HOB refugium

cufishfan

Member
I recently set up a 55g with CC, a UGF + 2 PH, and Emperor 400 HOB filter. Having done more research AFTER
setting it up, I'm hearing a lot about CC and UGFs causing high nitrates (not a problem now, but I don't want it to get there). Thought about a sump/refugium, but really don't have the space under the tank (only about 10-11" deep). Saw some deals on HOB refugiums (like Aquafuge) and wanted some opinions.
Will it help me at all/ is it worth the money? What size is necessary for 55g? My tank is still pretty new, doesn't have a huge bioload and I'm planning to beef up my CUC this weekend.
Thanks!
 

cufishfan

Member
I just found a deal for a used Med size CPR AquaFuge with light, chaeto and some seeded sand for $100. Is this a good deal/smart buy?
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
a cheaper alternative is an aquaclear 300 power filter for a hang on back fuge.
You should ditch the crushed coral and undergravel filter before adding any more livestock. But, as long as you keep it clean, you shouldn't have any problems. (just gravel siphon it once a week)
This is the aquaclear:
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Additional info:
Just add a clip on light from wal-mart ($7) and some macroalgae and you are good to go. Chaetomorpha or caulerpa is the best in this type of fuge.
 

cufishfan

Member
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33
http:///forum/post/2941837
a cheaper alternative is an aquaclear 300 power filter for a hang on back fuge.
Even if I already have a HOB filter (Emperor 400 w/ biowheels)? And would the Aquafuge be a bad idea?
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33

http:///forum/post/2941837
You should ditch the crushed coral and undergravel filter before adding any more livestock. But, as long as you keep it clean, you shouldn't have any problems. (just gravel siphon it once a week)
I have trouble really gravel vacuuming because of LR, and I've noticed my pH drops occasionally after I've brought it up with a pH buffer. Is the CC to blame? How deep of a bed should I have if I switch?
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
ok, for me to help you, you have to do something for me.
1. Get rid of the crushed coral and undergravel filter.
2. Get rid of your glass tops and replace them with egg crate
3. Add a powerhead to your tank to increase flow and gas exchange.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
btw, the aquaclear filter is just like a hang on back refugium, put your macroalgae in and add a light. BAM you've got it.
Also, you might want to think about removing the biowheels.
 

cufishfan

Member
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33
http:///forum/post/2942012
2. Get rid of your glass tops and replace them with egg crate
What's wrong with glass tops?

How deep of a sandbed should I have? I'm not ready to turn this into a reef tank, I want to have a little more experience and money so I can do it properly. So this will just be FOWLR.
I thought the biowheels were a good thing??

I'm willing to make some changes, because I want the best tank I can have, but I want to make sure I'm 100% sold on all major changes (like switching CC to LS). I don't want to regret any of the changes I make (which I'm sure you understand).
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
search for crushed coral on the forums. Basically, it traps waste, detritus, leftover food etc. and it leaches back into the water. Causes cyanobacteria, hair algae, and algae problems. High Nitrates and Phosphates.
Glass tops prevent gas exchanges from occuring which lowers your pH and alkalinity. By taking off the glass tops and adding water flow, you will naturally buffer your pH.
pH buffers DO NOT fix pH.
 

cufishfan

Member
I'm willing to admit that the CC was a mistake (got it because I got the UGF free with the tank, and knew I couldn't have sand with an UGF). Wish I'd done all this research before
.
So I will switch to LS.
More questions (and I *really* appreciate your patience with me). I'm moving in about 5 months and I know the move will be difficult no matter what. Should I make the switch then, when everything will have to be taken out of the tank anyways? Or would it be better to do now and then deal with the move separately?
If I get rid of the glass and put egg crate down instead (which I guess I can get from Home Depot or something?), can I set my lights on top of it? They're 2 18" Power-Glo 15W fluorescents.
And what kind of PH would I want? I have 2 Hagen 201s set up with the UGF, but they don't seem to create much flow and I'd be willing to upgrade that too.
Would I still keep my Emperor 400, even with a HOB refugium? And even if I take off the biowheels?
Here's a picture of the tank now, just for reference (the more I look at it in pictures, more I think the background and white center piece are gonna have to go
)
 

scrombus2

Member
If you're moving in 5 months anyway, wait until then to make the changeover. Accumulate some more information and plan what you're gonna do.
What people were eluding to about the Aquaclear is that you can DIY a decent refugium for less than 50 bucks. With the two powerheads you already have, plus the flow from a 'fuge, and you should also consider a HOB skimmer, you'll have good flow.
Then there's the lighting upgrade.....and then.....and then.....
 

gmann1139

Active Member
1. HOB fuges are a ripoff right now. If you can get one used and cheap, great, if not, DIY.
2. Don't worry about pH so much. Worry about alkalinity, that's the horse, pH is the cart. Low pH is usually a result of something else being amiss.
3. UGFs... I didn't realize they made them anymore. I wouldn't wait to switch, its going to be fairly disruptive to your tank.
4. Glass top - If its a FO or FOWLR, I would leave it on. Egg crate is nice, but a lot of people run fine with glass. Just make sure not to seal it completely, as Snake said, gas exchange is necessary.
 

cufishfan

Member
Originally Posted by scrombus2
http:///forum/post/2943973
Then there's the lighting upgrade.....and then.....and then.....

