Hair algae problem

[bettachris4]

My tank is about 8 months old and never had any problems before. BUT this is a tank that i move from school to back home so im guessing the water is different and must have higher phosphates.
It is in the beginning process but i am seeing an increase to hair algae and it has even started to move to the sand and filter.
My question is, outside of a cleaner crew, will added a liquid phosphate remover work to kill all of the hair algae? I am using tap water which is the first mistake but other than that my regiment is the same with the lighting, feeding, and chemical additives(purple up) So im assuming the only change was the tap water and this causing the high phosphates. Right?

 

[novahobbies]

what's your lighting for this tank? PC's and T5s start changing spectrum, remember, after a while. If you haven't changed them in the 8 months since you got the tank, it is probably time. And yeah, your tap water is probably pretty high in phosphates.
I feel yer pain; I'm currently dealing with a turf algae issue in my 110g. Ugh.

 

[posiden]

Originally Posted by bettachris4
http:///forum/post/3139321
My tank is about 8 months old and never had any problems before. BUT this is a tank that i move from school to back home so im guessing the water is different and must have higher phosphates.
It is in the beginning process but i am seeing an increase to hair algae and it has even started to move to the sand and filter.
My question is, outside of a cleaner crew, will added a liquid phosphate remover work to kill all of the hair algae? I am using tap water which is the first mistake but other than that my regiment is the same with the lighting, feeding, and chemical additives(purple up) So im assuming the only change was the tap water and this causing the high phosphates. Right?
I also wonder about some die off you might have had increasing the nutrients. Just a thought. But yes you are right, Tap is not good. Maybe buy some distilled water from now on. It would be much better then tap water. That is what I use right now. The RO/DI system I want doesn't allow for a pressurized tank. It will soon.(I hope) I can't stand the waste of the other systems. So I buy distilled.
Originally Posted by novahobbies
http:///forum/post/3139483
what's your lighting for this tank? PC's and T5s start changing spectrum, remember, after a while. If you haven't changed them in the 8 months since you got the tank, it is probably time. And yeah, your tap water is probably pretty high in phosphates.
I feel yer pain; I'm currently dealing with a turf algae issue in my 110g. Ugh.

You could send me the turff. I just changed up my screen on my scrubber and I think I might have lost it. I am hoping it pops up through the new layers I added. But as you know it grows very short in stature.

 

[bettachris4]

The lights are somewhat new but i will read up about this.
What would be the solution? not a 100% water change with distilled water right?
I was looking at bluelife liquid phosphate remover. Would this product lower my phosphates and in turn kill the hair algae, or will i still need a hair algae remover?

 

[jetskiking]

Originally Posted by bettachris4
http:///forum/post/3140613
The lights are somewhat new but i will read up about this.
What would be the solution? not a 100% water change with distilled water right?
I was looking at bluelife liquid phosphate remover. Would this product lower my phosphates and in turn kill the hair algae, or will i still need a hair algae remover?
You need to start using distilled or RODI water for changes. Do not do 100% water change. Do them in small incriments. I would try this before adding chemicals.

 

[snakeblitz33]

I wouldn't use a liquid remover at all. Liquid nitrate and phosphate removers cause the pH to swing too much because it is trying to "fix" the molecules by using the available oxygen in your tank.
Use a more natural approach: water changes, pure top off water, manual removal, decrease photoperiod, decrease food volume, and increase water flow on bottom of the tank.
After a few weeks, you should notice a tremendous difference.

 

[bettachris4]

alright sounds good. The light is usually on for about 10-12 hours per day and i am feeding ORA GLO which im guessing is packed with nutrients.
Regular water changes with distilled water should help.

 

[bettachris4]

What should i order for a CUC?
Right now i have 1 hermit crab and 1 peppermint shrimp for this 10 gallon.

 

[islandkoa]

I recommend a refugium or atleast some macroalgae.
I currently have a 20 gallon tank that I had quickly set up for a clown fish who was getting attacked in its previous aquarium. Despite having only a H.O.T Magnum biowheel, a couple of power heads, and some live rock, this tank has the best specs out of my 3 tanks (110 and 55 gal). I just threw some macroalgae (Chaeto) into it and I have no signs of hair algae plus my coraline is growing best in it. I actually trimmed some of the macro algae and threw it into my 110 and my back wall of hair algae has disappeared as well as on the live rock. I tried phosphate sponges and some algae removal liquid and those didn't work. My phosphate levels in my 110 used to be high. I haven't tested the level since putting the macro algae into it.
I will connect a refugium to the 110 eventually.