Most hobbyists know this genus only for the Harlequin Tuskfish, Choerodon (formerly Lienardella) fasciata (2). There are several other non-used "Tuskfish" members of the genus, but none match the beauty and small size of the Harlequin. This expensive, bold-colored but peaceful wrasse mainly comes out of the Philippines and Australia. The "Land Down Under’s" are vastly superior in hardiness and beauty (1’s).
Selection: General to Specific
Most well-cared for specimens that have been in captivity for a few weeks prove quite hardy, often living for years. There are, however some cardinal guidelines for choosing amongst those available.
1) Country of Origin: Choerodon from Australian sources are best (these have bluish bordered red stripes and teeth) with a few other Indo-Pacific localities vying in consistent high-quality. Decidedly inferior are specimens hailing from the Philippines and Indonesia. Whether these are simply starved, otherwise mishandled or outright cyanided, the fact is on average they are relatively much shorter-lived; weeks instead of years. Are these fish better because they're cheaper?
2) On a related note, Time In Captivity may be your best indication of "Origin" as dealers frequently have poor or misleading information concerning where their livestock was collected. Do wait a good two weeks before making a purchase of a new specimen; OR, if you're a dealer, secure a guarantee as to origin COUPLED with a warrantee.
New arrivals are prone to hide out in corners, and die not so mysteriously from continuing shock and lack of food. Wait.
3) Feeding: Is it? I have collected these fish in what I consider the most appropriate, best available technology; with baited barbless hook and line while snorkeling over the reef. The trauma of capture, hole in the mouth, and holding and transport without cover are of obvious consequence. Not surprisingly, new specimens are often on feeding strikes on arrival. Yours should be taking foods you can and intend to feed when you pick it up.
4) On Netting: Notably, wrasses possess a simpler type of scalature termed cycloid; as opposed to the more common interdigitating ctenoid ("teen-oyd"; from the Greek meaning "comb") scales of most advanced bony fishes. The practical implication here is the physical damage possible by rough handling of these fishes. Due to their vigorous dashing, often launching themselves Poseidon missile-like when pursued, you are encouraged to use two nets, one to direct the intended specimen, the other (deep pocketed, of soft material) to lift it from the tank.
Take care to immediately place the specimen in a TALL double-bag with adequate water, and if available, oxygenate it for calming, anesthetic effect; seal and place in a sealed (dark) Styrofoam box. A bunch of wrasses today will be lost due to jumping, wracking themselves hard against specimen containers, or subsequent secondary infection from scraping consequent to improper moving protocol. Don't contribute.
Also while we're on the issue of netting, WATCH YOUR HANDS when netting wrasses, especially large specimens. They do bite, and how. If you want to support the animal while in the net, place a wet towel between your hand and the net.
