Gorgonian ?s
- Thread starter ci11337
- Start date
shrimpi
Active Member
I got this one for 8.00 at my LFS its like 7" tall and 5" wide. It was one of the more expensive ones... so yeah, they are cheap here. As long as my goby doesnt try to bury it on one of his 'house cleaning' days
the polyps stay extended and it continues to grow. My tank started in 1/07 so its not super established and this little guy is growing and always open.
I feed Zoplan, Phtoplankton,(once a week) and I squirt mysis or whatever is small enough into the polyps whenever I feed and the polyps suck in the food like mini-anemones. My camera isnt the best but its the best I could do.
I feed Zoplan, Phtoplankton,(once a week) and I squirt mysis or whatever is small enough into the polyps whenever I feed and the polyps suck in the food like mini-anemones. My camera isnt the best but its the best I could do.
shrimpi
Active Member
theres a place called crystal reef on northlake/prosperity farms area in north palm beach. Maryann and Larry are like my 'LFS parents'
They have yellow/orange/purple and sea whips.
I guess the LR is Fl aquacultured, but most people proudly display "FIGI" like OMG THEY HAVE FIGI!>?!!?
Prices range anywhere from 6.95 to 13.00/lb Ive seen. sometimes tanks arent labeled- figi/FL/carribean/tonga
I guess the LR is Fl aquacultured, but most people proudly display "FIGI" like OMG THEY HAVE FIGI!>?!!?
Prices range anywhere from 6.95 to 13.00/lb Ive seen. sometimes tanks arent labeled- figi/FL/carribean/tonga
shrimpi
Active Member
I have no idea what kind of gorg. I have, but its always happy like how it looks in the pic up there. I just fed it mysis and its sucking them right in. My LFS had this one in one of her nano displays and I dont think it was supposed to be for sale exactly but I know her well, so she let me have it for like 8.00
She still has others. I can ask her what the 'name' of it is.
shrimpi
Active Member
I found this info about a purple frilly gorg. But, I think its kinda a basic guide to care for all gorgs.
"Specific Care Information: Relative Care Ease: Average
Purple Frilly Gorgonians are best kept under high output fluorescent lighting. Some may do well under metal halides; however, they must be acclimated to this lighting or it might prove too strong for them. Temperatures should remain between 72 and 78 degrees Fahrenheit (23 to 26 degrees Celsius) with a pH of 8.3 or 8.4. The Specific gravity should fall between 1.023 and 1.025. They do require moderate to strong water currents, and may be placed directly in the path of a power head. Stinging hard corals like Hammer Corals, Bubble Corals, and Elegant Corals could sting a gorgonian, and should not be placed where they can come in contact with one. Colonizing corals like Xenia may overrun a gorgonian. To prevent this, you may wish to place rocks between a Xenia and a gorgonian, so these may be removed or replaced if the Xenia begins to expand over them. If a soft coral sheds its outermost layer on a regular basis, you should place it somewhere where the material will not fall on your gorgonian, as this could injure it. If this should happen, remove the material from the gorgonian using a pipette or some similar instrument. Purple Frilly Gorgonians normally do not require feeding. However, an occasional supplement can be given by stirring of the aquarium substrate. Some gorgonians are susceptible to attack by certain white parasitic nudibranches, which should be removed from your Purple Frilly Gorgonian immediately, lest they prove fatal to it. Generally, it is best to purchase a gorgonian that is already attached to some stable base. Some gorgonians may lose tissue in small areas at the very tips of their branches; and if large areas are dead, specimens should not be purchased. If the tips of the Purple Frilly Gorgonian have lost tissue during the stress of shipping, you should cut the dead areas away. Cut at least 0.25 inches (0.5 centimeters) into the living tissue beyond the dead area, to prevent any infection to the gorgonian. However, ideally, you would wish to purchase a specimen that does not show any receded or dead areas.
Breeding and Propagation: Relative Breeding Ease: Difficult
A variety of methods for propagating Purple Frilly Gorgonians have had varying success rates. Usually, these methods are similar to those used to propagate most corals; cuttings are made from a parent gorgonian, and then attached to a rock or other base using a rubber band or super glue. A very good method involves taking a 2.5 inch (7 centimeter) cutting from a healthy gorgonian. This cutting may be branched, or it may be a straight stem. Using a sharp cutting implement like a razor, you should strip the live tissue from the bottom half inch (1 centimeter) of the cutting. This may be done out of water. You will be left with a stick of skeleton protruding from the bottom of the cutting. Take care not to cut into the skeleton while you strip the tissue. Using a tiny amount of thick or gel-type super glue, you should glue this skeleton end into a rock base. Try not to get any super glue on the Purple Frilly Gorgonian's living tissue (the purple part), and try to attach the cutting so that live tissue is very near to the base, or touching the base. The attached cutting should be placed in saltwater long enough for the glue to cure. Then, the attached cutting may be replaced in your aquarium. Within a few weeks, the Purple Frilly Gorgonian should begin to recover and grow, producing new tissue over the base it has been attached to."
