Hard PVC Plumbing

adam13

Member
Wat is safe to use to glue PVC for use in a reef tank? IF no glue is what can be used to ensure it stays watertight?
Tried searchihng and cant find anything. Thanks!
 

calbert0

Member
use the pvc cement that they have in the plumbing section of any hardware store.
Just make sure it says its safe for drinking (potable) water. Let it dry twice as long as is recommended on the bottle and give it a rinse with some tap water and you will be golden.
 

scsinet

Active Member
Any of the Oatey pipe cement sold at Lowes or Home depot is perfectly safe to use as long as you allow it to dry. I'm not sure if it specifically says it's safe for potable water on the can, but it is.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by Adam13
http:///forum/post/3184305
Wat is safe to use to glue PVC for use in a reef tank? IF no glue is what can be used to ensure it stays watertight?
Tried searchihng and cant find anything. Thanks!

Never mind I though you wanted to glue coral.
 

b2bwest

Member
I work for a large water treatment equipment company and have glued a lot of pipe. The Oatey stuff is safe - chances are the water you are drinking has run through some piping that has the Oatey primer and glue in it.
Just like others stated, make sure you allow it to cure/dry.
Make sure you apply primer and glue to both the pipe and the connector and give it a little twist as you push them together. Also, hold it for a few seconds as it has a tendency to push out. Using these techniques will ensure you don't get any leaks.
Good luck!
 
L

lilredwuck

Guest
Which one would be better? Threaded vs. slip? Pros and Cons on both is the answer I will get, but hey.......
Well, I just thought of it, but glued would be a more "permanent" thing.
 

kspops

Member
Originally Posted by lilredwuck
http:///forum/post/3186352
Which one would be better? Threaded vs. slip? Pros and Cons on both is the answer I will get, but hey.......
Well, I just thought of it, but glued would be a more "permanent" thing.
The Threaded will help if you need to upgrade later (or replace), and as you noted, the glued is more permanent. I am trying to get a semi permanent install for my 180G. I am planning to use short sections of Vinyl hose for any movement/settling. The rest will be plumbed PVC.
 
B

bwiele

Guest
Can anyone comment on the +/- of using CPVC as opposed to PVC? I assume no meaningful difference. Separately, I'm very likely to use a longish run (50-60 feet) of PEX tubing to get to a waste line that I have access to. Any warnings?
 

scsinet

Active Member
Originally Posted by bwiele
http:///forum/post/3186410
Can anyone comment on the +/- of using CPVC as opposed to PVC? I assume no meaningful difference. Separately, I'm very likely to use a longish run (50-60 feet) of PEX tubing to get to a waste line that I have access to. Any warnings?
PEX is fine for aquarium use provided you do not use the brass fittings.
CPVC's advantage over PVC is that it is rated for use with hot water. There is no reason to invest in it for aquarium use. Plus, aquarium fittings, such as bulkheads, are sized for PVC, not CPVC which has a different outside diameter than PVC for a given pipe size. Save yourself the trouble and use PVC.
 

scsinet

Active Member
Originally Posted by lilredwuck
http:///forum/post/3186352
Which one would be better? Threaded vs. slip? Pros and Cons on both is the answer I will get, but hey.......
Well, I just thought of it, but glued would be a more "permanent" thing.
My general rule of thumb is that I use threaded fittings for valves and unions larger than 1/2", and for all bulkheads. Everything else I use slip.
This way the aforementioned items (which are usually expensive) can be re-used later. I don't bother saving elbows, couplings, tees, etc, I buy all slip for that stuff. Occasionally I don't have enough room to accomodate a threaded union or valve plus the two male fittings to thread into it on each side, so I have to use slip, but that's the exception.
Threaded fittings are a tad more expensive and have more chances of leaking, though since I switched from tape to RectorSeal I have never had a threaded fitting leak. Slip is very permanent, but cheaper. But for someone like me who is constantly messing around with plumbing will find threaded much easier for re-engineering.
 
B

bwiele

Guest
Originally Posted by SCSInet
http:///forum/post/3186584
My general rule of thumb is that I use threaded fittings for valves and unions larger than 1/2", and for all bulkheads. Everything else I use slip.
This way the aforementioned items (which are usually expensive) can be re-used later. I don't bother saving elbows, couplings, tees, etc, I buy all slip for that stuff. Occasionally I don't have enough room to accomodate a threaded union or valve plus the two male fittings to thread into it on each side, so I have to use slip, but that's the exception.
Threaded fittings are a tad more expensive and have more chances of leaking, though since I switched from tape to RectorSeal I have never had a threaded fitting leak. Slip is very permanent, but cheaper. But for someone like me who is constantly messing around with plumbing will find threaded much easier for re-engineering.
Thanks SCSI for the Pex response. Regarding the RectorSeal products, which product do you use to help seal the threaded fittings? And is that stuff commonly available? I'm not familiar with it. Many thanks.
 

scsinet

Active Member
I don't have it in front of me right now, but if I remember correctly, it's a PTFE sealant. It's white in color and very thick. It works great for PVC fittings. You can get it at Home Depot or Lowes, right where the other stuff is.
Lots of folks will also use a combination of tape and sealant, but I've found that a nice liberal coating works fine in the low pressures of aquarium plumbing without tape.
I use RectorSeal #5 for copper plumbing that handles municipal water pressure. I haven't seen this stuff at Lowe's, but HD carries it.
 
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