Good FO 36-gal stocking list for newbie??

[jayjay5531]

Hi, I'm new to the hobby.
I have an old freshwater set-up that's 36 gallons (with a cascade 700 canister filter) that i want to turn into a new saltwater tank. Apparently all I need is a protein skimmer to start a basic FO set-up? (Well in addition to the salt and conditioner and hydrometer and all that). If I can last a few months without messing up, maybe I'll eventually add live rock and inverts, I don't know yet.
Anyways, what's a good stocking list for the tank I described? Small relatively easy fish that I know and like include firefish and clownfish, but I'm open to all suggestions.
Thanks!
JJ

 

[geridoc]

JJ: IMHO you should use the cannister filter just as a circulating pump, not a filter, and add some live rock to begin the tank cycle. You don't need much, just enough to seed the tank with some diversity. You can add dead rock for landscaping and it will become live eventually (and save some $$$ on the way). With salt tanks it is really worth doing it right at the outset, or you will have constant maintenance problems and eventually get fed up and give up on the hobby. You don't need a skimmer at the beginning, so wait until the cycle is complete and you have some organisms in the tank, then add a skimmer if you feel you need one. As for stock, you have indicated an interest in firefish and clownfish - good choices since they are colorful and (especially the clownfish) personable as well. Small blennies are also a good choice, as well as my all time favorite, the flame hawkfish. Keep asking questions on this site and you will come to enjoy your tank rather than becoming a slave to it.

 

[jayjay5531]

Hi, thanks so much for your response! I just had a few follow up questions:
1.) So are you basically saying that you don't believe in the FO tank? As in, live rock is always a necessity? My freshwater tank is cycled and there is a lot of bio-media in my canister filter, but I assume the nitrifying bacteria for freshwater are different than what I need for saltwater?
2.) How do I go about changing from freshwater to saltwater? Should I do a 100% water change, or should I just add salt to the existing freshwater? Does the cycled freshwater that's already in the tank provide any benefit that new tap water won't?
3.) What kind of substrate should I use? I have heard about "live sand" but I don't know where to get it.
4.) How often should I do water changes? Like, what's the standard (i.e. freshwater aquarists generally cite "25% weekly" for an standard appropriately stocked community tank.)
5.) Do I need a powerhead or anything else? Is it true that reef fish like very strong currents?
Thanks so much!!

 

[geridoc]

Quote:
Originally Posted by jayjay5531 http:///t/395276/good-fo-36-gal-stocking-list-for-newbie#post_3518988
Hi, thanks so much for your response! I just had a few follow up questions:
1.) So are you basically saying that you don't believe in the FO tank? As in, live rock is always a necessity? My freshwater tank is cycled and there is a lot of bio-media in my canister filter, but I assume the nitrifying bacteria for freshwater are different than what I need for saltwater? Not at all - I have a FO, but the rock becomes live no matter what. The diversity I referred to included things like bristle worms and assorted kinds of snails (and, yes, some pests, too) in addition to the nitrifying bacteria. IMHO, cannister filter units just give you something to clean regularly, and who needs that.
2.) How do I go about changing from freshwater to saltwater? Should I do a 100% water change, or should I just add salt to the existing freshwater? Does the cycled freshwater that's already in the tank provide any benefit that new tap water won't? You cannot use the water from your freshwater tank to convert to salt, and you should never use tap water for any purpose in a marine tank. Dump the water, clean the tank with vinegar to remove the scale, add RODI water and then salt to a sg of 1.020-1.025. Tap water will promote diatom and long hair algae growth in your tanki. Just look through the forums here to see how many new aquairasts are totally frustrated by these problems, which are preventable.
3.) What kind of substrate should I use? I have heard about "live sand" but I don't know where to get it. I like a sand substrate, but it is a matter of opinion. Some people here like a bare bottomed tank. Live sand is just sand that presumably has beneficial bacteria and perhaps some other organisms in it. You can get it at your local fish store (LFS). They may even sell it at this site.
4.) How often should I do water changes? Like, what's the standard (i.e. freshwater aquarists generally cite "25% weekly" for an standard appropriately stocked community tank.) Again, it is a matter of some opinion. I do 30% changes monthly (but I use a skimmer and an algae scrubber), but I think most here would agree that 25% every week is too much (too much work, too much money).
5.) Do I need a powerhead or anything else? Is it true that reef fish like very strong currents? A powerhead is a very good idea - as Flower on this site frequently says, wave action is the life of the ocean.
Take alook at the stickey at the top of this foruym - there are very good articles that will help you to understand how a marine tank is different from a freshwater tank, and how to maintain and stock your system.
Thanks so much!!

