Help needed on design

stumpdog

Member
Here is a simple design I just did up. Does it look okay. Do I want the fuge to flow directly back to the tank? If not how could I get the water from the fuge back into the sump? (Drilling isn't an option.) Please critique this. Thanks.
Jeremy
 

stumpdog

Member
I have 40L and 12W of space to work with. The 20 gallon is only 24L and 12W so it should fit. Plus there is enough room for the 10 gallon.
If I did go with Rubbermade would I still put partitions in it? What would I use for the partitions and to hold them in place?
Thanks-
Jeremy
 

stumpdog

Member

Originally posted by DvSKiN
if you went rubber made, I wouldnt put partitions. I would actually use like smaller rubber made containers inside the bigger ones. Just submerse the whole thing in the water, and use that to put the sump in, as far as baffles for a fuge, I would just do 2 rubbermaid containers, and have one drilled, with bulkheads for overflows into the main sump one.
DVS

Can you explain that a little more? Thanks and sorry.
 

jumpfrog

Active Member
Try doing a search on broomer5's sump design. That's kinda what DVS is referring to. Or broomer if you're around post your famous pics. Great design and can be modified for any size system.
 

hondo

Member
I used 2 10g tanks (side by side) for a fuge and sump under my 50g. I put the overflow directly into the fuge and used a syphon tube between the fuge tank and sump tank to get the water to the sump.
It basically acts just like my life reef overflow in that the syphon only delivers the same amount of water to the sump as the overflow is delivering to the refugium. I then put my skimmer and return pump in the sump side. Only down side is your flow rate through the sump is what ever your return pump is (mine is a mag9 return pump). Overall the whole thing is controlled by the return pump flow rate as that is what will come through your overflow into the refugium and that same rate will go through your syphon to your sump. If your return pump stops then no water comes through your overflow and no water goes through your syphon, but the syphon also does not break since the water level does not drop.
I asked about the higher flow rate effecting the fuge on this site and several sharks told me that in these small closed systems having a slow rate through the fuge is not important since your sending the water through the fuge over and over again every hour anyway.
works well for me and I didn't have to drill anything and the plumbing is quite a bit simpler
 

stumpdog

Member
How does this look? Instead of doing tanks I could use Rubbermade containers as suggested earlier. I would split the overflow between the fuge and sump. The fuge would then empty into the sump on the return pump side. What do you think? Do I have enough baffles? Do I even need them? Thanks for everything. Only 3 weeks until the move.
Jeremy
 

tony detroit

Active Member
DVS made the call earlier. You will never match up the valve with flow rate. You are much better off having a crossover pipe from refugium to sump or whichever way you decide to make it, to make sure that the one tank does not overflow. I know this because I tried doing something similiar.
Wet salty carpet is no fun at all
DO NOT ask me how I know that.........
 
Top