How to glue Acrylic for DIY tank?

joez

joez

Member
What have you guys used to bond acrylic together? HomeDepot told me to use this two part epoxy, but it doesn't hold worth crap. Would PVC Cement work well?
What could I readily buy at HD (or walmart for that matter...) to get the acrylic together. It's only 48"x12"x12"....so "super-extreme-maximum-strength" isn't needed...just what will work and be reliable.
 
pmauro

pmauro

Member
No you need to use acrylic solvent (glue) it actually melts the two panels together, you will need corner clamps and a hobby syringe to dispense the solvent. even pressure along the entire seam is critical. you can also use acrylic shavings mixed in solvent to make a thickened solvent to help fill in very small imprefections in the seams. You can find the solvent at some hobby shops or online.
 
joez

joez

Member
pmauro, thanks.
Unfortunally I don't have ANY hobby shops near here...closest is over an hour away. Is there another place I could get it? Doesn't PVC glue melt them? And last, could you please give a specific name by any chance? I feel kinda lost now that HD said they were "clueless" about it.
 
pmauro

pmauro

Member
I used a product called Ironweld. I got it at a hobby store but you can try on line. do a search for acrylic and you will get a few sites who sell the cement, just order it on line. it sounds like your best option. you may also want to check the phone book for glass shops some work with acrylic and also plastic manufacturers may have what you need
 
hellspawn2

hellspawn2

Member
Do a search on weldon or weld-on or something like that. I used that stuff to put my Calc reactor together. Its good stuff and easy to use.
Good luck
 
T

thomas712

Guest
This is the advice that was given to me when I was building a acrylic wet/dry.
True acrylic cement is methylene chloride and is a carcinogen. It is best applied by syringe with a long needle to facilitate corner adhering, etc. No tape, clamps or other "hold-together" supports are needed. Only an architect's triangle and "T" sqaure are reqired to align the sides to the bottom and/or any inserts you plan on including.
By wicking the cement, capilliary action allows it to travel the length of the joint insuring a water-tight seal.
The one big area ofter overlooked is the cut edge preparation before bonding. The saw action leaves a surface pitted and uneven. Due to the viscosity of the cement, (thin), these rough edges need attention before actual assembly. Then a propane blow torch set way, way low to sort-of flame polish the final mating surfaces.
There is a thicker viscosity cement out there that fills some imperfections when cementing, but not nessessary for this application, only on high pressure sensitive work.
Thomas.
 
joez

joez

Member

Originally posted by Hellspawn2
Do a search on weldon or weld-on or something like that. I used that stuff to put my Calc reactor together. Its good stuff and easy to use.
Good luck
They had something like that at HD, and I opened it and it seemed like elmer's glue. Certainly not a chemical that would melt plastic....called weld-on or similar. Wrong stuff?
Do you think you could find a link at HomeDepot.com for me?
Sorry for all my trouble...just want to get this right.
 
T

thomas712

Guest
The IPS Weld on solvent is very good stuff, My LFS uses it to build his wet/dry and acrylic work. Last time that I looked at ordering some company direct they had put a $100.00 min order limit, Sheezz. It can get somewhat expensive depending on size, or
fl. oz. ordered. Look in the phone book under acrylic and call them up and ask if any solvents are available through them. Check with your lfs if they make wet/drys or fuge's.
Here is a place that sells it on line
http://www.interstateplastics.com/meta/fmaccwel.htm
Thomas
 
joez

joez

Member
Thomas, thanks for the reply. I'll get it from there. What's the diff between the these numbers? Is #4 that much better than #3?
 
T

thomas712

Guest
If I recall corectly the lower the number the more watery the mix, with those low numbers you will need a syringe to apply. My LFS used IPS 16 and some thin nails to build his, as well as those long clamps. He sets it up with those long clamps, runs a bead down the seam tightens things up a little and starts to remove the nails and adjusting as he goes.
Thomas
I should add that he doesn't nail the acrylic together just places them between the seems so they do not touch until he wants them to.
The higher the number the thicker the solvant.
 
nyfisherman

nyfisherman

Member
RATE NOW I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM, I BOUGHT ALL THIS ACRYLIC AND TRIED TO ASSEMBLE IT WITH SOME CHEAP 2 PART EPOXY BOUGHT AT THE HD. IT DIDN' T HOLD FOR CRAP!!! AND NOW I GOT IT ALL OVER THE PLACE AND NEED TO SCRAP IT OFF BEFORE REASSEMBLY!! I DID SOME RESEARCH I GUESS PEOPLE USE WELD-ON #3,#4,#16,#40 THE DIFFERNCE IN THESE IS MOSTLY HOW FAST THEY SET. I THINK THERE MADE BY IPS? YOU CAN DO A SEARCH ONLINE AND FIND OUT MORE
 
joez

joez

Member
Yeah NY, I know exactly what you mean. HD people were pretty clueless (I went back today on it...), but then again I guess they don't deal with this much. For their applications, the epoxy is more than enough.
Thomas, you're information is great...the idea with the nails with help (ALOT!!!). I'll get #4 I think...we'll see how this works.
Thanks for all your help guys!
 
hellspawn2

hellspawn2

Member
Joez,
Im not in your area but dont you have some plastic companies around there? Thats where i found my weldon at. Also Thomas is right the lower the number the thinner the mix. To easiest way to decide on what to use is you need to know if the acrylic has a even cut. If the cut is a nice and even cut then use the weldon #1 or #2 and if its kind of a rough cut go with a higher number. Make sure that when u get the acrylic that you sand the edges with extremely fine sandpaper. You just want enough to smooth the surface out so you have a good seal and then use your glue. Hope that helps.
:D
 
joez

joez

Member
With the way I cut it, all of my "rough" edges are pointed up (except bottom peice, which doesn't matter anyway), so it's extremely smooth. I'll look into a plastic company first, because I really would like to get it done by friday so I have the weekend to work on the canopy.
HTH? More than you'd even know! :) :) :) :)
 
nyfisherman

nyfisherman

Member
I FOUND SOME WELD-ON #4 TODAY AT A LOCAL GLASS COMPANY, (also deal in alot of acylic) THEY CHARGED ME 10$ FOR A PINT OF IT AND 4$ FOR A SYRIENGE GREAT DEAL TRY AND GO THAT WAY YOU MIGHT GET LUCKY
 
joez

joez

Member
I'll try that. I found a place with it, but over an hour away. Luckily I have a free day tomorrow so I can go to multiple locations.
Unfortunally my table saw's band (connecting blade to motor) broke tonight...it's old and I doubt there will be a replacement at HD. Oh well...atleast I have enough wood cut to finish the tank, just not the canopy.
 
nyfisherman

nyfisherman

Member
I TRIED IT OUT AND THE STUFF WORKS GREAT IT, IT EVAPORATES KIND OF FAST THOUGH. I USED IT ON TWO SCRAP PIECES AND WITHIN 2 HOURS I COULDN'T PULL THEM APART. THE ONLY PROBLEM IS I HAD A LOT OF BUBBLES.
 
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