Good Phosphate Remover

gmann1139

Active Member
My in-tank fuge, which in the past has been able to keep the phosphates & cyano in check, is losing the battle all of a sudden.
I'm going to investigate causes, but for now, I'm looking for a good phosphate remove to add to my filter to reduce the problem.
Tank is a 30g FOWLR. I have a Hagen HOB filter right now, so I'm looking for something I can put in there, either a pad or bagged media.
What does everyone recommend?
 

gmann1139

Active Member
Ok, I added Purigen at the recommended dosage, which didn't seem to make a difference. So I doubled the amount in there, took out some chaeto, and now, it seems the battle has turned.
to Purigen so far.
 

stanlalee

Active Member
this in included media bag works for me 150g cost like $12 on a 30g (which I have) thats enough for 3 go rounds at several months per go round. you get a little initial dust regardless of how much you rinse it but it clears quickly. just need to place it somewhere water passes thru it.
 

srfisher17

Active Member
Most phos removers are ferric hydroxide. IMO; they work well, but deplete very quickly. I use SeaChem Phosgard and really prefer it. It is inexpensive, less messy, and lasts much longer than the ferric hydroxide products. BTW; I don't believe Purigen is really intended to remove phosphate--it is an all purpose carbon substitute and mainly removes nitrogen compounds & polishes water.
 

stanlalee

Active Member
Originally Posted by srfisher17
http:///forum/post/2845186
Most phos removers are ferric hydroxide. IMO; they work well, but deplete very quickly. I use SeaChem Phosgard and really prefer it. It is inexpensive, less messy, and lasts much longer than the ferric hydroxide products. BTW; I don't believe Purigen is really intended to remove phosphate--it is an all purpose carbon substitute and mainly removes nitrogen compounds & polishes water.
Problem with Phosguard is many soft corals have been proven to react negatively to it (its aluminum oxide media which have been proven to leach and effect certain soft corals. I'd post the link but I cant here. Phosguard specifically was tested).
As far as lasting longer its as simple as ferric oxide removes phophates faster thus exhaust faster. aluminum oxide removes phophates slower thus last longer while maintaining low phophates. If you have a phosphate "problem" ferric oxide works better. If you already have low phophates and want to maintain it aluminum will last longer. Both last a relatively long time (months) if you already have low phosphate levels.
here's ELOS explanation:
Elos Filtra P FAST is an efficient phosphate remover based on IRON. In contrast to ALUMINUM base FILTRA P, this product is used to quickly remove phosphate both, inorganic as well as organic. It is completely reef safe unlike some competing products adsorbants which may leach phosphates back to the aquarium or may simply precipitate driving more phosphate onto the sand and rock and suspended CaCO3 particulates.
ELOS FiltraP FAST, should be use as a "symptomatic product". It should be used to rapidly reduce the level of phosphate. It is also suggested to use the ALUMINUM BASED formula (ELOS FILTRA P) from the setup in order to keep PO4 constantly under control
 

saltn00b

Active Member
i just started using PURA phoslock, i think it is working decently well. i might need more, however. i have it running in a phos-ban reactor.
 

unleashed

Active Member
rhoaphos works very well I don't know if i spelled that correctly or not .. its also like a dirt type substance but once it removes maximum amount it will hold it does not leach it back into the tank like many others will.. its not inexpensive though a small tub/box cost aprox 40 buck .. I used this religiously when i had reef tanks
 

stanlalee

Active Member
Originally Posted by unleashed
http:///forum/post/2845305
rhoaphos works very well I don't know if i spelled that correctly or not .. its also like a dirt type substance but once it removes maximum amount it will hold it does not leach it back into the tank like many others will.. its not inexpensive though a small tub/box cost aprox 40 buck .. I used this religiously when i had reef tanks
rowaphos?

thats GFO (granulated ferric oxide). the only real difference between the brands are hardness and granule sizes (well rowaphos comes packaged moist). harder GFO supposedly stays together better when tumbled in a reactor and smaller granules are suppose to have better surface area. none of that is probably significant enough to worry about.
 

gmann1139

Active Member
Ok, I just happen to be looking at the background of my work laptop, which is this tank, and was disgusted at how much the cyano has grown since I declared "Mission Accomplished."
ITR isn't working, Purigen isn't working. What's my nuclear option? No lights and flake food for a week?
 

subielover

Active Member
Rowaphos, and water changes. Evaluate your feeding schedule, there is an excess of nutrients in your tank that the bacteria is living off of. Purigen isn't designed to remove phosphates, but rowaphos works great.
These are really just band-aids though, you need to find the root of the problem.
 

unleashed

Active Member
Originally Posted by Stanlalee
http:///forum/post/2845556
rowaphos?

thats GFO (granulated ferric oxide). the only real difference between the brands are hardness and granule sizes (well rowaphos comes packaged moist). harder GFO supposedly stays together better when tumbled in a reactor and smaller granules are suppose to have better surface area. none of that is probably significant enough to worry about.
yes that's it ty for spelling its been a long time since I bought any.. stuff works great
 

small triggers

Active Member
and make sure you are taking out all of your chaeto or other macro algae, because if you are running a phos reducer, they will leach phos back into your system. Though I always have a low level of phos in my tank and havent been able to totally get rid of it.
 

woody189

Member
how are phosphate pads?? i was told to add them to my tank because of my cyano problem. SHould i add the pads or use some chemicals?
sorry to threadjack, but i think it's pretty relevant
 
Originally Posted by Stanlalee
http:///forum/post/2845202
Problem with Phosguard is many soft corals have been proven to react negatively to it (its aluminum oxide media which have been proven to leach and effect certain soft corals. I'd post the link but I cant here. Phosguard specifically was tested).
Can you PM me the link please? I use phosguard, and IMO thought it worked but now I am curious and ready to research a bit more!
 

beaslbob

Well-Known Member
After some time of running it is possible (probable) that the tank has become nitrates starved and cyano thrived.
One thing to do is to kill the lights and let the cyano die off.
Another thing to do is to step up harvesting the macros.
Some even add nitrates but that is highly debated.
my .02
 
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