Ich The Nemisis Extraordinaire

lionpaw38

Member
My take on this pain in the posterior. I have read tons of things to do to prevent and get rid if this crappy little parasite. I have also learned no matter what precautions you take eventually you will have it in your tank. I have always said that no matter how well you take care of yourself eventually you will get very sick and die....fact. The same with ich...no matter what, you will eventually have to deal with it.
I have had reef tanks for years which makes it a special challenge to deal with this scourge. I used to get all worked up and start with the salinity crap, the freshwater dip crap, the kick ich crap, the QT tank, and all the other miracle cures that that are out on the market. Before you know it you now have an inventory of crap envied by most fish stores and at a cost of four times what you paid for the fish.
I take this simple approach when I see the crap has snuck back into my tank....and I keep an inventory of 3 things...Fish Zoe ( Kent Marine ), Garlic Extract, and a bottle of metronidazole ( Fish Zole ). I slowly raise the tank temp up a degree an hour to 80 to 82 degrees ( this speeds up the life cycle). I take a 1/4 to half tablet of metronidazole and disolve it in the Zoe with a few drops of garlic extract. I then add whatever food I am feeding to the mix and let it sit until it becomes pasty after the moisture evaporates a little. I then feed it to the fish and I do this twice a day.
After about three days you will notice the ich start to disappear and it will usually all be gone by week three at which time you can start to bring the temp down to the normal range. You might see it come back a little but just do the feed combo without raising the temp. The fish will slowly build an immunity to it through you boosting their immune systems with the zoe and garlic extract.
This is my method only and it has never failed me yet nor have I lost a fish due to ich since implementing the regimen. I just felt the need to share this since I always felt so overwhelmed with everything that was thrown at me when I ask the question: I have ich and how do I get rid of it?"
 

richl

Member
I looked up the ingredients and it doesn't look like there's anything in there that actually kills the parasite. It looks like the idea is to boost the immunity of your fish so they can fight it off. I'm very new to this and the problem seems to happen with newly acquired fish that might be in compromised with the parasite when you purchase them. I recently started a QT and sure enough a new fish got sick after 3 weeks in QT. I'm glad it wasn't in the display tank. I'm wondering if your approach might be good when you first acquire the fish, so they don't get sick to begin with. Have you tried that or only after you see ich? Would the Zoe and Garlic be good prophylactically? I just feed my fish frozen mysis or brine w spirulina. Maybe I should try supplements in both the QT and display?
 

beth

Administrator
Staff member
I disagree that there isn't anything to prevent ich from entering the display. QT and treat appropriately in the QT will eliminate the problem 100%. Ok, if you want to say 99.9999%, but still.
 

lionpaw38

Member
I think the supplements are a good idea at any feeding which I do....and that would be correct on boosting their immune systems as a method of prevention. althought the metronidazole ( Fish Zole ) is an antibiotic that will kill the parasite.
Also its the .00000001 that will get you everytime
 

jemshores

Member
I too, use both Selcon and Garlic Xtreme with all foods going into my tank and can see the difference in my fishes colors, energy, and appetites. And I also believe in the temp. raising procedure for Ich. Had a small outbreak early on and raised the temp 1 degree a day to finally 85 and left it there for a week. My top is partly exposed and have great top and middle water flow. Parasite gone, never to return! Everybody and everything survived fine, no ill effects. I had read about the higher temps early on but all on the boards here push for hypo; an honestly wanted to try something else. So I definetly stand by that method, also adding the above vitamins helps with immunity too.
 

tdog7879

Member
Originally Posted by lionpaw38
http:///forum/post/2885957
I think the supplements are a good idea at any feeding which I do....and that would be correct on boosting their immune systems as a method of prevention. althought the metronidazole ( Fish Zole ) is an antibiotic that will kill the parasite.
Also its the .00000001 that will get you everytime

I too use the metronidazole and focus with vitamins and has also worked good for me!!!!!
 

al mc

Active Member
I do believe that you have all found methods that have worked to control an outbreak of Ich within your systems and have undoubtably saved many fish with your methods. However, you have the best chance of eliminating the parasite with either hyposalinity and copper and preventing the parasite by using a QT for anything that is to be placed into your DT.
Garlic....great appetite stimulant which helps to keep the calories coming into our fish that allows them to expend the needed energy to fight off the parasite. It has not, especially in the bottled form, ever been a proven immune stimulant in fish (where it is has been studied very little) or in mammals, where it has been studied more. If it has any immune stimulating ability it probably has to be freshly squeezed as the ingredient that has been linked to any theories of immune stimulation, allicin, degrades quickly (hours).
Metronidazole: Good antiprotozoan. I would use it if I did not have a QT tank to knock down an Ich outburst in a Fish only tank. While they all claim to be 'reef safe' I would be reluctant to put it into my reef systems.
 

kouma

Member
I hate ick with passion. I wish there is a way to make this parasite suffer unbearable pain before killing it. This parasite has resulted in many many beautiful fish deaths and wasted costs.
With regards to temperature treatment, the manager of Atlantis here in Dubai said it is the main method of treatment he uses. "By increasing the temperature gradually to 32C ick can effectively be killed in the main display tank, thus no need to remove LR, fish, fw dip, etc."
Could it be by fastening the ick cycle so much, ick will barely have time to find a host and thus dies?
 
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