help guys questions bout t5

jay02483

Member
i have a current usa 4x39w t5ho fixture. 2 10k and 2 460mm actinics. over a 29gal and i wanna upgrade 2 a 46gal. will this lighting suffice for sps and clams? should i get different bulbs? give me sum help here! PLEASE
 

culp

Active Member
Current brand of t5 is pretty much on the lower end of t5 fixtures. plus they're bulbs are junk. does your fixture have reflectors for each lamp or one big one?
 

d-man

Member
Originally Posted by Culp
http:///forum/post/3020699
Current brand of t5 is pretty much on the lower end of t5 fixtures. plus they're bulbs are junk. does your fixture have reflectors for each lamp or one big one?
I have that same light over my 29 (are you shure it is 39w not 24?) mine are 24 and I have keept both under my light with no prob my sps's are growing sooo fast they are very fun, Imho t5's are great lights if you dont need light blasting at the bottem of your tank(witch I have problems with anyway) .
I am quite happy with my current what do you run and why?
 

fanker

Active Member
u will be able to keep sps on the top but clams like sand bed so no. add a couple more bulbs and u should be able to keep anything
 

culp

Active Member
Originally Posted by d-man
http:///forum/post/3029999
I have that same light over my 29 (are you shure it is 39w not 24?) mine are 24 and I have keept both under my light with no prob my sps's are growing sooo fast they are very fun, Imho t5's are great lights if you dont need light blasting at the bottem of your tank(witch I have problems with anyway) .
I am quite happy with my current what do you run and why?
i no longer have the current USA fixture. i sold it and bought a retrofit kit from r**f geek. i would not ever run another fixture with out a Ice Cap 660 ballast.
 

d-man

Member
Originally Posted by Culp
http:///forum/post/3032268
i no longer have the current USA fixture. i sold it and bought a retrofit kit from r**f geek. i would not ever run another fixture with out a Ice Cap 660 ballast.
whats so good about a Ice cap 660? It's the lights anyway I'm going to put a mix of ati's in my current fixture and should get the color/power for anything I wan't
 

fanker

Active Member
Originally Posted by d-man
http:///forum/post/3034927
whats so good about a Ice cap 660? It's the lights anyway I'm going to put a mix of ati's in my current fixture and should get the color/power for anything I wan't
ice cap is not as great as he talks about i just got new solar flare. its a aquatinics fixture but everything is ice cap so instead of being a 6x54w fixture its a 6x85w fixture it has the icecap 660 and 430 and ill tell u what i have seen nicer. im actually really dissapointed in it i would go tek or ati if i ever buy another fixture
 

wangotango

Active Member
Originally Posted by fanker
http:///forum/post/3035037
ice cap is not as great as he talks about i just got new solar flare. its a aquatinics fixture but everything is ice cap so instead of being a 6x54w fixture its a 6x85w fixture it has the icecap 660 and 430 and ill tell u what i have seen nicer. im actually really dissapointed in it i would go tek or ati if i ever buy another fixture
What is disappointing about it? Both Aquactinics and Icecap make some of the highest quality stuff out there. The Solarflare also tested comparably with the 6 and 8-bulb ATI Powermodule. A TEK would be a huge downgrade.
-Justin
 

wattsupdoc

Active Member
The ice cap ballast overdrives the lamps. Putting out more light than standard HO ballasts. Lamp life though is reduced. You can use fewer lamps with the icecap, but need to replace sooner. Sefinetly the Tek would be a downgrade from the Ice cap or Aquatinics.
 

d-man

Member
ok this is funny, think about what you guys are saying upgrade down grade is YOUR OPINION if you want to make a real point about these difference it might help to talk in nm, watts,life expectancy and cost and has anyone looked into rewiring a cheeper ballast my bro is reading about how to get all the output you want with a cheeper ballast, I myself like to put as much $$ in the tank rather than outside of it as posable
 

wattsupdoc

Active Member
Originally Posted by d-man
http:///forum/post/3035835
ok this is funny, think about what you guys are saying upgrade down grade is YOUR OPINION if you want to make a real point about these difference it might help to talk in nm, watts,life expectancy and cost and has anyone looked into rewiring a cheeper ballast my bro is reading about how to get all the output you want with a cheeper ballast, I myself like to put as much $$ in the tank rather than outside of it as posable

