halide placement question..
- Thread starter rs1831
- Start date
flower
Well-Known Member
Actually I did this. I raised my canopy an 2 extra inches to add up to about 5 1/2 inches off the water surface (instructions say 5). I did this by (having my nephew) putting a two inch block over each contact point on the canopy.
I removed the hinged hood, so it is all open. Where the hinged hood used to be I placed the lights. I used 1 inch blocks on the ends where the light housing goes to support it. I just dropped the housing down from the top, it won’t go past the two blocks. About 1/2 inch of wood on each side touches the housing.
I bought a retrofit MH 2x175 with 2 96W blue actinics. I also bought 2 icecap fans directed, crossways. One on one corner pulling cooler air in, and one on the kitty corner pulling warm air out. (I may buy two more fans and make an X out of the flow. Depends on temp rising during the summer.) I used the two wood blocks for the lights housing to rest on and the rest is untouched and open.
I also placed tempered glass, (as instructions directed) between the lights and water. I used eggcrate on the open areas to safeguard my fish from jumping, and allow gas exchange.
I am watching very closely to see if the wood blocks get hot. My lights are only one for 2 hours yesterday and 3 today. So it is a little early to tell.
I will keep you posted as to how things work out. So far my temps have only climbed 2 degrees. Which I understand is normal for MH lighting. My temp stays at 80 at night because of my heaters, that’s where I have them set. So 2 degrees shouldn't do too much harm.
What I like about my solution is that I have my canopy for looks, and the MH lighting doesn't hurt my eyes when I look at the tank when I am sitting down, because the bare bulb is not showing at all. No sunglasses needed, and no spots in my eyes.
I can now have any kind of coral I want! As soon as I can get some more money... That should give the tank plenty of time to adjust to the new lighting.
I removed the hinged hood, so it is all open. Where the hinged hood used to be I placed the lights. I used 1 inch blocks on the ends where the light housing goes to support it. I just dropped the housing down from the top, it won’t go past the two blocks. About 1/2 inch of wood on each side touches the housing.
I bought a retrofit MH 2x175 with 2 96W blue actinics. I also bought 2 icecap fans directed, crossways. One on one corner pulling cooler air in, and one on the kitty corner pulling warm air out. (I may buy two more fans and make an X out of the flow. Depends on temp rising during the summer.) I used the two wood blocks for the lights housing to rest on and the rest is untouched and open.
I also placed tempered glass, (as instructions directed) between the lights and water. I used eggcrate on the open areas to safeguard my fish from jumping, and allow gas exchange.
I am watching very closely to see if the wood blocks get hot. My lights are only one for 2 hours yesterday and 3 today. So it is a little early to tell.
I will keep you posted as to how things work out. So far my temps have only climbed 2 degrees. Which I understand is normal for MH lighting. My temp stays at 80 at night because of my heaters, that’s where I have them set. So 2 degrees shouldn't do too much harm.
What I like about my solution is that I have my canopy for looks, and the MH lighting doesn't hurt my eyes when I look at the tank when I am sitting down, because the bare bulb is not showing at all. No sunglasses needed, and no spots in my eyes.
I can now have any kind of coral I want! As soon as I can get some more money... That should give the tank plenty of time to adjust to the new lighting.
sleazalino
Member
hold mh is about 3 inches from the water,its in a canopy,its a outer orbit all in one unit should i be worried
flower
Well-Known Member
My original post:
Actually I did this. I raised my canopy an 2 extra inches to add up to about 5 1/2 inches off the water surface (instructions say 5). I did this by (having my nephew) putting a two inch block over each contact point on the canopy.
I removed the hinged hood, so it is all open. Where the hinged hood used to be I placed the lights. I used 1 inch blocks on the ends where the light housing goes to support it. I just dropped the housing down from the top, it won’t go past the two blocks. About 1/2 inch of wood on each side touches the housing.
I bought a retrofit MH 2x175 with 2 96W blue actinics. I also bought 2 icecap fans directed, crossways. One on one corner pulling cooler air in, and one on the kitty corner pulling warm air out. (I may buy two more fans and make an X out of the flow. Depends on temp rising during the summer.) I used the two wood blocks for the lights housing to rest on and the rest is untouched and open.
I also placed tempered glass, (as instructions directed) between the lights and water. I used eggcrate on the open areas to safeguard my fish from jumping, and allow gas exchange.
I am watching very closely to see if the wood blocks get hot. My lights are only one for 2 hours yesterday and 3 today. So it is a little early to tell.
I will keep you posted as to how things work out. So far my temps have only climbed 2 degrees. Which I understand is normal for MH lighting. My temp stays at 80 at night because of my heaters, that’s where I have them set. So 2 degrees shouldn't do too much harm.
UPDATE:
I had my MH lights on for 4 hours and the top is not hot at all, with the way I did things. My temp was 80 and stays right there, so the fans work great.
The wood is not hot where it touches the housing. So the retrofit placed inside the canopy is fine.
Actually I did this. I raised my canopy an 2 extra inches to add up to about 5 1/2 inches off the water surface (instructions say 5). I did this by (having my nephew) putting a two inch block over each contact point on the canopy.
I removed the hinged hood, so it is all open. Where the hinged hood used to be I placed the lights. I used 1 inch blocks on the ends where the light housing goes to support it. I just dropped the housing down from the top, it won’t go past the two blocks. About 1/2 inch of wood on each side touches the housing.
I bought a retrofit MH 2x175 with 2 96W blue actinics. I also bought 2 icecap fans directed, crossways. One on one corner pulling cooler air in, and one on the kitty corner pulling warm air out. (I may buy two more fans and make an X out of the flow. Depends on temp rising during the summer.) I used the two wood blocks for the lights housing to rest on and the rest is untouched and open.
I also placed tempered glass, (as instructions directed) between the lights and water. I used eggcrate on the open areas to safeguard my fish from jumping, and allow gas exchange.
I am watching very closely to see if the wood blocks get hot. My lights are only one for 2 hours yesterday and 3 today. So it is a little early to tell.
I will keep you posted as to how things work out. So far my temps have only climbed 2 degrees. Which I understand is normal for MH lighting. My temp stays at 80 at night because of my heaters, that’s where I have them set. So 2 degrees shouldn't do too much harm.
UPDATE:
I had my MH lights on for 4 hours and the top is not hot at all, with the way I did things. My temp was 80 and stays right there, so the fans work great.
The wood is not hot where it touches the housing. So the retrofit placed inside the canopy is fine.
naclh2o nut
Member
Originally Posted by sleazalino
http:///forum/post/2983371
hold mh is about 3 inches from the water,its in a canopy,its a outer orbit all in one unit should i be worried
If you mean in the canopy. No open air, then I would not do that. The temp of the tank is one thing but the lights need air to cool also.
You will go through the bulbs and sockets very fast this way. If not heat you canopy up. Fire, melt?
i believe flower has the top of herlights exposed to room air.
http:///forum/post/2983371
hold mh is about 3 inches from the water,its in a canopy,its a outer orbit all in one unit should i be worried
If you mean in the canopy. No open air, then I would not do that. The temp of the tank is one thing but the lights need air to cool also.
i believe flower has the top of herlights exposed to room air.
sleazalino
Member
my back is opened but if thats the case i gotta throw two fans in then i guess thanks for the feed back