 

[jay0705]

Just to chime in. I have to agree. Salt tanks r the best. But do it rt. Live rock makes it alot easier. So unless u just hate the look of it. Getting atleast a little will pay off ten fold.

 

[saxman]

Good advice all around.
25 years ago, I used to run a canister on my first SW FO setup, and you really do need to keep up on the maintenance of them. Once I switched to FOWLR, everything really made sense in terms of upkeep and biodiversity.
Stay away from crushed coral as a substrate, as it traps detritus and requires regular vacuuming to keep it clean. I prefer #3 or #1 grade aragonite over "sugar-fine" sand because it "lays down" better, but won't trap detritus like CC.
Also, get a refractometer instead of a hydrometer...they're more accurate, more consistent, and have no moving parts.
We run FOWLR exclusively now and have found that live macro algae is a really great addition, as it looks nice, adds movement, harbors pods (great fish food), and gives the fish a good place to hang out.
As for fishes...we like our "things with stings" (lionfishes, waspfishes, scorpionfishes, stingfishes, etc).

 

[jayjay5531]

Quote:
Originally Posted by saxman http:///t/395276/good-fo-36-gal-stocking-list-for-newbie#post_3519113
25 years ago, I used to run a canister on my first SW FO setup, and you really do need to keep up on the maintenance of them. Once I switched to FOWLR, everything really made sense in terms of upkeep and biodiversity.
So what did you use for filtration once you switched to a FOWLR? Or was the live rock the extent of your filtration? Sorry I'm from FW so the idea of not having a mechanical filtration system running constantly is very new to me.

 

[sweatervest13]

I can't speak for Saxman... But the addition of Live Rock really moved the hobby forward by leaps and bounds. It is your bio-filtration.
Your bio filter runs 24/7/365 and it does most of the work. Most folks will run some sort of mechanical filtration and some chemical filtration. The mechanical filtration can be as simple as a filter sock to catch uneaten food and fish waste or as complex as a protein skimmer. And the chemical filtration can be as simple as a bag of carbon in a power filter (or the filter cartridges with carbon {this is both mechanical, and chemical) built into the filter floss). All the way up to a media reactor (for carbon and GFO).
What ever your 3 types of filtration does not negate, water changes and nutrient exportation (harvesting macro algae's) takes care of the rest.
This is a pretty basic explanation there are tons of great resources out there online that go a lot deeper.

 

[jay0705]

I run a very basic fowlr system. Its a 75 gal tank. About 45-50lbs of lr. A hang on back filter. Rated to 90 gal. I use a 12inch air stone for water movement and areation. That's all. I do about 10% water changes weekly.i have 6 fish, 3 shrimp,and snails. Its honestly very easy you just have to check your tank regularly. Ie salinity,temp ,ect

 

[saxman]

Quote:
So what did you use for filtration once you switched to a FOWLR? Or was the live rock the extent of your filtration? Sorry I'm from FW so the idea of not having a mechanical filtration system running constantly is very new to me.
I think I see what's confusing you, and sweatervest13 explained it nicely.
When I quit using the canister, all of my biofiltration was accomplished via the use of live rock (LR). The nitrifying bacteria species live on the surfaces of the rock as well as deep within the rock, since it's porous. It will also eventually colonize your substrate.
The drains to my tanks that use sumps flow into filter socks, which trap any particles that make it that far, and the socks are changed bi-weekly. I wash the socks in the washer with no soap and let them air dry.
In SW setups, you generally allow your CUC (Clean Up Crew) to take care of most of the detritus, uneaten food, etc, so hopefully, there won't be a whole lot of mechanical filtration to worry about.
What did I do with the canisters? I've used them in several ways...part-time additional chemical filtration, canisters also drive chillers nicely in sumpless setups (just run them empty), and I also fill them with LR rubble to run some of our QT/growout setups. You can also use them to add additional flow without adding a PH to the tank.

 

[jayjay5531]

Thanks everyone so much for your help! You guys are the best
I think I'll stick with my canister for now (in addition to all the live rock of course) just because I don't have anything I could use as a sump at the moment. I even put lots of live rock rubble in my canister filter. (If I ever get corals and other stuff I'll get a refugium, which sounds like a good idea from what I've read).
Does anyone have recommendations for a good set of inverts to make up my clean up crew?