There is more to a light fixture than just the ballast. Modifying the ballast is not something I would recommend. If you put more power through the lamp it will cost you more to operate. So modifying a ballast to do this would only save you a few dollars up front. If that even, if ballast life is shortened as a result of the mod. Who knows.
Also, if your going to try to contradict someones post, it might be helpful to know what your talking about. Bulb color(NM) has nothing to do with the fixture. Additionally if you want to know how well a fixture produces usable stuff, you want to refer to PAR, I'll let you figure that one out on your own. Going on the cheap is not always the solution. While it may suffice, and in some cases even be the better solution. Because something is cheaper to run , purchase or resupply, doesn't always make it the better choice.
Point in case. A KIA is a much cheaper vehicle. Depending on model gas mileage is usually pretty good. Repairs should be pretty cheap.

A Rolls Royce though, is a totally different vehicle.
Now I'm not comparing the two lights to these vehicles im just trying to get a point across.
The tek is a fine light, but the Aquatinic is .....finer...
 

fanker

Active Member
Originally Posted by WangoTango
http:///forum/post/3035808
What is disappointing about it? Both Aquactinics and Icecap make some of the highest quality stuff out there. The Solarflare also tested comparably with the 6 and 8-bulb ATI Powermodule. A TEK would be a huge downgrade.
-Justin
its a great light just not as bright as everyone makes it out to be. and i wish i g=did have 8 bulbs rather than 6. its hard to get a good color combo. it is nice though cause the moonlights and the fans. that helps alot. the fixture was too expensive for me to want to sell and get tek but if a cheap ati was to come around i would switch in a heartbeat
 

d-man

Member
Originally Posted by wattsupdoc
http:///forum/post/3035875
There is more to a light fixture than just the ballast. Modifying the ballast is not something I would recommend. If you put more power through the lamp it will cost you more to operate. So modifying a ballast to do this would only save you a few dollars up front. If that even, if ballast life is shortened as a result of the mod. Who knows.
Also, if your going to try to contradict someones post, it might be helpful to know what your talking about. Bulb color(NM) has nothing to do with the fixture. Additionally if you want to know how well a fixture produces usable stuff, you want to refer to PAR, I'll let you figure that one out on your own. Going on the cheap is not always the solution. While it may suffice, and in some cases even be the better solution. Because something is cheaper to run , purchase or resupply, doesn't always make it the better choice.
Point in case. A KIA is a much cheaper vehicle. Depending on model gas mileage is usually pretty good. Repairs should be pretty cheap.

A Rolls Royce though, is a totally different vehicle.
Now I'm not comparing the two lights to these vehicles im just trying to get a point across.
The tek is a fine light, but the Aquatinic is .....finer...

they both drive and I'll race you I take the kia (some demo durby??
)my point is that no one is giving any # so par or mn it dose not matter and it's the relation of watts to what ever you want to use to read power out put that we are talking about and just because something cost more to run,purchase or resupply dosen't always make it the better choise.
 

dankbardy31

Member
Hey guys,
I'm new to the hobby and bought a used 60g setup that I am using for a FOWLR setup. It came with an Odyssea 54w x 2 T5 setup that I know is a cheap fixture. Question is for fish and live rock does it matter which new bulbs I put in to replace the old ones?
Thanks
 

d-man

Member
Originally Posted by dankbardy31
http:///forum/post/3035893
Hey guys,
I'm new to the hobby and bought a used 60g setup that I am using for a FOWLR setup. It came with an Odyssea 54w x 2 T5 setup that I know is a cheap fixture. Question is for fish and live rock does it matter which new bulbs I put in to replace the old ones?
Thanks
I am running odyssea on my new tank and have not had any probs (but what do I know) I am going to change some out for better color, I have a current on my other tank and have had what I want in that tank the best advice that I have got for anyone is that you need to think about what you what and where you want to put it then pick a light that is right for what your doing (good luck), what I have done (I'm only 1 1/2 yrs. in) is work with what I know and can have until I find something I want and cant keep and I have found that for me there are a lot of other things that if done right (like water-changes and proper placement) have helped me keep things that people say I should have more watts or better lights for.
I'm probably going to get it for saying this but I have cycled a tank to the point of keeping some corals and fish with a agriculture light that was not for fish-tanks at all and the only difference that I could see was the tank looked washed out ya we did not put anything that was not "hearty" in.
but imho it might be a little low on the watts if you want to put corals in latter
 
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