Ich Concerns

[Acortez08]

My main concern for this question is how to deal with Ich on a budget using my my current setup and also to see if I am going about things (comments on anything that looks wrong or is missing) the best way. I get all of my supplies and advice from a married couple of former marine biologists and Fish Store Owners who now sell fish/supplys from their house and do house calls.

Now for the setup:

- 5 year old Saltwater tank (never moved)
-Aqua Euro protein skimmer
-Turbotwist 36w UV Sterilizer in sump
- Hang off the back of the tank overflow box that deposits into a sump sock in the bottom cabinetry of the tanks canopy.
- Once a week add Powder Seachem Marine Buffer (I premix before adding)
-I test my own water once a week using a Plastic hydrometer , API 5 in 1 testing strips and API Ammonia test kit.
- I use tap water with continuum aquatics fraction dechlorinator, and Instant Ocean for water changes done once a month.
- Feed: Frozen cubed Sallys Saltwater Multi-pack, Sallys frozen cubed Mysis, and Sallys frozen cubed emerald entree
-No coral anymore
-More live rock it seems than water (not sure how much? Maybe 90+lbs?)
-Many blue leg hermits
-Many diff types of snails
-(2) Emeld crabs
-(2) Cleaner shrimp
-4 in. Chocolate Tang
-3 in. Starry Blenny
-2.5 in. Hippo Tang
-2 in. Banner Fish
- (2) Clown Fish both around 1.5 in.
-1.5 in Chromis

Problem/History:

I have probably had about 4 different outbreaks of Ick in 5 years. This most recent outbreak being number four. The marine biologist that I get my fish from do the quarantine and observation before I get them.

The method I have been using to treat the Ich was to pull out the infected fish into a 35-40 gallon quarantine tank and treat with copper power for 12 weeks to be safe. Simultaneously I would treat the tank, knowing that the parasites were probably in the tank as well, with Kordon ich attack but I would use a double dose which I was told is the only way that it will work effectively on my then reef tank. But, using this double dose for an extended period took a huge toll on all my live corals. Effectively hurting all of them and finally killing most before the Ich was finally gone. However, it did not hurt the invertebrates and did seem to work to eradicate the tank of the parasite. As a side note though this was a very very expensive measure.

Currently:

I added the Banner Fish listed above and a day after I added him I noticed one spot but eating and acting normal. I figured maybe from stress and would go away. This went on for two weeks and then it seemed to slowly look worse. I removed him from display into quarantine (where he is now) and am treating with Copper Power. I am now noticing the Hippo with 2 spots and Chocolate with one about 3 weeks after the Banner went into QT.

Questions:

-Comments on setup and maintenance
-What options do I have for Current situation with respect to Chocolate and Hippo Tangs?
-How many fish can I put into a 35g QT tank for 12 weeks to treat?
-What is the opinion on the effectiveness of Kordon Ich Attack?

Any help is greatly appreciated

Thanks!


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[jay0705]

Kordon wont kill the ich in your tank. Thats why u continue to have outbreaks. Leave the tank fallow for 6-8 wks

 

[lmforbis]

To get the ich out of your tank you have to take ALL the fish out and treat them in a separate tank and leave the tank fish less (fallow) for 72 days. This allows the parasite to die off. With out a fish host ich can't survive but you have to let what's in your tank fun through its life cycle. That will take care of ich in your current situation as long as you don't add anything to your tank. Any new fish need to be quarantined in a system you have control over. You can treat as a preventative measure or watch and treat if something shows up. If you treat with copper make sure you have a compatible test kit to monitor the levels.

As for the rest of it just some suggestions that will help with a healthier tank.

stop using tap water. You can buy RO water at Walmart for $0.37 per gallon at the self service water station most grocery stores have similar situations. When you use tap water the contaminants are getting concentrated over time which is not good for marine organisms.

Get some good test kits the strips are useless. Stay away from API. Salifert, SeaChem, and RedSea are all good. Don't add any buffers or other additives unless you have tested and know the system needs it.

Buy a refractometer you can get them for $30-50 on Amazon. The plastic hydrometers are not very accurate.

You also have to consider the stress on your fish. Stress makes fish more prone to disease. How big is the tank. Some fish, like tangs, need a lot of space and if they don't have it it causes stress. Also territorial issues cause stress.