Exactly!! I'm trying to hold myself back now. I want my next tank to be a reef tank, and I want to do it all right the first time, so I'm waiting until I know more/have more experience/more money. It's so hard though!!!!

Originally Posted by gmann1139

http:///forum/post/2944203
1. HOB fuges are a ripoff right now. If you can get one used and cheap, great, if not, DIY.
I actually got a good deal on an Aquafuge ( I talked the guy down from his initial offer, plus he's giving me a light, chaeto, seeded sand and a few inverts)
I'm leaning towards switching from CC to sand in mid-late March (when it's a little warmer and I can clean out the tank outside and paint my stand in the garage without getting frostbite!) That way it's one less thing to stress me out when I'm trying to move.
Also, I'm thinking I may have messed with the pH test somehow, because when I tested today
pH = 8.2
nitrItes= 0
nitrAtes= 0
SG = 1.022
 

gmann1139

Active Member
Originally Posted by CUfishfan
http:///forum/post/2944266
Exactly!! I'm trying to hold myself back now. I want my next tank to be a reef tank, and I want to do it all right the first time, so I'm waiting until I know more/have more experience/more money. It's so hard though!!!!

I actually got a good deal on an Aquafuge ( I talked the guy down from his initial offer, plus he's giving me a light, chaeto, seeded sand and a few inverts)
I'm leaning towards switching from CC to sand in mid-late March (when it's a little warmer and I can clean out the tank outside and paint my stand in the garage without getting frostbite!) That way it's one less thing to stress me out when I'm trying to move.
Also, I'm thinking I may have messed with the pH test somehow, because when I tested today
pH = 8.2
nitrItes= 0
nitrAtes= 0
SG = 1.022

What pH test are you using?
THe one I use (Hagen) requires daylight to read it.
 

maryg

Member
Originally Posted by CUfishfan
http:///forum/post/2944266
Exactly!! I'm trying to hold myself back now. I want my next tank to be a reef tank, and I want to do it all right the first time, so I'm waiting until I know more/have more experience/more money. It's so hard though!!!!

I actually got a good deal on an Aquafuge ( I talked the guy down from his initial offer, plus he's giving me a light, chaeto, seeded sand and a few inverts)
I'm leaning towards switching from CC to sand in mid-late March (when it's a little warmer and I can clean out the tank outside and paint my stand in the garage without getting frostbite!) That way it's one less thing to stress me out when I'm trying to move.
Also, I'm thinking I may have messed with the pH test somehow, because when I tested today
pH = 8.2
nitrItes= 0
nitrAtes= 0
SG = 1.022

The Aquafuge is an "ok" deal. They retail new from 120-150 depending on the size you are getting. I got a used HOB refugium for my 55. Before that I used a HOB filter that I converted plus a cheapo under cabinet light fixture. It really worked and was dirt cheap. I used a cup of sand from my tank, some rubble, and some macroalgae. There were a ton of pods in there when I put all that stuff in my new fuge. Also keep in mind that the new fuge might be bigger and heavier. I had my hubbie build a stand to hold it up. When it is full of water, sand, rubble, and chaeto it gets real heavy and I didn't want it stressing the back wall of my tank. It weighed about 20 lbs. It still looks like a HOB but it is sitting on a 2x4 stand and you cant see it with the background.
 

cufishfan

Member
Originally Posted by gmann1139
http:///forum/post/2944691
What pH test are you using?
API. But I used my finger to cover the top of the vial (which, when I read the directions, is specifically mentioned as a cause for unreliable test results).

Mary- thanks for the tips. I think I'll look into making a stand for it too. (I might contact you for pictures if I can't figure out how to do it on my own) And I'm getting the Aquafuge plus extras for about 1/2 price, so I'm pretty happy about the deal.
Now I just need to learn patience. It'll probably the hardest part of this whole process!
 

gatorzone19

Member
I have a hang on back fuge on my 55g. Its crawling with copepods. But as MaryG said make a stand for it. When I first got mine, I just put it on the back without a stand and my 55g sprung a huge leak so I would recommend building a stand.
 

cufishfan

Member
Mary and Gator- do either of you have pictures of the stand? I was thinking if putting up a small shelf (wall mounted brackets and plywood) to rest the fuge on. My stand is only as wide as the tank, so I can't build anything on that. Any tips?
 

cufishfan

Member
Thanks! That might take a little more work to build than my shelf, but it's probably sturdier and easier to move.
I just had a thought.. can I put my heater in the fuge? Or is that a terrible idea?
 
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