Is this Ich? And how to treat....

[cmc3502]

I was treating my fish (one of the tomato clowns and my Rusty angel) in a QT tank last week until I had my Rusty angel die. See my other post last week, basically I had no water movement and possibly the toxins from the tomato clown killed the angel fish.... Soooo, I'm kinda against doing this again. I bought some garlic that I soaked their food in this evening and the temp is at 80. Basically the yellow tang and both tomato clown have this... Nobody is acting bad, their all eating well and swimming around with no signs of scraping rocks... What else can I do???
please help....

 

[lion_crazz]

Looks like ich to me. Hyposalinity on all fish in a quarantine tank is the way to go. Check out the disease message board for details on this.

 

[cmc3502]

by the way...its Quick Cure that I have for the QT tank

 

[seannmelly]

Originally Posted by cmc3502
by the way...its Quick Cure that I have for the QT tank
You need to perform hyposalinity in QT ASAP w/ a refractometer. Your fish are COVERED!! I hope you can save them!!!

 

[rbrockm1]

whats hyposalinity?

 

[cmc3502]

tell me if this setup will work....
10 gallon tank completly bare with water from my display tank... A few rocks that I wont be placing in the display tank EVER... and a powerhead to move the water around?? Then use a few drops of quick cure for 3 days straight/???? the 2 tomato clowns and yellow tang are the sick ones... the only other fish I have is the 6 line wrasse with no signs... should I get him out too???

 

[solarscar]

Don't mess with chemicals to treat your fish. Get a refractometer, put established water from display into your QT tank (10,20,20 gallon) over the course of 2-3 days remove the salt water and replace it with fresh RO water to bring the salinity down to 1.09. Chemicals can cause problems down the road, the fish will do fine with hypo salinity, inverts cannot tolarate the osmotic shock (ich is an invert) It will kill them during a certain stage in their life cycle. Leave them in hypo for 3 weeks after seeing the ich gone (you'll see the ich go away very quickly once in hypo) after that SLOWLY raise the salt level over about 5 days to display tank levels. You can't accuratly read the salt with a hydrometer. I got mine (refractometer) off the bay (

[hr]
) for like $40.00 shipped and all. Still use it to check normal display levels too. Your fishless tank will have ich, but since it won't have the fish in it, the ich die trying to find a host and will rid the display of ich after about 3 weeks, and ich cannot attach and live off of other inverts like starfish, crabs, ect. Its works very well. Good luck my friend.
I wanted to add that live rock and or sand in a hypo tank will suffer die off, use some dead rock for the fish to hide in and a bare bottom, preferably painting the bottom of the tank on the outside black to prevent confused fish from the reflectivity of a bare glass bottom (causes stress and disorients fish badly)

 

[beth]

That is ich. All fish exposed must now be treated. Hyposalinity is your best bet. Look at the info-posts in the FAQ Thread located at the top of the Disease Forum.

 

[auntkaren]

Yes, you should remove the wrasse too. I"m not familiar with your ick medicine and you seem determined to try it. Follow the directions on the bottle exactly. Meanwhile click the search button at the top of the screen and do a search on hyposalinity or hyposalinity cure. There are a couple of really good posts on what that is and how to do it. I hope all turns out good for you!

 

[lukeb321]

Start soaking your food in garlic juice. I agree hypo is great but I have beat ich twice with just garlic. Good luck.

 

[sepulatian]

Originally Posted by lukeb321
Start soaking your food in garlic juice. I agree hypo is great but I have beat ich twice with just garlic. Good luck.
Not with ich that bad!!!! Go to the disease and treatment forum.Here is an explanation of hyposalinity:
NOTE: This procedure can not be performed in an environment containing live rock, live sand or inverts [including crabs, snails, corals, etc.] If you have a strictly Fish-Only setup, then the treatment can be done within the display, otherwise, you will need to treat infected fish in a quarantine/hospital tank.
You will need: Refractometer or a glass hydrometer calibrated to tank temperatures, pH buffers, a tank or quarantine area for the infected fish that is adequately filtered.
Hyposalinity is a procedure involving lowering the salinity from normal tank levels to 14 ppt (1.009 Specific Gravity) over the course of 48 hours. This is done by doing a series of small water changes using fresh dechlorinated water. During the procedure, pH must be closely monitored as pH tends to drop as water become less saline. Fish are maintained in hyposaline conditions for three weeks after all symptoms are gone. Again, accurate measuring is essential, and the standard swing arm hydrometers are not going to work. A refractometer or large glass lab grade hydrometer calibrated to tank temperatures is needed. Once the fish have been asymptotic for three weeks, the salinity is then raised back to display tank levels over the course of a week. Fish can not tolerate rapid increases in salinity. Leave the fish in quarantine at display tank levels for another week.
Your display will now have been fishless for at least four weeks, sufficient time to allow the parasite’s life cycle to be interrupted. ****** is an obligate parasite that requires a fish host. No fish=No host=No parasite. Ich is a fish-only parasite, it will not affect inverts.
Continue to monitor pH daily during the process and be prepared with buffers to address any pH problems. Also keep the water clean through proper filtration.