"Specific Care Information: Relative Care Ease: Average
Purple Frilly Gorgonians are best kept under high output fluorescent lighting. Some may do well under metal halides; however, they must be acclimated to this lighting or it might prove too strong for them. Temperatures should remain between 72 and 78 degrees Fahrenheit (23 to 26 degrees Celsius) with a pH of 8.3 or 8.4. The Specific gravity should fall between 1.023 and 1.025. They do require moderate to strong water currents, and may be placed directly in the path of a power head. Stinging hard corals like Hammer Corals, Bubble Corals, and Elegant Corals could sting a gorgonian, and should not be placed where they can come in contact with one. Colonizing corals like Xenia may overrun a gorgonian. To prevent this, you may wish to place rocks between a Xenia and a gorgonian, so these may be removed or replaced if the Xenia begins to expand over them. If a soft coral sheds its outermost layer on a regular basis, you should place it somewhere where the material will not fall on your gorgonian, as this could injure it. If this should happen, remove the material from the gorgonian using a pipette or some similar instrument. Purple Frilly Gorgonians normally do not require feeding. However, an occasional supplement can be given by stirring of the aquarium substrate. Some gorgonians are susceptible to attack by certain white parasitic nudibranches, which should be removed from your Purple Frilly Gorgonian immediately, lest they prove fatal to it. Generally, it is best to purchase a gorgonian that is already attached to some stable base. Some gorgonians may lose tissue in small areas at the very tips of their branches; and if large areas are dead, specimens should not be purchased. If the tips of the Purple Frilly Gorgonian have lost tissue during the stress of shipping, you should cut the dead areas away. Cut at least 0.25 inches (0.5 centimeters) into the living tissue beyond the dead area, to prevent any infection to the gorgonian. However, ideally, you would wish to purchase a specimen that does not show any receded or dead areas.
Breeding and Propagation: Relative Breeding Ease: Difficult
A variety of methods for propagating Purple Frilly Gorgonians have had varying success rates. Usually, these methods are similar to those used to propagate most corals; cuttings are made from a parent gorgonian, and then attached to a rock or other base using a rubber band or super glue. A very good method involves taking a 2.5 inch (7 centimeter) cutting from a healthy gorgonian. This cutting may be branched, or it may be a straight stem. Using a sharp cutting implement like a razor, you should strip the live tissue from the bottom half inch (1 centimeter) of the cutting. This may be done out of water. You will be left with a stick of skeleton protruding from the bottom of the cutting. Take care not to cut into the skeleton while you strip the tissue. Using a tiny amount of thick or gel-type super glue, you should glue this skeleton end into a rock base. Try not to get any super glue on the Purple Frilly Gorgonian's living tissue (the purple part), and try to attach the cutting so that live tissue is very near to the base, or touching the base. The attached cutting should be placed in saltwater long enough for the glue to cure. Then, the attached cutting may be replaced in your aquarium. Within a few weeks, the Purple Frilly Gorgonian should begin to recover and grow, producing new tissue over the base it has been attached to."
jerthunter
Active Member
Originally Posted by ci11337
That's a very nice gorg Shrimpi any idea what kind? I've never seen one like that. The only ones i see often around here are blueberry, yellow branch w/ purple polyp, and red branch w/ yellow polyp. Does anyone have info on these?
Those all sound like filter feeders which means you should feed them daily. They like strong changing current from what I have read.
That's a very nice gorg Shrimpi any idea what kind? I've never seen one like that. The only ones i see often around here are blueberry, yellow branch w/ purple polyp, and red branch w/ yellow polyp. Does anyone have info on these?
Those all sound like filter feeders which means you should feed them daily. They like strong changing current from what I have read.
petjunkie
Active Member
Usually brown polyps mean they are partially photosyntheic (sorry bad spelling) Blueberries and ones with bright polyps have terrible rates of survival in captivty, no one can figure out how to keep long term. There are some that are supposed to be fairly hardy but still need to be feed regularly. Best in a reef tank with lots of filter feedings.
shrimpi
Active Member
I feed mine 'food'- like mysis or chopped up raw whatever else im feeding my tank and they take it. I do this at least once a day with the baster, sometimes twice. I dump the phyto and zoplan in there once a week.. and I make sure to squirt some right in the polyps. so far its worked for me.
I dont know how they would do if you dont feed them daily. Im sure in nature they eat daily.
I dont know how they would do if you dont feed them daily. Im sure in nature they eat daily.