers or adult rats. NOTE:if u acquire a python that refuses to eat DO NOT worry this is typical ball python behavior, he will begin to eat w/in the next 2-4wks.
rat snakes
refer to corns. added side note these snakes get about 5 feet and can be mildly aggressive.
milk snakes
refer to kingsnake
leopard geckos
leopard geckos need about a 2ft long by 1.5ft wide tank w/ a intense light and sandy substrate. as with ALL lizards they require UV and UVB lighting to maintain calcium levels.
bearded dragons
beardies r one of the best lizards to have, they have good personalities and r often offered in amazing patterns/colors. these lizards require a diet of insects and some veggies. altho DO NOT use icerberg lettuce as this contains a deadly bacteria for lizards, tortoises, and terrestrial turtles. once again as with all lizards they must have a UV and UVB bulb to to sustain calcium levels
anoles
tree frogs (excluding red eyes)
tho tree frogs require heavily upon moisture it is not necessary to mist them all the time, instead have moss or a water retaining substrate such as crushed coconut bark. tree frogs should have plenty of places to climb and should only be handled w/ rubber gloves as any acids or other liquids will burn their absorbent skin. these animals once again need a insect diet.
blue tongue skinks
these lizards should be cautioned as some r very territorial and aggressive and will cause and nasty bite. as with all lizards they need UV UVB lights and should have a diet of insects and veggies. a soft substrate should be had as well as many hiding places.
rose hair tarantulashobbyists should be wary of these tarantulas, altho they may seem calm always be aware of theire tempermant, if u should do something wrong they will flick stinging hairs into ur eyes nose an mouth. they should have a wet sponge and insect diet as well as a soft substrate and hiding place.
emperor scorpsrefer to tarantulas except replace stinging hairs w/ burning needle like sting
fire belly toads and newts
these if had should indefinetley have a enclosure that is mostly water with some resting spots. these amphibs r poisonous so if u irriatate them do no lick them (im not telling the adults im telling the children of the adults) they should almost nevr be handled except when necessary. they should have a feeder guppy and insect diet.
CB mali uromastxy
these can be somewhat delicate animals and often refuse to eat if WC, UVB and UV should be had as well as most lizards and prefer a veggie diet but will accept insects. they should have a hiding spot to get away from the heat.
sooner or later ill make a thread about new herps most hobbyists should avoid because of difficulty of care or danger
note to beginners, if u r limited on space then u should get a snake for they do not require as large a enclosure. if not setup a 20gal aquarium and have a leopard gecko or CB mali uro
I also lost Dragon to another supposedly certifeid vet. Dragon had started changing to a sickly orange color. It crept up her legs and slowly corvered her body. The vet diagnosed it a metabolic bone disease. A very tipicle problem with reptiles, a lot of owners aren't feeding their green friends enough calcium causing dicoloration and fragile bones and eventually death. I knew this was not the problem with Dragon, but I trusted the vet to do what was best. In the end a long over due exray of her corpse revealed that Dragon had died of impacted eggs. Her own body had poisoned her......the vet apologized many times over. That was many years ago. Iguanas take a lot of time, almost as much time as having a 2 year old. A beautiful animal.